White-Rodgers 50A55-3797 White Rodgers Direct Replacement for Trane Single Stage Integrated Furnace Control, 120V Ignitor
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I realize this is an old question, but I just installed this as a replacement for a 50A55-based system. It's a 571 with a bad ignitor relay that works perfectly. In my case, every wire on this board was labeled the same as it was on the original board, and all of my wires were routed back to the same locations. The only difference I notice in terms of connections is that this board has spots for connecting a humidifier, which my system lacks and which were not populated on the original board.
This is a suggested replacement for the CNT02789, according to White Rodgers.
The 50A55 is a type of 50A55. The 3797 can be used in place of the 50A55. Trane gas furnaces used part number 571 (discontinued). To confirm your specific control board number, call White Rogers at (314) 553-8000 and ask for technical support. 3600.
Selected User Reviews For White-Rodgers 50A55-3797 White Rodgers Direct Replacement for Trane Single Stage Integrated Furnace Control, 120V Ignitor
571 / CNT2789 / CNT2789 / CNT2789 / CNT27 For the 50A55-, this was a simple plug-and-play replacement. My furnace had a 571 / CNT2789 that had shorted out. The new card's socket labeling was identical to the old, so all I had to do was move the wires from the old card to the same locations on the new card, and my furnace was up and running again. It took five minutes to complete. I'm glad Amazon carries these parts because you'd have to call a service tech and pay 5x the price, or order from an HVAC supply shop and wait a week for the part otherwise. See my photo for a shot of the installation sheet showing the various part numbers this unit replaces.
It's been a little over three months since I got it. When my heater broke down (Traine) at the end of last winter, I ordered this. I was concerned that because it was an aftermarket board, I would have to make any adjustments or jumpers to get it to work properly, but after receiving it and reading the instructions as well as some of the online reviews, my concerns were allayed: easy install, no wiring adjustments, it works fine. For the heater (furnace), the fire did not happen during the first two attempts of each day I ran the heater due to time out of the gas valve opening, but it worked fine after that. try. The AC operation has been flawless for the last several weeks of summer, so I'm sure this will adjust itself up over time. So far, I've been very pleased with it.
The AC line and XFMR line terminal locations were reversed from my original board, but both were shorted together, so no worries. My old board's led was not flashing and the heating cycle would occasionally not start. All functions, including the diagnostic led, are operational after the installation of the new board. This is taking the place of a 50A55- 571 Three solder jumpers were on the old board, but the new board had dip switches. All three switches had the same factory default settings as my original board: jumper = On.
It is relatively simple to set up. Before you remove anything, take a picture of it. Turn off the power, remove the bracket, and begin by following the old pictures and tags on the board. One day, I'll film an Amazon purchase and installation. There were four flashing lights on the old board, and there was no heat. Early this year, a helpful AC repairman showed me how to adjust pins on the board to improve board contact, but he also mentioned that the board would need to be replaced, and the adjustments no longer work. The new board turned on quickly and produced a significant increase in heat over the old board, reaching 105° in the picture but reaching 118° in the real world. The old board had a top speed of around 90 mph. (An old board is depicted in this image. ) The board is fantastic, but it took almost the entire shipping window to arrive because it was ordered on Tuesday and did not arrive until the following Monday.
The house's heat is provided by a 571 board. This board was a direct replacement for the older board; none of the connection points for the individually connected wires were moved, but I would recommend labeling them all before disconnecting them, or at the very least taking some good closeup photos with your phone, as getting them all back to the same posts is crucial. The only difference is that this board has some humidifier connections that were not available on my older board, as well as the fact that the row of neutral connections below the 4 pin by 1 row connector is all connected together on this board, so if you don't see a neutral with the same name as what you disconnected on the old board, that's probably fine. However, you should double-check that the layout and connections on the version of the board you receive are identical. If you're thinking about replacing this board as a DIY project without first turning off the power to the air handler, don't. Even if the air handler's safety switch is on, there is still 120v in there, which you could trip over. If you have air conditioning, the outside compressor and the inside air handler will each have their own breaker; make sure you're turning off the correct one.
My 50A55 was replaced with a new one. In the Trane system, there are 474 cards. I was able to get to work right away after connecting. The LINE-UP was one thing that was different. XFMR-H and H On this card, the H slots have been reversed from the original. So keep that in mind when installing. If your card is slightly different from the one shown, make sure to read the slots you plug it into. The delivery service was excellent. It arrived within 4 business days of ordering, which was faster than the expected arrival time when I ordered, which was great because the air conditioning had gone out and it had been a little hot in the house without it.
The furnace provided no heat, but it would heat up and then turn off at random intervals. Uggggh! After doing some research online, I decided to buy this board, which I replaced my old one with after the heater blew room temperature cold air. I took my time (around 20 minutes). (30 min. ) br>Bang, it's on! No more 57-degree nights!
Done! br>According to what I've read, it'll most likely be five. A HVAC technician will cost you $600. I decided to take a chance for $100. I'm satisfied with the result. br>Don't be afraid to take a chance.
In July, my air conditioning broke down on a Friday night in Texas. A service call, at the very least, would have been scheduled for Monday and would have cost more. I'm a self-taught craftsperson. er, so I was confident in my ability to troubleshoot the system and determine whether or not this card was what I required. I'm fortunate in that I'll be able to get it on Sunday! Because I took my time, I was able to get cold air in about 10 minutes after receiving the card; there are only minor differences between the 50A55-S and the 50A55-S. I needed to replace a 571 card, one of which had a built-in fuse, and the delivery was prompt. The description of the product was correct. I'm hoping I won't need it again, but I'll order it if the other unit requires it.
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