Leviton AFTR1-E 15-Amp, 120-Volt SmartlockPro Outlet Branch Circuit Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) Receptacle, Wallplate Included, Black
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No buzz or hum has ever come from my installations. Please direct your inquiry to Leviton's Customer Service department.
I'm sorry you're getting conflicting responses here. I'll respond by citing Article 406 of the 2014 NEC (National Electrical Code). "If arc- An arc-proof device is required to interrupt the fault circuit. It is necessary to install a fault circuit interrupter. Because these devices don't need a grounding conductor, they can be used in circuits that don't have one. "br>Not only can an AFCI be used on a non-electrical device, but it can also be used on a non-electrical device. It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for use on a non-ground circuit. because a grounded circuit is more likely to cause a fire than an unground circuit.
Arcing in wiring and receptacles can cause fires, which can be prevented with this product. It is not equipped with GFCI or surge protection. Using this with a GFCI or a whole-house surge protector should not be a problem. Read the page's product description; it explains what an AFCI is. You can also purchase an AFCI circuit breaker. The circuit breaker will protect the entire circuit, but in order for the circuit to be protected, the receptacle must be the first device on the circuit. Any devices in the circuit between the breaker and the AFCI receptacle are unprotected. The same is true for a GFCI receptacle location. In a circuit, an AFCI is only required for the first receptacle. I suppose the simple answer is yes; they can coexist without interfering with one another's functions.
The AFTR1 is described on Leviton's website as "providing feed-forward capability." It is capable of detecting downstream arc-faults through protection. parallel and series faults, as well as upstream series arc-faults faults. " As a result, any outlets (or whatever is plugged into them, as I understand it) that follow will have both series and parallel protection, i.e. This afci outlet is downstream of. Upstream of it, however, only series protection is provided, i.e. the circuit that is connected to the afci outlet before it. This afci outlet will, I assume, be installed first in a series of outlets on this circuit. The only thing upstream would be the line to the load center/breaker box, and parallel arcs would (as far as I can tell) not be an issue in that section of the circuit. Because I'm not an electrician, you should check with Leviton or a licensed electrician before relying on my non-expert opinion. response that is professional
Selected User Reviews For Leviton AFTR1-E 15-Amp, 120-Volt SmartlockPro Outlet Branch Circuit Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) Receptacle, Wallplate Included, Black
I bought one more out of curiosity than anything else, and because I'm an electrical engineer who is fascinated by technology. I own a house that was built before these things were invented, and I wanted to make sure that the wiring, as well as some of my devices and extension cords, were all safe. Because it appears that all of the other reviewers have harped on the importance and necessity of these, I'll defer to their opinions on that. br>br>I'm a high-energy person. So, naturally, one of the first things I did with this receptacle was to wire it up and plug it into my Kill-A-Watt. I'm going to use a watt meter to see if this thing runs on its own power. It utilizes 0 to my surprise. When it is actively protecting the circuit (nothing plugged in - no power), it consumes 7 Watts continuously. only the receptacle), and it still pulls zero. When tripped, the power consumption is only 5 watts. Yes, it's a pittance, but hey, every penny counts, and I suppose it's a penny well spent if it saves your house. br>br>Unlike some of the first AFCIs built, it appears that this AFCI is not prone to nuisance tripping. However, I still need to conduct long-term testing. So far, nothing I've plugged in has caused it to trip, which I suppose is a good thing. br>br>Like the original GFCIs, this receptacle is large and bulky, taking up a lot of space in the electrical box before the newer slim design was introduced.
As long as you get what you ordered, the product appears to be acceptable. Amazon Warehouse deals should be avoided if at all possible. Five of the twelve orders had to be returned, and they were spread out over several orders. After discovering that they had sent me the correct box, but with various other brands of GFCI outlets instead of AFCI outlets inside, I requested a mix of 20 and 15 amp. Apart from being GFCI rather than AFCI, one of these was also widely used. Some of them were also vulnerable to tampering. Also, with the exception of one, all of the other units I received from Amazon Warehouse were the "AFCI" version rather than the "AFCI 2. " 0" as depicted in the title. If Amazon inspects these before selling them to us, the person doing so is unfortunately unqualified. So far, they've accepted the returns, but that doesn't compensate for the lost time. br>br>In addition, some of the Amazon Warehouse units are nearly impossible to plug anything into; tamper-resistant receptacles are much more difficult to tamper with. The product includes bold blue paper stickers that can be used to identify other receptacles on the branch. The little white labels that came with Legrand receptacles I've used don't appear to be as durable or as attractive.
If you've come to this page to buy this product, you're already familiar with what AFCI is and what it does. It's great for peace of mind, especially since arc fires are the most common type of electrical fire. br>It's also a great way to meet the code if you're extending or running a new circuit and your panel doesn't have AFCI breakers. This receptacle is a great alternative to the more expensive AFCI breaker, and it may be your only option if your panel is old and AFCI breakers aren't available. br>In my case, it's a little different: They DO make AFCI breakers for my panel (GE), but GE's AFCIs are notorious for nuisance tripping when used in conjunction with high loads (space heaters) or motor loads (vacuums). I decided to use a regular breaker and an AFCI receptacle because I was tired of the annoying tripping. br>I haven't had any problems with this receptacle yet. br>However, be cautious: Be extremely cautious when your AFCI trips unless you can tie it to something very specific (like running a vacuum). If it occurs frequently and for no apparent reason, contact an electrician immediately, as the AFCI is most likely doing its job and detecting an arc somewhere. br>br>This is NOT an AFCI "combination. " Series and parallel arcs are used in combination devices. Non- Only parallel arcs are used in combination ones like this receptacle. However, this isn't a major issue. br>According to what I've read, parallel arcs pose a much greater threat, accounting for a much higher percentage of fires, so I'm fine with not having a combination device. br>And even if you don't believe in AFCI, you're still required to have any electrical work you've done permitted and inspected, or your insurance claim may be denied. Yes, there are some AFCI skeptics, which I think is as ridiculous as debating gravity. What are the code requirements, then? br>br> br>According to NEC 210 for the years 2011 and 2014. 12, if you're installing a new circuit or extending an existing one in most of the living areas, you should use an AFCI to protect it; A combination AFCI breaker or a non-contact AFCI breaker can be used. As the first receptacle on the circuit, install a combination AFCI receptacle. When extending an existing circuit, all you have to do is replace the first receptacle with an AFCI receptacle. br>You can do the same thing when installing a new circuit, except the "home run," or the run from the breaker to the first receptacle, must be armored cable (MC or AC/BX), and the first box must be metal (which is a given anyway if you're using metal-clad receptacles). cable with a jacket). br>The 2014 code relaxed the requirement, stating that you don't need to add AFCI if you're extending an existing circuit by less than 6 feet. Now for the actual product: br>br> Yes, it's a bit of a hunk. The smaller new GFCIs that take up less space in the junction box have spoiled me. br>It's the same size as the old one. GFCI's in schools The wires needed to be meticulously planned. br>Here's how I went about wiring it: br>Because this was a new circuit, I needed to connect the service panel to the first box with an MC cable. br>I connected the ground wires with pigtails; I screwed a 6" piece of ground wire to the box's grounding terminal. I've attached the supply cable's ground wire, the load cable's ground for the circuits downstream, and a 6" piece of ground wire to the receptacle's ground terminal to that wire. I twisted all four wires together, covered them with a wirenut, and stuffed them all the way to the back of the box with the handle of an open slip joint pliers. Following that, I connected the supply (line) cable's hot (black) and neutral (white) wires to the receptacle's Line terminals. The black is placed beneath the yellow (gold-colored). white) screw, colored) screw under the gleam of chrome br>I've connected the load (downstream receptacles) to the Load terminals with the white and black wires. br>To cover the exposed screws, I wrapped a few windings of tape around the receptacle. br>As I pushed the receptacle into the box, I bent the black and white wires around the back of the receptacle, causing them to fold inward. br>I screwed everything in place, flipped the breaker, and it worked. br>The test buttons can be used in a clever way: Reset is an electromechanical device rather than a strictly mechanical one. It will re-enter if you hold it in for a few seconds. engage. So, here's a quick rundown of my current thoughts: br>br> br>Excellent if your panel is old and you want to comply with the code, or if you just want to sleep better at night. Yes, it's bulky, so you'll have to fiddle with the wires, especially if you're trying to fit it into an existing box.
It's long past time for Arc Fault Outlet Branch Circuit Protectors to become more widely available. I'm hoping these are more reliable than the original AFCI breakers, which had short lifespans and caused a lot of "nuisance trips. " The price of these AFCI receptacles is also exorbitant. br>NOTE: THIS PAGE HAS BEEN UPDATED. 01/2021- Many AFCI/GFCI receptacles and GFCI/AFCI breakers have been installed. Good reliability (80%) and satisfactory performance can be reported. These tools have aided in the detection of faulty wiring and appliances that are arching. You seem to get 9 out of 10 that work fine, and once you've replaced the troublesome ones, you've got consistency. The market has found a new equilibrium. Now I have faith in the devices' dependability.
When I'm changing or adding circuits, I always use these. I've had no false trips, and installing them with the back wire option is simple. The NEC now requires that everything be tamper-proof. Near water sources and in my basement, I've used combination AFCI/GFCI units. Insurance at a low cost.
I bought three of these and have had a lot of false tripping issues with them. I was concerned that I was picking up on my own malfunctioning equipment. I replaced the connected equipment with one of two other AFCI devices every time a device tripped, and I eventually concluded that the tripping was random. It's cutting-edge technology, but the devices appear to be settling down over time (about 6 months), and false trips are becoming less frequent.
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