SUNLITE Bottom Bracket Set

PLUS, a look at the "68mm" format and how to install it. Do not purchase the 65mm unless the inside diameter of your bearing race (cup) has been measured. Bearing races (cups) with an inside diameter of 39mm are included in this "65mm" set. If the dimensions match those of your bearing races, go ahead and purchase it. This "65mm" set is for a kid's bike. br>If the inside diameter of your bearing race is 47mm, get the "68mm" set. The larger "68mm" set is designed for standard bicycles. br>The bottom bracket width is a poor parameter to use when deciding which set to order because the bottom bracket width on some bikes that require the larger "68mm" set is closer to 65mm than 68mm. br>Double-check your measurements before purchasing. br>I would give it a five-star rating. If the ordering instructions were more clear, this would be a five-star rating. The "65mm" set came with detailed instructions. br>THE "68mm" BOTTOM BRACKET SET IN REVIEW: I also bought the 68mm Bottom Bracket Set, but apparently I'm only allowed to write one review for each, so I'm cramming the 68mm review into this space. With the exception of the bearing retainers, the parts appear to be of good quality. If you catch the retainer on something while installing the crank, some of the retainer hooks will bend, and you'll be chasing ball bearings. When installing or removing the crank, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO STRESS THE BEARING RETAINERS. I used a 5/8"-diameter drill bit to install the bearing cups instead of investing in a bearing press. 4" bolt, nut, and two large washers, 11 tpi. This kit came without any instructions.

Leandro Hobbs

| Mar 30, 2021

The sunlight bottom bracket set I ordered for my client fit his bike perfectly, but I noticed something wasn't quite right about his old BB set. I was never able to figure out what was wrong at first, but I eventually concluded that the parts were simply worn out and no longer functioned as they did when my client first purchased it or when I first received his bike, so I informed him that his Bottom Bracket, Crank Arm, and Chainrings all needed to be replaced. So I threw everything out and decided to start over. This new BB set, on the other hand, performed admirably. The bearings that came with the kit were not Hartford USA Bearings, so I didn't use them. So I used some used Hartford bearings that I had on hand, as well as Park Tool PPL-100, and they both worked perfectly. There was only one grease that worked. The BB was easy to put together; all I had to do was tighten the cotter bolt a little more and it was perfect. With the Sunlite crank arm and Sunlite double chainrings, it also looks great. If you have an Ashtabula crankset or an American 1-piece crankset, I strongly recommend this Bottom Bracket set. a three-piece crankset.

Maison Melton

| Dec 05, 2021

I've placed two orders for these sets so far. One is for a Torker 26" cruiser and the other is for a modern Schwinn Windwood 26" cruiser. Both bikes were able to use the same 24TPI, 68mm bottom bracket set. Despite the fact that I clean and lube the bearings on a regular basis, the difference these made was obvious. Both bikes are in excellent condition and pedal smoothly. I didn't notice the old bearings' performance change because it was so gradual until I decided to try these. Everything was new, including the cups. Bike performance is available right away. I would strongly suggest it.

Reece Gould

| Jul 27, 2021

In my 7-speed manual transmission, I used it to replace the bottom bracket assembly. year- The pedals were binding up and throwing the chain on my old son's bike because the original bearing ring had been crushed. It's back to normal now! IMPORTANT NOTE: br>br> If you don't grease the bearings before installing them, the metal-to-metal contact will be compromised. They will be quickly worn out due to metal friction in the beating ring.

Richard Kelly

| Mar 29, 2021

style 1- piece- crank- Bottom bracket bikes with 2 inch bracket holes from the United States (cruiser or old BMX). EDITED IN APRIL 2015 WARNING: If you choose the 65mm size and then click "Add to Cart," you will be adding the WRONG ITEM to your cart. It replaces it with a "mini" bearing, which is useless because it is the wrong size; unfortunately, this is still the only bottom bracket for 1-inch wheels. Amazon has a piece of unpainted American cranks for sale. So, if you do decide to purchase it, double-check the item description in your cart before paying! The item advertised in this ad is quite good. I'm sure the mini version is good as well, but it's a different size that won't work if you want a full-size kit. ALWAYS CHECK YOUR CART BEFORE PAYING, AS I HAPPILY FINDED OUT WHEN ORDERING A NEW KIT FOR MY BROTHER'S BIKE. br>br>I bought a Schwinn cruiser bike (and I will never buy another Schwinn) and every part was designed to the wrong tolerances or broke right out of the box. The frame, on the other hand, is something I really like. As a result, I've been reassembling the bike with NEW non-corrosive components. The bottom bracket bearings were originally PAINTED, and the crank shaft was TWISTED. br>br>Schwinn parts were assembled piece by piece. br>br> The bearings were rubbing unevenly due to the twisting, and they weren't rolling smoothly due to the paint (which began to flake off and become stuck in the bearings, making them even less smooth than before), so I disassembled them and discarded them. As a replacement, I bought this kit. It was delivered quickly and in good condition. I haven't put it together yet, but the bearings appear to be sliding nicely inside the cups, so it appears to be in good shape. br>br>NOTE: if you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, this is the place to be Check to see if your bike has the proper bearings. There are about five or six different kinds to choose from. This is a set for those who want to go back in time. school American bicycles with the one-speed transmission The pedals are screwed DIRECTLY onto the crank, which is a two-piece crank that slides all the way through the bracket. This is the wrong type of bearing for you if your pedals are connected by two separate arms. br>br>Another thing to keep in mind is that Remove the crank arm (with pedals) and the bearing guts to see if they need to be replaced. But don't start pounding the cups out of the hole just yet. They should be left alone. Attempt to remove as much grease as possible. Place one of the bearing rings in the cup and the cone (inner screw/cover) on top of it while the bike is on its side. With your fingers, spin the cone. If it does not spin freely or wobbles a lot, it is likely that the bearing needs to be replaced. Don't forget to check the other side of the bike as well. If you've never done it before, look up some how-to videos on YouTube. Take it to a bike shop or watch videos on how to remove and replace it. br>br>All right, so this kit is for a 24 thread-count machine. per- inch one- a crank in pieces All of the nuts on this table are threaded to fit that particular crank. Other "TPI" (thread per inch) numbers exist, but they are not compatible with this. The nuts are not properly screwed on. With the large bearing bracket hole, it's designed for cruisers and BMX bikes. If you already have another type of bearing in there, you can still use this as long as the hole is the right size (2 inches) and you remove ALL of the old bearing's parts. The old bearing cups will most likely be beaten out with a hammer and a punch or screwdriver; the bearings are just exposed steel balls, but they're contained in a ring spacer so they're not as easy to drop and lose. Make sure to use a lot of grease when installing a bearing. Really. In this case, too much grease isn't a problem; however, too little grease causes the bike to malfunction. br>br>Tip: if you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, try using the words " You don't have a bearing press and you can't find a 2x4? Make one for a low price! A threaded rod with a length of 6 to 8 inches is required. A nut (only one end needs to be screwed, so the other end can have a fixed head) and two washers are required for each end of the rod. A 3 inch steel washer is the one that goes against the nut. It should be a 2 for the one that goes against the bearing. Rubber washers are available in sizes ranging from 25 to 3 inches in length. On one end of the rod, you place a nut, a metal washer, and a rubber washer; After loosely fitting your bearing cups by hand, feed the rod through the bearing bracket, and then onto the opposite end of the rod, place the rubber washer, steel washer, and nut. Squeeze both bearings completely into the bracket by tightening the nuts. You may need extra washers between the nut and the big steel washer to adapt from the rod's diameter to the big washer's inner diameter (hole size), otherwise the nut will not fit inside the washer.

Priscilla HARTLEY

| Nov 21, 2021