ROBERTSON 3P20116 eBallast, Instant Start, NPF, 1 or 2 Lamp F32T8, 120Vac, 60 Hz, Model ISU232T8120 BA (Replaces Robertson 3P20003, Model ISU232T8120 /B)
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Twisted together are the two wires that come from each lamp socket. One of the new ballast's blue wires is connected to the lamp socket where the old ballast's blue wire was. The new ballast's other blue wire connects to the lamp socket where the old ballast's red wire was previously connected. The new ballast's red wire is connected to the two lamp sockets where the old ballast's yellow wire was connected. Please refer to the ISU232T8120 label for a wiring diagram.
No, I'm fairly certain it isn't, but I'd have to check the ballast's label to be certain. br>br>Check the label on your old ballast to see if it's Instant Start or Rapid Start. If it says Instant Start, stick with it. br>br>On the top of the new ballast, there should be a label that says which bulbs it works with.
T12 tubes are most commonly used in 40 watt tubes. This ballast is capable of driving 1 or 2 4 ft. of cable. T8 tubes with a power rating of 32 watts As a result, the answer to your question is a resounding NO.
Selected User Reviews For ROBERTSON 3P20116 eBallast, Instant Start, NPF, 1 or 2 Lamp F32T8, 120Vac, 60 Hz, Model ISU232T8120 BA (Replaces Robertson 3P20003, Model ISU232T8120 /B)
I purchased Feit LED tubes from Costco, which were direct fluorescent tube replacements. They did work, but after a while, they would black out, which I traced to the ballast in those fixtures. Because that ballast was not designed for low-wattage tubes, the fixtures would shut down after an hour or so due to thermal protection. To use LEDs in the fixtures, I found that replacing the ballast was a better option than purchasing new LED tubes and removing the offending ballast. The replacement went smoothly, and the Feit tubes work with the Robertson ballast, which is compatible with low-wattage fluorescent tubes down to 17 watts. Despite the fact that the Feit tubes are 14 watts, I believe the ballast will be adequate because the wattage is only slightly lower.
This is what I used to replace my buzzing T12 ballast, and it worked perfectly! If the wiring looks different when replacing a T12 with a T8, it can be a little unnerving for those who aren't used to it. I was concerned, to be sure. I found the answer I was looking for with a quick Google search. On one side of my T12 ballast, there were two blue and two red wires going to each bulb, and on the other side, there were two yellow wires going to both bulbs. The trick was to combine the two blue wires from the fixture with one blue wire from this ballast, the two red wires with the other blue wire from the ballast, and the two yellow wires with the other red wire from the ballast; the black and white for power were identical, so there was no trick there. For your convenience, I've included a photo of the old T12 ballast and its wiring scheme.
The first few ballasts I bought (from reputable suppliers) were a bit of a learning curve. When they were turned on, they caused terrible FM radio interference throughout the house. They appeared to be on their way back- despite my efforts to ensure they had excellent grounds, the interference was feeding into the wiring I didn't order the Robertson ballasts at first because I wasn't familiar with the brand, but boy was I wrong. I clenched my teeth when I turned on the radio after the first Robertson ballast was installed, expecting horrendous static, but there was none. There is no difference at all. The lights were perfectly turned on, and the radio was clear as a bell. They work flawlessly, have no interference, and are less expensive than the alternatives. You won't be sorry if you get these first.
I try to avoid putting things in the trash. I received some LED bulbs through the Vine program that were incompatible with my low-cost light fixtures. After doing some research, I decided to buy three light fixtures for $2 from Habitat for Humanity. 66 each. br>They appeared to be brand new, but they were actually very inexpensive fixtures. One was working and buzzing loudly, while the other two were dead on arrival. It's not a big deal; the funds were donated to a worthwhile cause. I discovered these while searching on Amazon. I'm in a fantastic place! I rigged one up with jumper wires, and it works with both 14 and 17 watt bulbs, lights up quickly, and is completely silent. I ordered a few more to replace all of my t12 fixtures with t8 fixtures. Simply remove the fixture, replace the ballast, and POW! You've got a new light in your shop! These are my favorite kinds of items. Bulbs and ballast!br>If you enjoy tinkering with things and improving them, the Amazon bulbs and ballast can help you update your lighting needs on a budget. Under the center cover, the ballast is a snug fit. The ballast was attached to the fixture with pop rivets. The following two conversions took about 10 minutes each after the first. You're done after 4 rivets and 5 wire nuts!.
So far, everything has gone well. I bought a few of these so that I could use Philips LED bulbs in my 4' fixtures. Because the LED bulbs I bought would not work with the older magnetic ballast, I removed it from my fixtures. Philips LED lamps performed flawlessly after these electronic ballasts were installed. br>br>Switching over the ballasts took about 15 minutes per fixture, and the ballasts come with a diagram showing how they should be wired. I still have about 12 more fixtures in my basement that I plan to convert to LED, and I'll need more of these ballasts to finish the job. br>br>Recent changes: br>br> One of the ballasts has failed after four months of use. I'm hoping this isn't a precursor to something worse.
These were purchased to replace a set of 705- P ballasts that were a pain to work with because they were so loud. Although installation was simple, it was not a one-step process. There was only one transformation. I flipped on the switch after they were installed and was relieved to find that they worked. However, once I turned them off, they would not turn back on unless I manually disconnected and reconnected one of the two bulbs. Even a few minutes of waiting did not solve the problem. This problem can be found in both ballasts. I contacted the seller for assistance, but given that the problem occurs in both, it is most likely a product defect. br>br>The bulbs are FEIT Electric T8 LED tubes that are 48 inches long and consume 14 watts, which I purchased from Costco.
1/2": After upgrading to T8 (1") bulbs, I discovered that the flicker was caused by the ballast. After purchasing these ballasts to replace the original ballasts, I discovered that the original ballasts had different wiring than the Robertson ballast. After a few minutes of review, I was able to correctly install the ballast, and the flicker was gone. These are extremely quiet and perform admirably. Installation was simple once the wiring had been determined.
A unit. It took about an hour to put this together. It took the place of a HomeStar (Triad) B232I120RES-B232I120RES-B232I120RES-B232I120RES-B232 A unit. I've got two of the two-piece sets. bulb Fluorescent lights (1 of which is a ProLume Eco-Friendly bulb) The other is a Halco 32 watt 48" T8 Bi-Color Shield F32T8/741 (32W 4100K). In my garage, I have Pin Base 6500K) lighting. Both will be powered by this ballast. The Black, White, Blue, Blue, Blue, Red leads on the HomeStar units were all the same. The new Robertson ballast had the exact same length as the old one. I was able to complete this task quickly using wire cutters, a stripper, simple twist electrical connectors, and wire straps (remember to turn off power at the fuse panel). The HomeStars were on the air for a total of 15 years. I'm not sure how these will turn out, but I'm pleased with the outcome. The new 6500K bulbs are a little brighter, but they're better for my garage (which requires more light).
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