Bob Smith Industries - BSI-203H BSI-203 Mid-Cure Epoxy (4.5 oz. Combined), Light Amber
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It took 30 minutes for no fingerprints to appear. It was still cheesy. I let the pieces dry completely overnight.
Epoxy can adhere to almost any surface, including aluminum. However, because metals change shape with temperature, it may not stay in place for long. As a result, the official response is, "it depends."
"MID-" said the manufacturer. CURE is the most adaptable epoxy we offer.
No, it's not going to work. It will necessitate the use of a splint in some form. So, if you find a tube that fits over each end of the broken rod and use glue to keep the broken ends in the tube, it should work. Alternatively, a real splint could be lashed to the rod and held in place with glue. You won't be able to get the support you need with just glue.
Selected User Reviews For Bob Smith Industries - BSI-203H BSI-203 Mid-Cure Epoxy (4.5 oz. Combined), Light Amber
This epoxy has a good performance. It sticks, sets hard and strong, and accomplishes the task at hand. It's convenient that it comes in two bottles, each with its own cap. If you close everything up tight, this product will last for a long time even if you use it frequently. This is a huge improvement over the split-tube epoxy from the hardware store. br>br>Can you tell me why I took a star away? I'm guessing I'll have 15 minutes to work on this. This isn't the case, however. After about 6 minutes, the product begins to warm up. That's a signal that the clock is ticking. It's quite warm and starting to clump by 7 minutes, and it's like hard rubber by 8 minutes, so you're done. br>br>The first time I tried this product, I ended up wasting half of what I had squeezed out because of this issue. Now I understand. Keep a close eye on the clock and only make as much as you know you'll be able to use in the next 8 minutes or so. You can always make more later if you need it. br>br>Excellent information. br>br> It's just important to be aware of what you're getting into. Next time, I'll go with the slow cure.
I'd like to caution others about the epoxy's working time, which is most definitely NOT 15 minutes, as others have stated. As others have mentioned, I mixed in a graduated cup and felt the cup warm up in less than a minute. I wasn't holding it because I didn't want my hand to heat it up any more, but it got hot and thickened in under two minutes. I poured it onto a card that was placed on a cool granite counter to allow the heat to dissipate and extend the working time; however, this epoxy had begun to gel in less than five minutes, indicating that time was running out. br>br>To glue a mitered wooden frame with a veneered panel and biscuits in the miters, I needed more time. The manufacturer recommended this epoxy for use with wood, so I bought it. It's effectively useless for me because it'll gel long before I'm able to coat everything with adhesive, position it, and clamp it. br>br>I'm going to give the System Three T- a shot. I'll use 88 epoxy to fill knots and other imperfections because it has at least 30 minutes of working time, which others have confirmed. This isn't a 15-minute epoxy, so keep that in mind. It's a good thing I put it through its paces first.
It says exactly what it means. It's pretty much what the label says. Working time is longer than the quick set (5 minutes) version but shorter than the slow cure (30 minutes). After curing, it's much more malleable than either of them. It also smells a lot worse than either of them. I usually go with the slow cure, but I keep bottles of all three in the shop for different purposes. When working with thin fiberglass surfaces that are likely to flex, this mid cure option is chosen because it appears to work best in that situation. When using a syringe to apply it, I've learned not to mix more than 20ccs total because the working time isn't long enough to mix, suck into the syringe, and then deploy it before it becomes ineffective. But, unlike the fast cure, this one allows you to use a syringe.
This was used to repair and reinforce a small section of a Vespa scooter's handlebar casing. a quarter-pound of quarter-pound of quarter-pound of quarter-pound of quarter The bottom of the back half of the casing had broken off, taking with it a hole through which a screw held the two halves of the casing together. One of the chunks had been saved, but the other had vanished. I cleaned and sanded the area after supergluing the chunk I had to the casing to keep it in place temporarily. Then, to reinforce the glued chunk and rebuild the missing chunk, I spread four layers of fiberglass cloth wetted out with epoxy across the chunk, the hole, and the intact part of the casing. I used a small batch of epoxy to fill in the gaps after that had started to cure. I let it all cure overnight before using a Dremel tool to remove the excess and re-drilling the hole. The epoxy stuck well to the sanded plastic, and the cure time was long enough that I didn't have to panic about the job. The longer cure epoxy is a little more durable, less rubbery, and allows for more mixing time than the quick cure epoxy.
Repairing things that 'can't' be fixed has always been a favorite pastime of mine. Epoxy has long been a useful tool in this regard. My old tubes of Loctite (quick epoxy) were getting old, and I had left them in a hot garage for far too long. It started to get gummy and didn't flow smoothly before I got it mixed. It was still a little tacky the next day. This stuff gave me time to work on it and made it difficult to get up the next morning. And before it became too gummy, I had time to clean the nozzles and replace the inner caps. Then I put them in the freezer, where I expect they will last for years. edit: To clarify the headline, if I hadn't been sequestered, I would have gone to Big Orange and purchased more Loctite instead of this superior product.
This product was purchased to add silicon carbide powder to my firearm's grip, and it performed as expected. For this application, it appears that this product is a standard epoxy. It has a long enough cure time for the job, and it holds the grits very well once cured. When it comes to the mixing ratio, it appears to be forgiving. I measured the volume using the markings on the bottle, which worked out perfectly.
It takes about 10 minutes to harden before it becomes difficult to work with, and 15 minutes to solidify. It comes with the usual epoxy safety warnings. The Compression- Tube type is a pain because you can never get the last drop out of it, but that's how things are. If at all possible, I would recommend 15 minute epoxy over 5 minute epoxy. With 5 minute epoxy, you have such a small margin for error.
If I used the product with a piece of fiberglass, I would normally like it. I tried to glue those two plastic pieces together but they came apart, so I used regular all-purpose glue instead, which worked better. I'll probably use it again, but this time with a piece of fiberglass; otherwise, and depending on the use, I'd probably still buy some, but not for the purpose for which I purchased it.
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