Martin Yale SP100 Score and Perforating Machine, 23 Sheets Per Minute, Will Score or Perforate Sheets From 24lbs Bond to 100lbs Cover Stock, Fully Adjustable Paper Guides

This Martin was bought by my parents The Yale SP100 scoring machine and the Yale perforating machine (right here on Amazon) for their small printing company. Specifically, it was the print job that caused the purpose to be created making custom tear-off labels In the off-season This kind of product is good for companies who need to give employees in the field who take orders a form that has spots for all the necessary information (to remind them to collect all the required There are two issues with this machine for perforating tablets like this first, the adjustment set screw for the friction wheel on the perforation side is on the wrong side, so it's hard to perforate close to the paper edge. One of the other problems is that the perforation blade cuts into a groove, so the pages tend to become thicker after perforating, so the stack of pages may need to be pressed to ensure uniform thickness. Another issue is that a slitting (cutting) wheel would be better than a scoring wheel for our purposes, since it would allow us to make two little tablet sheets from one letter sized sheet. I'm Martin - A Yale company sells such a wheel for this machine, but recommends that any replacement of a wheel be handled by a qualified technician. Below are some alternatives if you choose not to heed this advice. You have a chance to win a $20 Amazon gift card The black cover of the scoring and perforating wheels can be easily removed in a video on YouTube suggesting that you can do so. This is what I found I had a lot of trouble installing the sheet metal screws when it needed to be replaced, and I was surprised that I didn't twist them in half. These issues aside, the machine works as it is supposed to and offers a substantial decrease in labor time as well as an improvement in speed over perforating with a perf wheel on a hand-held Furthermore, the customer commented that perforated sheets perforated by this machine do not come apart as easily as those perforated by a hand trimmer. Last but not least, the price is reasonable. Despite our search, we couldn't find a piece of equipment that even attempted to feed sheets through and perforate them at a lower price. In Part II, we will move on to The following operations violated my warranty and caused me to kill myself. I survived, but I cannot guarantee that you will also come out of them alive. In the event you attempt to follow these instructions, you must understand that neither I nor anyone else accept any responsibility for any damage you do to yourself or your perforator, or to anything else in the universe, if following these instructions is attempted. There are four sheet metal screws that need to be replaced with #10-sized screws A machine screw has 32 threads. Here are the items available on Amazon Supply I tried to link to Amazon Supply using a product link, but it is not working. The plate should be removed, and the holes in the plate should be drilled to 13/64" and the taps tapped (here's an inexpensive tool for this) 2) the holes for #10-sized bullets in the machine Each thread can handle 32 tasks. With a small cordless drill, I got the job done. It is a good idea to vacuum out all the metal shavings before reassembling The cover is being installed. Metal shavings are rarely found in such a large quantity among the internal components of equipment, and the SP100 isn't one of them. It is possible to turn the side friction wheel of the perforator so that you can perforate closer to the edge of the The shafts will need to be removed for this to be done. To do this correctly, remove both shafts at the same time. It is impossible to remove the perforator blades one at a time because there is no clearance between the blades and the grove in the hub opposite that blade. You are likely to break four of the tines, as I did the first time. You are likely to break four of the tines. Disconnect the machine from its power source and switch it off. Removing the black plate is the first thing to do. 1. 2. 3. The two screws holding the drive belt cover to the drive belt are removed using a 1/8" hex wrench. The fourth point. It will be easier to put the drive belt back on if you take a digital photo of it. Five point five. Pull the belt from the drive shaft. You can remove the shafts of the 12T Pulley by loosening the set screws of the shafts with a 5/64" hex wrench. I. 7. Push both shafts at the same time to make sure the ends are no longer held together by the holes but instead go inside the machine. This note states It is not, in fact, an external retaining ring on the other side. It is the plastic edges of the grommets that rest on the shafts. As you pull the shafts towards you, gently take the shaft ends out of the grommets on the front of the machine and gently fold them down the shafts until they are freed from the grommets on the rear of the machine I'm driving on the left foot. #9. Now that the shafts have been removed, you can put them back in. It is possible to take the friction wheels off, flip them around, and put them back so the rubber gets closer to the perforation blade by loosening the set screws (using the 3/32" hes wrench supplied). If a damaged perforating wheel needs to be replaced, you can replace it. If necessary, you can install the 7 tooth per inch perforating wheel (WRA03085B) instead of the 14 tooth per inch perforating wheel (WRA03085D). Alternatively, the scoring wheel can be removed and a slitter installed (WRA03085A) the scoring backup hub can be switched out for a It may be fun for some to score a lot, but for me slitting (=cutting, =trimming) is This is
9. This note states There isn't a machine-solution hub for the above, but I could find it on Amazon. We were able to get them for a significant discount off the list price on their website when ordering via phone. Okay, now that the shafts have been modified, it's time to re-calibrate They are easy to install. The non-profit group should be put The ends of the shafts are driven into grommets on the non-contact surfaces Putting one on the drive side and the other on the passenger side together. As you can see, this is the tedious part by which you have the blades on the top shaft indexed with the grooves in the backup hubs on the bottom shaft, otherwise you will not be able to insert them later. The

11th point. If you have pushed forward far enough, then you need to put the drive ends through the grommets on the drive side and then gently pry the shafts out to their original places. Check to see if you possess what you are looking for before continuing. Check that each of the parts on the top shafts is lined up with its counterpart on the bottom shafts. The set screws for the items on both shafts should all face forward at the same time, so that you can easily adjust them later. 12. . . Put the 12T Pulleys on each shaft, making sure to fasten the set screw to the flat part of the shaft, and that the part of the pulley that is engaged with the belt lines up with the part of the other pulleys that are still installed on the machine. Install the belt again, checking your digital photo to assure that it's in the right place. The fourteenth item. Remove the cover from the drive assembly and reinstall it. The fifteenth point. (See how I'm about to talk about the need for proper machine screws?) Fit the front plate back on.

Rosalee Jennings

| Jan 20, 2021