CURT 55106 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Fits Select Honda CR-V
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A tester is available for purchase. I have no idea who this is. However, I'm confident that Amazon, Napa, or a local auto parts store will. It has the same appearance as the plug, but it is illuminated by LEDs. It's extremely simple to use and is excellent for troubleshooting.
I don't recall turning off the power. Step-by-step, I carried out the instructions. step. The only issue was that the connection that needed to be separated was deeper behind the interior panel than I anticipated.
If this helps, the one I received was the correct one for my 2011 Honda CRV. Please accept my apologies for throwing away the package.
There's nothing else to do once it's connected, but using it for a trailer did shorten the life of the tail light fuse. It was, however, simple to modify.
Selected User Reviews For CURT 55106 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Fits Select Honda CR-V
Some car trim needs to be removed in order to install this wire harness. For this purpose, I ordered a car trim removal tool from Amazon, which worked perfectly. Before closing the trim, I used a multimeter to test the harness. A 4-pack of cigarettes is also available for purchase. This is why you should use a pin trailer harness tester. I haven't used this harness yet, but I plan on renting a U-Haul in the near future. This harness will be needed for a haul trailer. One con - The double-stick tape that came with it was not at all sticky. I attached the harness controller to the car body with a long zip tie (from my own stash). To keep the controller from slipping out of the zip tie, I wrapped it in soft foam before attaching it. A vibration will also be eliminated by using foam.
On a 2008 CR-V, the installation took ten minutes from start to finish. Remove tire cover, remove rear sill (2 clips and pop off), remove 1 clip on driver rear trunk panel at bottom, pop side panel out just a little bit, find white connector tied to wiring loom (blue tape around it), free that up and make connection, use provided double sided tape and affix wherever you want out of the way (I did inside of quarter panel), put everything back together. Because the wiring will not be harmed by the rear hatch, leave the connector and wire in the spare tire area and drape over the bumper when needed.
On our 2010 Honda CR-V, I added one of these. When I went to test the car, I discovered that my running lights and four-way flashers were both broken. This adapter was discovered to be the problem after troubleshooting (and replacing the blown fuses). When I stripped the wire back to splice it into the car's harness, I noticed that it wasn't the bright shiny copper color one might expect, but rather a nearly black color. br>br>BTW, as a service manager at a large RV dealer, I installed this type of equipment professionally for nearly 20 years. This was not a faulty installation. Just to be sure, I double-checked!.
Honda could have used an extra 2 feet of wire to make the installation go much more smoothly. Honda could also have drilled a hole in the spare tire well and inserted a rubber plug to allow the wire to be run to the outside instead of out the hatch door and draping it over the bumper.
This kit is nice; Honda includes a plug to connect to, but it's hidden behind the LH rear quarter panel. It's not difficult to gain access; just take your time carefully removing the pins and clips so they don't break. The directions were simple and straightforward. This was combined with the Draw-It-Out-Of-It-Of-It-O On our CR-V, we have a tie hitch. The installation was very neat.
On the Honda CRV, it is very simple to install. To remove car plastics, you don't need any fancy tools; I simply used a screwdriver covered in a rag to avoid scratches. Because a video for my specific car and model was available on YouTube, your mileage may vary in terms of installation success. This connection is nothing special; you get exactly what you see, and it works. After ten uses, the wire and pins are still functional, and the price is low enough to replace them if they become damaged. . . which they will, no matter which one you buy or how careful you are!.
It took me about 10 minutes, the majority of which was spent trying to open the wheel shroud so I could expose the receptacle. It was almost directly above my driver's side rear wheel. I plugged it in, moved the black control box to a secure location, and hid it in plain sight. The connector was then inserted beneath the shroud, and the shroud was pressed back into place. br>br>I didn't even bother to read the instructions.
15 - Gaining access and installing the wiring harness took 30 minutes. Disassembling the factory fasteners is the most time-consuming task. The stretch behind the partially removed interior panel to connect to an unused factory wiring connector is the most challenging activity. All set. It did exactly what it said it would do.