Briggs & Stratton 49T877-0004-G1 Commercial Turf Series 27 Gross HP 810cc V-Twin with Cyclonic Air Filter and 1-1/8-Inch by 4-5/16

In my Craftsman 917, I have a 0016 engine. Tractor for the garden, model 289470. Except for a major birth defect that it had had its entire life, my tractor was in excellent condition. I knew the Kohler engine had always been weak, but the starter started clanking and clunking, and the mower had deteriorated to the point where it couldn't mow up a hill. You could either mow or go up a hill, but not both at the same time, according to a local small engine expert, who said the engine was only running on one cylinder and that rebuilding it would cost just under $2,000. He offered me $300 for the small tractor, with the intention of either rebuilding and selling the engine or replacing it himself. Because I'm handy, I took it home and ordered this engine. br>br>The engine swap was a simple bolt-on replacement. The old muffler was a perfect fit, the shaft pullies were a snap to install, and the electrical harness was a plug-and-play affair. in fit. There was no need for me to make any changes. The only difference was that the throttle and choke cables needed to go down the left side of the engine instead of the right side; they were long enough to simply move from the right side to the left side; in fact, the throttle cable was a little too long, so I had to tuck it under the dashboard creatively. br>br>The most important thing is to make sure the shaft diameter and length are the same. Because the engines on the majority of these garden tractors are manufactured by the same company, they are all identical. Your replacement should be simple, but you might need to purchase a new muffler. My old muffler fit perfectly; the trick is to loosely bolt the exhaust pipes to the engine, then mount the muffler on top of them before tightening them. br>br>In terms of the muffler, the tractor is much quieter now, even with the old muffler, which was much louder on the old Kohler engine, which was garbage from the start. I'm relieved that it's no longer there. My little garden tractor has a new soul and an insatiable desire to eat grass like it's never done before. Instead of selling it for $300 and then spending $3500 on a new one, I'm glad I gambled on a new engine for $1,000 and spent the two hours swapping them out.

Justin Stafford

| Sep 04, 2021

The block was destroyed by an old engine that broke a connecting rod. It was a simple process to get everything up and running. It was just a matter of moving the fuel line to the other side and fiddling with the muffler. Because the exhaust ports on the heads are a little further forward, the muffler requires a little more space in front to fit. To get everything to fit, all you have to do is bend some sheet metal a little. The only issue I had installing this was the muffler, but I was able to get it all to fit and button up. The engine is much more powerful and runs more smoothly than the intek. It's a nice replacement, but I still wish the old intek hadn't grenaded a rod because it was working fine before that. br>br>These engines should always have their oil level checked. When the old intek broke a rod, it was just below the full line but above the add line. Because of all the aluminum ground into the crank from the rod, I'm guessing it didn't get oil to that rod due to some uneven ground. I could have saved $1,000 by running the oil slightly higher and checking before mowing. I didn't think to check the oil after the first mowing because it had been changed and topped off. br>br>Overall, a much better engine than the intek; however, I'm concerned about the internals. Aluminum connecting rods and pushrods, which the intek used, are not my favorite materials.

Leighton Koch

| Jul 26, 2021

Cat ZT227 is a zero-turn catapult. This was used to repower a 2006ish bobcat ZT227 61" commercial zero turn; it has plenty of power and gets the job done, and it also fits under the bobcat's low hydraulic oil cooler. To make it work, I had to do a few things: br>br>

- The mower was originally equipped with a 27hp Kohler Command Pro engine that had thrown a rod; the original motor had a 1 1/8 shaft that measured 4 inches in length. The new engine has a longer shaft, but that's fine because when you stack the pulley on top of the assembled PTO, you get 4 3/8" and since the shaft length on the motor is 4-1/2", that's fine. The only thing I had to do was add three big washers to the shoulder bolt that tightens down the PTO because it was bottoming out before tightening down the pto/pulley, or you could just buy a new bolt with less of a shoulder.

- Rewire the starter engagement; the old kohler engine has a built-in starter solenoid; on the new solenoid, you'll need to wire in a Briggs style starter solenoid. a br>br>a br>br>a br>br>a br a small lead is connected to the groundbr>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br> One small lead connects to the wire that becomes hot when the ignition switch is turned on (yellow in my bobcat harness)br>br>c. The starterbr>br>d has a significant lead. The other big lead connects to the battery wire, and the other red smaller wire from the bobcat harness must connect to the same lug to keep all the relays and other components on the mower powered at a constant 12v.

- On the Briggs, the harness only has three wires: a br>br>a br>br>a br>br>a br The kill switch (white on bobcat harness) is on the black. br>br>b The red one (purple on bobcat harness) is from the alternator, which charges the battery. br>br>c. The gray wire goes to the fuel solenoid (interestingly, this SHOULD go to the green wire on the bobcat harness using my tester, but in my case I only got 10). 5v to this wire did not open the fuel solenoid, so I was not getting any gas to the carb and the engine would not start, so I hooked the gray wire from the briggs harness to the Orange wire coming directly off of the ignition switch, which is hot when the ignition is turned ON, and that worked for me)br>br>- The bobcat harness's black wires are all connected to ground. br>br>- The original muffler on the bobcat would not line up because it was too close to the engine control cables and the ports were slightly out of alignment; I could have cut/welded or bent it to make it work, but mine was rusty anyway, so I decided to buy Briggs part 696226 from Amazon, which worked fine on the bobcat and is nice and quietbr>br>- (optional) Buy this now to make oil changes easier in the future; it's a lot easier to put on now that there's no oil in the engine. 1723165SM Oil Drain Hose by Briggs & Stratton.

Dylan O’SULLIVAN

| Jun 13, 2021