Park Tool Compact Crank Puller
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It will, in my opinion. It's for square tapered and splined common cranks, according to the label. It also states that the thread is 22x1mm, which corresponds to the bowflex specifications. I debated this part, as well as a few other Park parts that should work because they are for the same common cranks. I used the Oumers Bike Crank Extractor/Arm Remover and Bottom Bracket Remover with 16mm Spanner/Wrench for my Bowflex Max trainer, which claimed to be for common cranks both square tapered and splined.
It ought to function correctly. I'd put my money on it. It makes no difference what size or type of fastener you use. Bottom brackets and spindles come in a variety of designs, but the inner threads for a puller are the most important. a device for cranking This crank puller is compatible with both my Bianchi and Trek bikes. It also works on a Kona and a Raleigh bike owned by a friend of mine. I believe you have a square tapered spindle, and this tool will work with it based on your description (a nut, not a bolt). High-end, over-designed end bikes may have built-in pullers or a deep-seated pulley system. Set the crank bolt; since you aren't describing it, I recommend purchasing the tool.
It will work if it is a Bosch BNI electric bike.
The Park Tool website has photo instructions for crank removal and installation (crank removal and installation: three- piece), as well as on-line video instructions. Two or three wrenches are also required [i) an adj wrench or two regular wrenches for the crank puller tool, and ii) a socket wrench for the crank bolt (M8, M12, or M14). Best wishes to you.
Selected User Reviews For Park Tool Compact Crank Puller
I had to return it because the nut that is supposed to thread into the crank had no threads cut on it. The first image depicts what I received, while the second depicts what the Park tool website claims it should look like.
This tool, along with an adjustable wrench, was used to remove the pedal crank from my Lifecore Assault Bike. You won't be able to remove your pedal crank from your bike or fitness bike without this tool, which is made of high-quality materials. It appears to have a long lifespan. If you don't want to use an adjustable wrench, the Park Tool CCP-100 is the tool for you. It's also a high-quality device. I've used both, but my preference is for the CCP- You'll be happy with the results regardless of which one you use. Please select "yes" if this review was of any assistance to you. thank you.
In my old MTB, I had an old standard spindle and bearing set that I couldn't get the cranks off of. I finally gave in and bought the park tool after trying several "no tool" methods. Because it comes in park tool-branded packaging, this appears to be the real deal. With this tool, I was able to remove my cranks in less than two minutes. According to some reviews, it can strip the threads from aluminum cranks. Mine are made of aluminum, and I had no problems using them. Just make sure to thread the outer housing all the way into the bottom of the crank threads and back the center bolT all the way back. Then, when pulling the crank with the center bolt, take your time. That's all there is to it. It was an excellent solution.
In my lifetime, I've used numerous pullers, including automotive, motorcycle, and other applications. Knowing I only had one chance to remove the square taper crank arms without a massive afternoon headache, I decided to spend the extra money on the brand name puller. Even with all of the safeguards in place - It STILL stripped when I fully backed off the mandrel, threaded by hand so as not to cross thread, and snugged down before pulling the arm. br>br>Not only did it mutilate the threads in the crank arm, but it also stripped the tool's first half dozen threads clean off inside the aluminum! My guess is that the threaded portion of this unit received a bad heat treatment, but it's frustrating when you spend the extra money on a tool that's supposed to do one job and it fails the first time you use it. There's no reason the tool should have failed with such an easy pull, given how easily I was able to remove the now useless crank arm with a BB bolt, BFH, and a block of wood.
This is an excellent resource. Even if you clean the hole where the tool is inserted, it will still strip. If you don't clean it, it'll start to strip. If you don't clean the hole prestine with carb cleaner or WD40 before inserting the tool, you'll end up wasting $20. It was a hard lesson to learn.
When it comes to removing cranks, this is a must-have tool. However, because there is no single standard for most things, something will always go wrong. The two included spacers/pushers were slightly too small in this case, and they snagged on the inside of the crank. My main concern was that it would mess up the threads, but they turned out to be fine. I had to use a rod from the other side to push the spacer out, and Park has a great youtube video on how to do it.
The internal screw's thread was so rough the first time I used it that I had to grease it, but that didn't fix the problem. I'm a seasoned mechanic, and despite not exerting excessive force on this delicate thread, it has nearly vanished from the screw. I had requested a return and will place a new order. I'm hoping it's an isolated issue (regarding the positive reviews) and that the next one will last me a long time; until then, I'll leave a one-star review here.
There are a few cheaper tools out there, but I'm glad I went with a quality Park Tool unit because I have a small collection of bikes, some of which are getting older and needing some bottom bracket service. br>br>My 20-year-old cranks The year-old Trek hybrid was firmly rooted in place. As a hobby, I restore cars, so I have a collection of gear and pitman arm pullers, but none of them worked for this job, owing to sizing and clearance issues. br>br>This tool completed its task. They didn't come off easily; it took a lot of torque on the tool, but they did so without damaging the cranks, the tool, or the bottom bracket bearing shaft. There is no damage to the threads and it appears to be made of good quality hardened tool steel. br>br>I'm glad I bought it; I'm sure it'll come in handy.
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