Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2

This was purchased to replace an older one on which the button had become stuck. I have a Genie ISD 1000 and it works flawlessly. A picture of the old and new ones, as well as the back of the old one, is attached. Before I installed the new one, I forgot to take a picture of the back.

Autumn Marshall

| Jun 10, 2021

"Thank you, thank you!" my wife exclaimed as she pressed the button for the first time. "Of course, why did you wait so long to replace the old one if it was so simple to do?" " "Umm, because I was hoping for a price reduction?" " or "It appeared to be a lot more difficult to do, and I just hadn't found the time on my Honey-Do list. " Anyway, now that this is installed and completed, my wife thanks me every time she uses it, rather than cursing the old button every time it didn't work properly. This happened quite frequently. br>br>Anyway, let's get to the "Wall Console," also known as the button. The old one had been stuck for several years since it was installed when the house was built in 1996. It would occasionally do so twice. click, implying that you'd have to push twice: once to close the door that had opened 1" and then stopped, and then once more to open it. Also, I'm hoping it didn't happen twice. Click once more (this happened several times). The old button also had a neat trick of getting stuck in the depressed position, rendering the entire system inoperable. It's all a bit annoying. If you're curious as to why I took so long to replace it, consider the following: My wife parks her car in the garage, while I park mine in the driveway and enter the house through the front door. )br>br>The new button is extremely useful. It's a lot bigger than the old button, and it's all by itself, so you won't accidentally turn on the opener light when you meant to open the door (or vice versa). It also has a lot of light inside. The red light would draw your attention if you didn't notice the big black box on the wall by itself. br>br>(And, in case you couldn't tell from the photo, the green painters tape on the grab bar was there to provide some contrast in a field of white for the person who was using it, who had a limited field of vision due to glaucoma. ) br>br>Now it's time to set up the system. br>br>(I'm going to assume this is a replacement button, rather than a first-time installation. ) You'd also need to run a two-stage process for that. a conductor wire connecting the button to the garage door opener)br>br>Installing this button as a direct replacement is simple. At the very least, if your garage ceiling is low. My garage door opener was plugged in, so I had to get the ladder out from behind piles of junk to unplug it (step one in replacing the button). Why didn't I just shut down the circuit breaker? The garage lights are plugged into the same outlet as the opener, thanks to the genius who built my house. I also didn't open the garage door because I was working late at night. Also in the late autumn. And because the garage faces northwest, all of the cold air is drawn in. Step 1 of the installation is to unplug your garage door opener (or flip the circuit breaker) after you've unpacked the box the button came in and have all of the tools listed in the box (if you're replacing an existing Genie button, you might only need a 2 Philips screwdriver). The old button must be unscrewed in the second step. Two wires should run into the back of the existing button once it is removed from the wall. Don't turn off the lights just yet. Examine the new button to ensure that the screw holes are aligned. You can skip the next few paragraphs if they're all in order. This step(s) will require the following tools: br>br> If you're using a pencil, make sure it's as thin as possible. a bodied pen, a Philips screwdriver, a 5 foot long tape measure, and a power drill with various bits A stud-gun is an optional piece of gear. detector. br>br>Instructions for drilling new holes for the new button are included in the box, but you'll need a small drill (I'm not sure what size it is, but it's less than 1/4"). Mark the locations for the screws by inserting your pencil or pen through the screw holes on the back of the new button and drawing around the outside of the hole once you've found a spot on the wall next to the door where you'd like to have the button. (And, according to many building codes, they should be 50" above the ground or a step to prevent small children from injuring themselves by playing with the garage door. ) The optional step of searching for a stud to avoid using the plastic anchors necessitates the use of a stud-finding tool. The following paragraph describes the detector. To ensure I'm not drilling over a stud, I always start by drilling a small pilot hole with a 3/32" drill bit. To get through the drywall, the drill bit must be at least 1" away from the drill. Drilling through drywall should be simple, but drilling through wood will be more difficult. Another thing to keep an eye out for is wood on the drill bit's end. The third test entails not drilling all the way to the drill's maximum depth. After you've finished drilling and turned off the drill, replace the drill bit in the hole. You will be unable to push any further if you are over a stud. There will be no resistance if there is no stud behind the wall; however, if you drilled a 1/4" hole and went too far into a stud, you will have difficulty using either type of fastener (screwing directly into the stud or using the plastic inserts). After determining whether you're drilling into a stud or just drywall, you can either move on (stud) or pull out the larger drill bit (drywall) and drill the holes to the larger size; after that, the small hammer or big thumb comes in handy. The plastic inserts should be pushed or lightly tapped into the holes until they're flush with the drywall. To make sure the screws will work, I like to put them in now, either into the studs or into the inserts once they're in the wall but not all the way in. You might need a slightly larger pilot hole if you're having trouble screwing into the stud. It's better to find out now than when the button is halfway mounted on the wall. If the inserts spin as you start the screw, you may need a larger size or a different type of fastener (unfortunately, drywall comes in a variety of thicknesses and grades, and it also becomes more brittle with age, so what works in a 20-year-old house may not work in a 50-year-old house). )br>br>Most doors have two studs against each side of the door, which may or may not be touching, to aid in finding studs next to doorways. The location of the outermost stud can usually be determined by looking at the location of the light switches next to the door, as they are (usually) attached to that stud. The next stud could be 16" center to center, or about 14" on the inside and outside edges. The switch plate is 5" and 16" away from the door's edge. The reason I say may is that, while (most) wall studs are spaced 16" apart, doors rarely do, so the gap on either side of the door is likely to be smaller. The light switch on the inside of a stud is pictured, and the button is over the next stud (but off to one side enough to cover the hole where the wire comes through the drywall, so the center to center distance is about 6" instead of 16? However, using a stud detector frequently begins with a tape measure and an understanding of where a stud "should" be, so you'll know what your detector signal should look like when it finds one. Furthermore, because studs are typically spaced 16" apart, finding one will usually lead to the discovery of others. br>br>Turn the button over after you're ready to mount it to the wall (but before you actually mount it), and you'll see two screws on the bottom of the button. These are the same as the old button's two screws. Simply unscrew one wire from the old button and transfer it to a terminal (screw) on the new button, then turn the new button over, place it against the wall, making sure not to pinch the wires (there is a small slot for surface mounted wires to exit), and insert the previously started screws (did you remember to take them out? ) and secure them with a rubber band. All you have to do now is reconnect your garage door (or reset the circuit breaker), and your new button should function flawlessly. br>br>In fact, I'm pretty sure it took me longer to type this than it did to install the button. Of course, I had mostly aligned holes (I believe I had to drill a new hole for one of the screws, now that I think about it).

Bryan Proctor

| Mar 20, 2021

It wasn't clear to me which model to get to replace my old genie wall mount unit until I came across someone who had done the same and posted a picture of the old and new, so I felt obligated to do the same. Screw holes, black and white wire configuration, and overall size of the new unit are similar to those of the old one I replaced. The process of replacing the old unit with a new one was quick and easy. The new unit came with excellent instructions, but I chose to use the old wall mount screws because they appear to be a little more durable than the new ones. It performs admirably and appears to be more durable than the previous model. The only way to find out is to wait.

Neil Campos

| Aug 16, 2021

I bought two of these because the open/close button on one of my wall consoles (which came with the garage door opener) stopped working, and to be honest, I didn't think the console would last this long (18 years) given how flimsy it was. I'm not chopping it up: This one does not appear to be any tougher. However, a (much) larger, more tactile open/close door button would be preferable. If it lasts as long as it did before, I'll be happy. It's very simple to set up: br>br> To switch from the old to the new console, simply connect the two wires. Of course, before working on these switches, you must unplug or turn off the garage door from the circuit breaker for safety reasons. br>br>Before purchasing this, I was concerned about compatibility (it specifically states that it is only compatible with Series II garage doors). When I removed my old wall control from the wall, it had Series II written on the PCB. This is sufficient to convince me that it is compatible. The ladder can also be used to check the model/serial number. That is not an option for me on a lazy Sunday afternoon. 😝.

Luisa THORPE

| Sep 04, 2021

Changes in fashion. This is a fantastic wall console! I recently moved into a new home with a Genie Model 1028 garage door opener (previously known as the RelaG 650) installed by the builder. A simple doorbell was used to activate the opener. (Genie GWC-style switch) Switch from the BX Series II. Although the doorbell switch worked, I was unable to lock out the remotes when I went on vacation. br>br>The GBWCSL2- is an acronym for "global warming and climate change" in the United Kingdom. The BX doorbell switch replaced the standard Genie doorbell switch in about 5 minutes. It was not necessary to make any changes to the wiring. This console makes use of the same two-channel audio system as the previous one. The overhead door opener is connected via a wire. It's as simple as turning off the power and swapping the switches. A red LED will illuminate the console once it is installed, and it will be located directly behind the large white open/close switch. The remote controls can be locked out by sliding a toggle to the lower left, which prevents them from being used to open the door. The garage light on the overhead door opener is toggled by the switch on the lower right. br>br>One of the best features of the GBWCSL2- The mounting holes on the BX are identical to those on a standard light switch electrical box. This console will fit right on top of your garage door switch wire if it happens to end up in a light switch electrical box. br>br>Amazon Vendor Preferred Doors is where I got this console. I will definitely buy from them again because the price was great and the shipping was quick.

Aden Floyd

| Dec 05, 2021