Briggs & Stratton 31R907-0007-G1 500cc 17.5 Gross HP Engine with 1-Inch by 3-5/32-Inch Length Crankshaft Tapped 7-16-20-Inch
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The majority of riding mowers have a 1 inch shaft, and most older Sears mowers have a Briggs engine, which uses the same mounting bolt pattern as most Briggs higher hp engines. If your old engine has similar horsepower to this new one, I believe it should work. One issue I've discovered with the replacement engines is that the muffler interferes with the front body; I had to cut the body to make room for the exhaust; hopefully, this helps.
Check the pattern of bolt holes first. If that's correct, make sure the exhaust exits in the same place. Finally, make sure the charging circuit is in good working order. A dual circuit motor, which is typically older, and a tri circuit motor, which is more recent, are the two types. This is important because the alternator and regulator may be damaged.
I swapped the same engine as you and had to reuse my old muffler. I also had to change the alternator wiring from dual circuit to 9 amp regulated. To make the swap go more smoothly, I looked up a Briggs Stratton alternator repower guide pdf and bought a 692306 wiring harness.
Ours had a muffler on the side. I cut a hole in the side of the cowling to let the exhaust out.
Selected User Reviews For Briggs & Stratton 31R907-0007-G1 500cc 17.5 Gross HP Engine with 1-Inch by 3-5/32-Inch Length Crankshaft Tapped 7-16-20-Inch
This motor has a voltage regulator, whereas the one that was taken out didn't. The new motor's red wire connects with the lawnmower's red wire. I disconnected the red wire from the lawnmower's plastic plug, plugged the wires in, and tied them together. The orange wire should not be connected; instead, the black and gray wires from the lawnmower should be hooked up black to black and gray to gray. It is directed to the carburetor's Shutoff solenoid. Because the Briggs and Stratton Service Center will refer you to their local service guy, who may or may not charge you for this information, I'm telling you this. It's not my fault if you mess up; it's also not my fault if your lawnmower isn't the same as mine; and it's not my fault if you don't understand what I'm saying.
The item arrived in perfect condition and in its original packaging. I had no problems installing the new engine. I had no trouble repurposing my old engine self-tapping bolts. To make the tractor fit, I had to remove the supplied exhaust and replace it with the old engine's original muffler. Because my original engine had a dual circuit alternator and this one has a 9 amp regulated alternator, it may require electrical rewiring, as others have suggested. When I looked up Briggs Stratton alternator repower guide pdf on the internet, I was able to find some useful information. I ordered the 692306 wiring harness and repurposed the 399916 male harness from the old engine to avoid cutting and splicing the wire from the regulator/rectifier. (You must remove the diode from the old engine 399916 harness) This allowed me to keep the original wiring harness from the tractor intact. Black and white wires were straight connections. Youtube was helpful for engine swap out but not so much for alternator rewiring (repurposed old engine wires to avoid harness changes). I've had no problems with the engine after about 20 hours of use.
For the most part, the specs were the same; you don't get the same features as the more expensive engines, such as a fuel pump or an oil filter, but if you're looking for a replacement at a low price, this is the motor for you. When choked on cold startup, it chugs a little at first, but after a few seconds, it runs smoothly and starts great. If you're looking for a no-nonsense engine, this is it.
There was no schematic with the engine, only a generic manual. There is no filter for the oil. The wiring from a cub cadet to a Briggs had to be figured out. The muffler exhausts close to the plastic cover on my LTX1040, so it wasn't too difficult. Because it's melting, I'll need to make a deflector. I've only had it for 2 hours and it's been fine; after the initial 5 hour oil change, I'll tackle the really tough mowing job.
I had to replace a 31F707- 0112 E- 1 engine from a Sabre 1642HS model from 2001 or 2002. To repeat what the other reviewer said, it fits, but if you've never done this task before, you'll need to do some research, but it's not difficult. br>Remove the plastic cover from the engine and leave it off until everything (including the electrical) is connected and ready to start. br>Because of the fuel pump (which must also be reused from the old motor along with the pump mounting bracket), the old oil dipstick tube must be reused. br>Reuse the self-tapping mounting bolts. I'd never heard of threading before. br>Also, make sure the muffler and extender are removed and replaced with the old muffler pipe. Because of how close it was to the cowling, the new muffler started to melt it. br>I had to use the old electrical harness, but other than that, it was a straight swap. br>Before you start, make sure it's filled with oil! Overall, it took a newbie a little longer, but he or she could do it much faster the next time. The rest of the tractor is in good working order, so it's well worth the money.
1740 If I hadn't rebuilt the mower deck and PTO before the old engine died, I would have probably thrown it away. It went in without a hitch and was a perfect fit. The wiring was identical, but the connectors were different: the mower had a four-prong connector (only two of which were actually used), while the new engine had a two-prong connector. I got lucky and found a two-prong connector that fit in a junk box of spare mower parts. br>The engine starts up quickly and appears to have plenty of power.
For the price, it's a great engine that starts right up and starts mowing right away. I mounted it to a Toro zero-turn mower with a 42-inch cutting width. The only thing I had to do was use the old muffler, which worked perfectly. The one that came with the engine had a hole in the plastic cover and had to be replaced. So I knew it wouldn't work unless the cover was melted. It wasn't a big deal because the muffles were swapped.
The engine was brand new, but it had apparently been sitting on a shelf for six years before being sold. This was discovered after the coil burned out after about 20 hours of use. When I told the repair shop that it was brand new, they told me that because it was 6 years old, Briggs wouldn't warranty it. The shroud was also cracked from being dropped, and oil had leaked all over it when I unboxed it. Aside from that, it's fine (for the time being) and fits perfectly.
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