ICM Controls ICM288 Furnace Control, Low Cost Replacement for Rheem 62-24084-82 Control Boards

I used to have a Rheem furnace with a 62-inch control board. 24084- I used this to replace the control board after discovering a scorch mark on the almost 20-year-old board caused by a resistor, and I didn't want to get an exact model used replacement board off an auction site due to the issues of only finding 20-year-old boards with 20-year-old used components. 24084- 01 boards are available for more than twice the price of this new one. br>br>Fun facts: 1. br>br> In 1994, the flame detector was added to these furnaces. I believe that any furnace manufactured after 1995 is safe to use, based on my online research. I didn't need the extra kit because my furnace (based on the serial number) was manufactured in 1997. If your furnace is from 1994 and hasn't been modified, look up how to decode the exact week on the internet. 2. br>br>1. br>br>br>br>br>br From my original board to this new one, some of the wire locations were switched. I was fortunate enough to have the wiring diagram for the original 62-inch television glued to the control panel. 24084- I downloaded the instructions for this board ahead of time, labeled each wire with a label, and then located where each wire went on the new board; I believe this would have been necessary even with the new style OEM board. br>I will try to include a photo of the old wiring diagram with this review, as I could not find it online and it was very useful when I went to fiddle with it. 3. br>br>4. br>br>5. br>br>6. I had to feed a little extra wire into the box due to the difference in locations of the main (not thermostat) wires, but I was fortunate to have plenty of extra wire outside the box in the wire bundles, so I simply pulled on the existing wire inside the box to feed a little more. br>I did have to cut the hooks off the thermostat wires and then insert the now bare straight wire under the screw/securing blocks for them, rather than wrapping them around the screw like the old model board did. br>br>4. When I removed my old board (which was attached in the four corners), I simply took needle nose plyers and squeezed them to remove the old board (which was attached in the four corners). I was then able to simply push the new board onto the existing clips, as the holes are the same size; it's also nice to know that if you lose them during the removal of the old board, new ones are included if you need them.

Leilany Burns

| Feb 01, 2021

24084- Additionally, there is a 01 board. This board was a perfect fit for my Rheem 90-watt heater. as well as a furnace from 1995 The optional flame sensor kit was not required in my case. When you inquire with your product name, model, and serial number on the Rheem website, I was given the information. I've got a Rheem 90-watt air conditioner. In addition, the RGRA-model is available. 09EZAJS, with a serial number beginning with DF5D707. Your information will lead you to the information you need to determine if a flame sensor kit is required. The standoffs and mounting clips were already on the board, and they all aligned perfectly with my existing box, making it a snap to install. When the unit turned on, the AC blower fan was not reliably running. The fan would start and stop on its own, running for a few seconds to a few minutes before shutting off. I'd turn the fan on and off a few times to get it running, thinking there might be a dead spot on the winding. I moved my cool motor wire to the EAC connection, which improved things slightly, but it was still just a temporary /emergency/get this thing running effort. I eventually plugged the fan directly into the board's primary and let it run for as long as the unit was powered up. I had to play human thermostat and turn the unit off and on as needed to stay cool, but it was enough to get me through the heat wave. Please don't try anything you're not comfortable with from my suggestions because I am not a professional and you could end up causing more damage than you started with. I used a flashlight to examine the board closely from the basement floor and found no obvious flaws. I needed to take the board out of the housing and examine it under good lighting for a while. My issue was a burned diode (D5), which was easily identified under better lighting and closer inspection. If I can get it off the board without destroying it and locate the numbers on it, it'll probably be a 25 cent fix. I'll keep it as a backup. A factory replacement board was quoted to me at $291 USD and was most likely manufactured outside of the United States, so I was thrilled to find this board for under $100 and have it delivered to my door in two days as a prime member.

Millie Bird

| Nov 16, 2021