M-D Building Products, Black 3749 Garage Door Bottom Rubber, 16 Feet
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This sealer came in a roll, which I purchased. It can be tailored to fit your needs. I made the mistake of attaching it to the first door all the way across and then cutting it. I was six inches short when I attached the rest to the second door.br>I should have cut it in half and then attached each piece to both ends of each door, stretching it to fit. Then secure the second doo with nails or staples every foot or so along the bottom of the door. It will get tangled in the molding if you get too close to the edges! br>I hope this has been of assistance.br>cd
You could use small sheetmetal screws to attach the rubber directly to the door underside, or you could use sheetmetal screws to attach a thin wood slat to the door underside and then use small nails or screws to attach the rubber.
Depends . What's the best way for the rats to get into your garage? As long as your door is completely shut, it will seal the door and the floor. It won't seal the sides, or any other areas on the sides, for example. You'll also need to make sure everything is sealed.
Mine was designed to fit a 16' garage door. However, despite the fact that the description stated that nails should be included, they were not included.
Selected User Reviews For M-D Building Products, Black 3749 Garage Door Bottom Rubber, 16 Feet
There is a space beneath my garage door. Dust and fallen leaves would constantly sift in, which was inconvenient, so I purchased this rubber seal. It effectively closes the gap. Take a look at the images below. It comes with two nail bags. I only needed half the length, so one bag of ten nails was sufficient. A seal can be nailed to the bottom of the container. Because my garage door is roughly 43 inches wide, I simply nailed every 5 inches. It's worth noting that my garage door is entirely made of wood. If yours is made of a different material, you should probably go with the bottom seal.
These are great replacements for dry rotted, worn seals. Clean the bottom of the garage door, scrape away any loose paint, and then reseal the door with exterior paint before installing the new seal. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: NEW NAILS SHOULD NOT BE HAMMERED OVER THE NEW SEAL THICKNESS. Simply tighten them to allow the new seal to adjust uniformly. When new nails are hammered in too hard, they raise/stretch parts of the seal, allowing small critters and bugs to pass through when the door is closed. To allow for flexibility, I had to loosen a few nails. After that, I sealed the door really well.
What I got was a loose roll of rubber (no plastic wrap, just thrown in the shipping box), which looked nothing like the photos. The rubber's cross section is different, which is the most important feature. It's made of a very thin, flimsy material. There were no nails included. Because my inquiry with the seller had gone unanswered for more than two weeks, I submitted a return request, and was sent a return label along with a return shipping label that required payment. Given that I had already paid for the product's shipping, the seller had sent me the incorrect product and had failed to respond to my inquiry after two weeks, and the return shipping is nearly as much as the product's cost, I decided to file a claim with Amazon.
Because I just installed them, I can't speak to their durability. Because my previous replacements lacked those washers around old tacks, removing old nails was a nightmare. The washers around these tacks are particularly appealing to me. I hope this information is useful.
I should have read the reviews before purchasing because it is made of cheap foam garbage. If it lasts a year, I'll be surprised. I returned it to you. br>.
Spend your money on the threshold track that is mounted on the floor. I had replaced the bottom door seal (I recommend leaving 2 inches of overhang if possible because the bottom seal shrinks about 2 inches per year). So the new seal on the door didn't work, so I bought this as a backup seal, but it didn't work either. During the heavy rains, I experienced a lot of flooding - as if it were a pond br>br>I decided to give something else a shot, so I bought Auto Care Products 18-Pack. Tsunami Seal Garage Door Threshold Seal Kit (Feet Tsunami Seal Garage Door Threshold Seal Kit) via the H. It was less expensive by $30 - After all, nothing else seemed to be working. WOW, what a difference. Now I have a garage where I don't have to go swimming after a rainstorm.
PROS: The cost is extremely low. is actually quite wide (as other reviews have noted)br>br>CONS: If this is your only weather strip for the bottom of your garage door, it will provide little to no depth, allowing water, wind, dirt, bugs, and critters to enter. Unless your garage floor is exceptionally level and your garage door is closed with a downward force, There will be gaps if there is a sustained force (which is unlikely). br>br>The strip is made of a rubber-like material that feels almost spongy to the touch. Because the nails would rip through the rubber "like strip," the supplied nails do not look like the picture; instead, they come with a black plastic type washer. It's important to note that these days, almost all garage door bottoms are metal. As a result, the nail is no longer functional. br>br>I bought this not to replace my current weather strip, but rather to use a small portion of it as a CHEAP patch. My garage has a single door and can accommodate two cars. My weather strip is short on both ends, and it has been that way since the previous owner sold the house to me. br>br>I am currently residing in the state of Florida. My wife yelled at me the other day - Our garage had a snake in it! In Florida, snakes are everywhere; this one, like the majority, was a harmless garter snake, but it's still not something you want to see. Even in a garage, it's possible to be creative. So I got this as a quick and cheap fix. br>br>I shortened it to fit my gap. I tried securing it to the door's bottom. I started with a screw that was already in the area that needed to be patched. My first attempt ripped right through the strip, so I quickly realized I needed a washer. My next issue was that I needed to drill a starter hole in the bottom of the thick metal door plate. My 18V battery-powered drill (or perhaps the drill bit attached to it) was not up to the task. I barely made a mark on the door after drilling for more than 5 minutes with a lot of force. br>br>My next thought was to glue the piece to the bottom of the door in some way. I tried everything I could think of. Double-sided heavy-duty mounting tape, a tube of Crazy Glue, and even Mighty Putty, which is meant to be used on rubber. This rubber "like" strip will not allow anything to stick to it. So I simply cut three pieces to length on each end, stacked them on top of each other, and placed them on the floor where the gap was. The door was shut. On Monday, I'll simply hire a garage door company to replace the entire system. br>br>If it weren't for the low price, I would have given it a lower rating. MAY BE USED BY A FEW SELECTIVE PEOPLE.
The seals on my three 9-foot wooden garage doors were 20 years old when I bought them. I purchased three 16-foot seals to replace my old ones because it was a simple way to get extra nails (and a spare seal) at a low cost, and my wife and I installed them without difficulty in about 20 minutes per door. They're a gentle, non-abrasive material. My garage's concrete base is sealed with porous rubber. We installed everything according to the instructions, and the water runs right off the outside lip. It's simple to endorse this product.
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