Allen Sports 3-Bike Hitch Racks for 1 1/4 in. and 2 in. Hitch
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Yes, an amazon hitch stabilizer (which looks like a U clamp) is available. They are reasonably priced, starting at $10.br> and are very effective. If you have a low-slung vehicle, install the U clamp from the bottom up; otherwise, the vehicle will scrape against the ground. It's also a good idea to tighten it up on a regular basis. One of mine became loose until I changed the way it was installed.
I use bungee cords (for longer trips/transports) and a combination bike lock (when I'm just going down the street to a bike path). It is threaded so that the wheels are secured and theft is prevented.
To secure the carrier to your car, you'll also need a long shackle padlock. Anyone can pop the retaining pin and remove the rack and bikes if this is not done.
You can add a shin plate made of plastic or metal to the inside of the boot.
Selected User Reviews For Allen Sports 3-Bike Hitch Racks for 1 1/4 in. and 2 in. Hitch
The warranty is a waste of money. A representative informed me that my F- grade was not good enough. The 350 suspension system is too stiff for this, and the product will not be covered under warranty. Nowhere in the description, installation, or warranty PDF does it mention one-time use. The warranty would be voided if trucks weighing more than ten tons were used. br>br>I also mentioned that I used it on occasion in my camper, which they claim is not covered under warranty as well. br>br>However, you should be aware that using this on a truck or camper is not covered (you won't find it in writing).
The CURT 124903 Class 2 bicycle rack and the CURT 124903 Class 2 bicycle rack The hitch is 25 inches long. The 1. , as many others have stated, has a problem. After you've installed the rack, you'll have a 25-inch hitch. It sways and appears to be shaky. So I did some research and came up with a low-cost alternative - Purchase a u bar (priced at $12; see photos)! This was the final piece of the puzzle.
I like it, but only after the following three issues have been addressed. I can now drive with two bicycles mounted without wobbling, with the front wheel of the bicycle in place, and, more importantly, I can remove the post and its arms in less than ten seconds when they are not needed. br>br>The three problems I've encountered and the solutions I've come up with. 1. br>br> The post and carry arms obstruct the license plate when I am not carrying bicycles. According to what I've heard, driving with a bike rack but no bikes is illegal in my state. It is against the law to obstruct the license plate. They also get in the way of the backup camera. As a result, I replaced the single 3/8 bolt connecting the elbow to the post with the 3/8 hitch, pin locked, and handle shown below. .
Same issues, but it's hard to complain because it's a very affordable and functional trailer hitch bike rack for under $100. The "filler plates," I believe, are the weak spot. That's where I notice the most lateral movement, and since the top of the rack extends for about 2 feet, a half cm of movement at the top translates to a couple of inches. br>br>On the highway, I had no problems because I was traveling at a constant speed, but any bump or change in momentum causes the bike and the rack to sway dramatically. Drivers behind me are probably concerned about this. I'm not sure I'd feel safe using this for an extended period of time because I'm not sure how the welding would hold up. I'll disassemble the filler plate and see if there's a way to tighten up that area to reduce movement. br>br>Recent changes: br>br> I purchased their version, which holds four bicycles. The only difference (and this is the most important) is that the hitch is only designed to fit a 2 inch receiver. Because there are no filler plates, I was able to establish a more secure connection that was free of wobble. If you have a 2 inch receiver, the Allen 4-inch receiver is a good choice. For a secure attachment and peace of mind, use a bike hitch. The other major difference is that the hitch attachment is a single piece, so there are no weld points.
I've had two Allen 3 bike tow hitch carriers, the first of which I accidentally left at an RV park. The first was a less expensive version of this one, which I used for several years and which performed admirably. Because some of these bike racks are ridiculously expensive, I decided to upgrade to the nicer version of my old one, which has rubber stretch straps rather than the nylon ones on my cheaper version. Even with the upgrade, the Allen is still less expensive than most, and I love it just as much as the first one. This one has easier folding mechanisms than the hand pin ones in the other, and the holding cups are also nicer. Many people complain about how much it wobbles, but that is the nature of tow hitch bike racks in general. It's fairly simple to fix; you can do it one of two ways, or both, as I recommend. To begin, I'm assuming that the majority of people who use a tow hitch bike carrier, like myself, own a truck. Because the pin hole in all of the trucks I've owned is 5/8" rather than 1/2", the hole for the bike carrier is smaller than the one in your truck's tow hitch, resulting in the bad wobble. Don't even think about tampering with the anti-virus software. It will not work with a wobble pin because it is the wrong size for most people; instead, get a 5/8" drill bit designed for drilling through metal for $15-$20. At Home Depot, the cost is $20. Drill the largest hole on the bike carrier to this size, and while you're at Home Depot, pick up a 5/8" locking pin (again, to prevent your bike and rack from being stolen). A lot of the wobble will be eliminated as a result of this. If you're still not satisfied, consider purchasing a Hitch Tightener. There are a few good ones available on Amazon for less than $20. For short trips, I use the above-mentioned simple fix; for longer trips, I use the Hitch Tightener. The issue has been resolved:.
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