Pluggable LED Wire Connectors, TYUMEN 24pcs 2 Pin 2 Way Universal Compact Wire Terminals, No Wire-Stripping Required, Toolless Spring Wire Connectors, Quick Splice Wire Wiring Connector for AWG 20-24
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Selected User Reviews For Pluggable LED Wire Connectors, TYUMEN 24pcs 2 Pin 2 Way Universal Compact Wire Terminals, No Wire-Stripping Required, Toolless Spring Wire Connectors, Quick Splice Wire Wiring Connector for AWG 20-24
In the end, I didn't find them useful for the purpose for which they were purchased. I was able to use them several months later. To understand why, consider these factors The AWG is In any case, they cannot be used outside of a small gauge set. This connector was not compatible with my 20AWG speaker wire, and I think the gauge supported is a little lighter (+1AWG) It is also true that most of the wire you buy on amazon will be a lighter gauge (+2AWG) than the wires listed, so if you buy everything here, it should work fine.
INSULATION In order to make this jacket thin, the wire must be very Those who claim that you can cut away some of the plastic to solve this claim claim that then the lid won't pin properly and will not Included in the maximum diameter of inserted cables is their insulation, which is about 2 mm. Approximately 15mm thick. VERIFICATION OF RESULTS/SAFETY Having said that, you probably won't know how well the connection goes together after the job is done if you snap the mouth shut with channellock pliers (to get the size of the mouth right). There is a small contact area, so as others have noted it may not be fire safe over a couple amps. Although I do not see the 10A spec others have cited, I would not trust it. It also appears there is no actual hinge, just a plastic flap between the jaws, so if you flex the jaws open and closed a few times, the flap is likely to fall The convenience of Using them for quick-reaction time is what they are really good at. My 24 turned out to be handy at the end of a few hours of stripping, crimping, and other tedious work. I snapped these things after an hour of stripping, crimping, and other work on my project. All I had to do was add wire ends of 5AWG. Making sure that the right tool was selected for forcing them shut was key. Although I like that they are hermaphrodite and preserve polarity, their tendency to close themselves when inserted was inconvenient. I did not mangle the connector, so I had to work around that.
Because I do this stuff all the time, I was able to figure out how to connect the parts. I spent more than two hours stripping wire to different lengths to figure out how what, where I should screw the connector in. The prongs in the shells would not make electrical contact when they were assembled, so I couldn't get them far enough into the shell to make contact. This transaction does not involve any There is no clear indication of the correct assembly. It's just too difficult for even the most experienced technician to handle. Their services were not of interest to The problem is that I might not be competent. In the end, I ran out of connectors without making even a single connection. It will be easier for me to just solder and shrink the warp compared to a.
It was unnecessary to buy these at such a cheap price. As they are smaller and required more space, I thought I would try these instead, rather than barrel connectors. I should have taken my instincts and trusted them rather than going with my original idea. Currently, these connectors are only able to make a positive connection 10% of the time. If I partially stripped and soldered the wires (which you should not need to do), I could increase the success rate to 50%. As long as the wire was within the specifications of the connectors, I used 22 AWG wire. Additionally, even when they worked, it was sometimes difficult to connect them because the pins inside the connector would chip, The experience has been In the event that you need to strip them and solder wires in order to make them work, just buy high-quality barrel connectors and solder them to the led strips. Spend less time and energy on these, and save yourself from stress and frustration.
Most of the time I use these to install Two points in the connector lock into the sheath of the wire and cut into it securely. In any case, 10a would be hugely overestimated. It wouldn't be a good idea to trust them with more than 1A (maybe 3A for a In reality, the pins only make contact with a small amount of surface area. It is recommended that you do not go over 1 extra strip length with these for their intended use with LED strips. Still, I like them, just keep in mind they have limitations at the moment.
Although they may be useful for certain things, they cannot be used on wires larger than about two inches long. This type of wire cannot be used with regular gauge car electrical wires. This seemed like a good idea when I first heard about it, but I found them to be You can use doorbell wires for it, but that's about all it can do.
hit or miss when attached to the wire. I had to go through two phases to get it to work There were three attempts to make contact before a proper contact was established. Connecting the two ends was a piece of cake once the ends had been pierced. The pierce is made out of wire, and the mechanism is plastic. The only reason I recommend this is if you are willing to go through the 2-part process If you try to splice two wires, you will have to pay a fee of $3.
It works and they are fine. It is painful to set the wire crimp and there is no positive response when the wire is Fragile are the trimmings on the shroud and the hinge.
Although these devices are simple to install, they do not seem to be very On my boat, I made use of them to connect new LED strings, but I need to adjust the connections every now and then because the connections lose contact. I have 5 pairs connected, and 3 give me problems intermittently.