Pond Armor SKU-BLACK-GA Non-Toxic Pond Shield Epoxy Paint, 1.5-Gallon, Black
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Heat will affect the cure time of Pond Shield because it is an exothermic coating; if it is hot outside, the coating will want to cure faster. The majority of people, however, will make the mistake of mixing the Pond Shield and then leaving it in the container in which it was mixed. Remove it from the container and pour it into a large flat paint pan or directly onto the floor of the water feature you're building. Please contact us by phone at (800) 222-4444. 716- If you require any additional assistance, please contact us at 1545. br>Pond Armor is a type of armor that is used to protect a pond.
The type of surface plays a role in this. If you have a smooth surface, coverage should be around 54 square feet. It will take 35-45 minutes if the surface is porous. The area is 40 square feet. This is my personal opinion based on my use of the product.
I'm afraid I don't have a specific answer to your question. However, I used it to coat the sides and bottom of my Koi pond, and it's completely safe for fish and plants. This implies that it is also safe to use on edible plants. Check with the seller if you have any questions. I contacted them, and they were able to assist me.
No, the surface on which the product will be applied must be dry and clean. Clean with a vacuum. There should be no loose material, and anything that appears to be loose should be chipped away. If the area to be sealed is wet or damp, a drier or blower can be used to dry it. I wouldn't use it on flagstone unless you have a small area (I'm assuming you're not walking on this flagstone, it's on a side wall or something), because the flagstone will consume a lot of Pond Armor. Pond Armor clear will give the flag stone a "wet look" and a "shiny" finish. If you don't mind that kind of finish and the price isn't too high, go for it. A rough surface, such as flagstone or concrete, will require more Pond Armor than a smooth one. If you have a large area to cover, I would only apply a quart of Pond Armor at a time to a rough surface like that until you can see how well it adheres. Remember that if you only use Pond Armor on some of the flagstones, the rest will look completely different. It's also possible that you'll need to add a second item. Because the Flag Stone is so ruff, it may appear that you have covered everything, but once it dries, you will notice that you have missed some. (Unless you're a pro at getting it all done in one coat) I hope this helps. It all works!
Selected User Reviews For Pond Armor SKU-BLACK-GA Non-Toxic Pond Shield Epoxy Paint, 1.5-Gallon, Black
Pond Shield (black) was applied to a freshly poured concrete fountain basin that had been thoroughly dried and cured in accordance with the cement manufacturer's specifications. All of the recommendations below are for a rough concrete surface of 30 square feet. In general, I am pleased with the Pond Shield coating, but I was disappointed by the instruction sheet that came with the product, which I believe could have been more specific about mixing and preparation. Here are some of my thoughts in the hopes of assisting other installers: 1. br>br> There are two cans included in the box: Part A (epoxy that has been rubberized) and Part B (activator). Despite what the carton claims, there are no measuring cups included in the box, so you'll have to bring your own. For jobs with a budget of less than $20,000, In a space of 30 square feet, two disposable sets of one cup should suffice. a half-cup At the paint store, I recommend getting at least two small, quart-sized mixing cups, two 4" paint roller trays, and a 6-inch paint roller. a set of rollers A 4" premium lint-free dryer sheet was used. free roller (for semi-professionals) I liked the texture of the application (smooth surfaces). You'll also need a set of measuring spoons to thin out Part-B before mixing it with Part-Abr>br>2. Part B (activator) should be thinned with either denatured alcohol or 99% isopropyl alcohol, according to the instructions. You may have a difficult time finding these products depending on where you are in the country (USA), so plan ahead. I was fortunate in that I was able to locate 99 of them. 9% isopropyl at a specialty electronics store in my area 91% isopropyl is often stocked in drugstores, but nothing higher than 91% isopropyl is often stocked in drugstores, but It's worth planning ahead and ordering a quart of 99% along with the Pond Shield on Amazon as well as well as well as well as well as well as well (As a side note, if you go the denatured alcohol route, make sure any product you buy contains a high percentage of ethanol rather than methyl alcohol and other adulterants, which don't thin out paint products as well. ) 3. )br>br>4. )br>br>5. )br>br>6. The Pond Shield instructions say to use a 3 part water to 1 part muriatic acid solution to treat concrete surfaces. This can be purchased either online or at a masonry supply store near you. When preparing this solution, keep in mind that you'll need chemical-resistant gloves, eye protection, and (ideally) an acid/gas respirator. After you've let the solution etch the concrete (I gave it about 5 minutes), wash it away, according to the directions. If you're working in a fountain basin, however, you might need to siphon out the water and clean up the final wetness with a large sponge. 4. br>br> IMPORTANT NOTE: If you're working with a basin, I recommend flooding the entire feature to completely neutralize the acid before draining and drying it out. For good measure, I'm going to flood and wash it twice. If any acid has been left on the concrete, the acid residue may off gass after the Pond Shield has been applied, causing small bubbles to appear throughout the coating. This was a problem for me, but it was only on the bottom of the water feature. Because the bubbles did not affect the sides of the fountain, I believe this effect was caused by some acid that had not fully washed out of the fountain's bottom, which then reacted with the Pond Shield coating. 4. br>br> A roller works well with this product because it flows well and paints on like latex paint. In mild temperatures (75 degrees), and with a shaded work space, you have about 45 minutes to work. The final product has a smooth, high-gloss finish. Because the coating hardens in a few hours, keep the working area CLEAN and dust-free in the meantime unless you want grit embedded in your coating. br>br>I believe that's all there is to it; hopefully, this information will assist others in making informed decisions when using this product!.
This is a fantastic product, and I would have given it a higher rating if I hadn't encountered some minor issues. First and foremost, I am a skilled painter with experience in the restoration field, and I have thoroughly read the instructions before proceeding. Overall, the instructions were clear, and the measurement card provided for determining application thickness was accepted. This particular "tool" has a lot of flaws. br>br>The mixing process is straightforward and uncomplicated; however, at $80 per pint, one would expect a can of denaturalize Alcohol to be included in the "Complete" package. It's strange that it doesn't include all of the components of the mix, given that the products can't be used without them. The instructions state, "Do not make more than what can be completely used within a half hour or so. " br>br>The other two issues that made this experience difficult were that the instructions stated, "Do not make mix more than what can be completely used within a half hour or so. " " (or something similar). This is simply not true. 15 minutes is a good plan! To be honest, anyone who works with timed expirations such as these ALWAYS errs on the side of caution, and 15 minutes is a much better time frame. I wasted about half of the product during the two applications because the solution solidified completely between the time I poured a small amount, rolled three strokes, and returned for another pour. It happened in a flash. br>br>The last issue is with an unexpected yellow tint that developed in thicker build-up. br>br>So, even smaller batched than the instructions specify for minimal waste. br>br> up areas. I bought the clear product, and I got two cans (A and B). Along with the denaturalized alcohol, B) of the mix was clear. Unfortunately, as mentioned above and as shown in the accompanying photos, there is now a yellowish tint in areas where the application is thick. I don't recall reading anywhere that coats may cause the Pond Shield to discolor; two thin coats will provide a waterproof finish without yellow build-up. br>br>Aside from that, the product is excellent, laying down quickly and easily with a thin non-foam roller or a disposable brush. Use a "good" brush with non-drying bristles that you intend to discard after the first use. After the first pass, both the roller and the brush are useless. Depending on the weather and humidity, the drying process can be quite quick. It is essential to have mild, dry, shaded areas with adequate / sufficient lighting. Poor weather speeds up the drying process, resulting in nasty "booger balls" in your application strokes. I filled the fountains after 48 hours, and everything appears to be in good working order. After learning a lot from the first fountain, I ordered another batch for my second fountain.
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