PT-4025-00 : Black TUSQ XL Slab 1/4"
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Questions & Answers
The following are the specifications: 5"x. 25"x. 4370". It's a fantastically large blank.
Yes, the 4025 slab that is oversize can be shaped. For a classical guitar, this slot has been created.
To make it fit, shape it.
The 4025 is a large nut slab that could be modified to work with a Yamaha APX.
Selected User Reviews For PT-4025-00 : Black TUSQ XL Slab 1/4"
I've been a fan of Graphtech for a long time, but this particular item has disappointed me. I needed a blank to make a new nut for my guitar because it has a unique shape. This item appears to be fantastic at first glance. A substantial portion of their work. However, as I sand it down further, I discover voids. The further I travel, the more I will come across areas where nothing exists. Because there is no material to shape, if these spots coincide with where the strings are, it will be useless and unfixable.
I needed to make a nut 0 and I didn't know how. Thickness of 239" That should be fine with a 1/4 inch blank. Nope. It would be too thin if you sanded it flat and true because the sides are so deformed. In comparison to other tusq xl nuts I've installed, I was also underwhelmed by its performance. Despite the fact that it's supposed to be 500 times slicker than graphite, I had to chapstick and graphite the nut slots to keep the strings from sticking. Why did that work if it was slicker? This does not match up after I installed a few tusq nuts and even used a preslotted and cut it down to use as a blank. I purchased this expecting it to deliver the same results as previous purchases, but it did not.
It was supposed to be a 1200 slotted nut, but it wasn't quite tall enough. I sanded it to size on a table with a piece of sandpaper, stepped up through the grits until I got a nice smooth matte finish, then slotted it with a small triangular file, and it worked out perfectly. This project would take 15 minutes if you had a disc sander and fret files. With sandpaper and a file, and the old nut as a template, it probably only took me 30 minutes. The subject matter appeals to me.
If you're a serious electric guitarist or bassist, you now have the knowledge that Graphtech Tusq XL nuts (in ivory or black) are the best on the market. down, the best nuts available, because I've tried every material in the book in an attempt to make a nut that's hard and dense while still allowing a string to slide freely through its slot. The majority of today's luthiers will tell you that bone is the best, but 20-year-old luthiers will tell you otherwise. They would have recommended brass with a small amount of graphite (i. e. , brass with a small amount of graphite) 30 years ago. Because brass has a lot more mass than bone, it should add to the overall stability. Graphtech Tusq XL (make sure to get the one with "XL" in the name) is a super-durable material. It's dense, easy to work with, and has inherent lubricant properties that almost guarantee your strings won't "catch" on a chipped slot or become obstructed in any other way, allowing you to bend notes to your heart's content without fear of your instrument going out of tune. If I have a whammy bar installed, I don't even use locking nuts/tuners anymore, which should say something. Simply visit their website and learn more about it - All of this is correct, and best of all, the price is reasonable. br>br>I own more than 15 basses, and every one of them now has a Graphtech Tusq XL nut installed. Do not purchase the pre-recorded version. Because the width and depth of a nut slot are determined by the string type/gauge, slotted varieties are popular. Buy the extra-large slabs (they come in packs of ten if you call the manufacturer) and have your luthier create a custom nut that matches your instrument and strings perfectly. You will not be disappointed, I assure you.
A blank for the saddle of an acoustic guitar. I like the look and feel of it, and it's simple to cut, shape, and sand. It also looks a lot cooler than standard bone/plastic. I used it on a 000 steel string acoustic I made myself, but I was confident in the product because it's also used on two Furch steel strings I own. That alone should suffice as a recommendation.
Years ago, I used bone, but bone is brittle and can chip. I was having problems with bad bone blanks, so I decided to give this a shot. I was blown away by how quickly it was to file and machine, how well it sanded and polished, and how similar it sounded to bone. The only drawback is the burnt rubber smell it emits when sanding, but compared to the odor bone emits, this is a pleasant alternative. I also like that it's black; I've used bone in a number of guitars and would have preferred it to be black. In fact, I'm pretty sure I'll be using these all of the time from now on.
It has notches in it, and the length is completely incorrect. There was a lot of mislabeling.
I needed a new nut for my 1956 Gretsch, and this material worked out perfectly. Patience and precision are required when cutting a nut from a blank. As a template, I used an old nut. This resource assisted me in resolving an issue with intonation. Because the strings are no longer bound up at the nut, the guitar stays in tune for longer and tunes more accurately. As a result, even the tiniest movement of the tuning machine affects the string pitch.
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