Fender LSR Roller Nut - Brushed Chrome
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1 3/8" or 35 is the distance between E and E. 5mm
I'm not sure because I used it on a 9-point scale. 5" - radius of ten inches
They aren't available in gold, but I had mine gold plated by a local jeweler, and it turned out beautifully!
The nut slot needs to be increased in size.
Selected User Reviews For Fender LSR Roller Nut - Brushed Chrome
However, it is recommended that it be installed by a professional. For many years, I've been restoring and upgrading guitars (so this upgrade is simple for me). br>br>This is most likely one of the best technical guitar nuts on the planet. String contact is minimal, and the strings move independently and fluidly through the nut during string bends and heavy whammies because they ride on top of/between a pair of ball bearings (per string). The sustain is incredible, and any snagging between the nut and the tuners is eliminated. While this will fit and work perfectly on guitars with fixed-string pickups, it will also fit and work perfectly on guitars with adjustable-string pickups. On guitars with tremolo bars, I would prefer to upgrade the bridges. IMPORTANT: br>br> If you are a beginner or novice, it is recommended that you have this installation done by a professional luthier. The fretboard must be cut to install this bridge as a replacement for a plastic/bone nut. You don't want to make any mistakes here because fixing them will be expensive. A mistake could ruin your guitar depending on its type. Because this nut isn't adjustable, you'll need to be very careful when positioning it (. 001 inch), or your guitar's tone and tunability will most likely be affected.
The FSR nut looks fantastic and appears to be a work of art, but it isn't quite as impressive in practice. I used very fine files and micrometers to mark and measure every step of installation using the instructions, but something isn't quite right. Everything looked great because I was able to get a good tight fit. Then I drilled screw holes and mounted the nut, but it wants to sit at an angle that is not the same as the cut. When I examined the nut, I discovered that the ball retainers prevent the nut from sitting flush on the bottom, forcing it to sit level across the cut rather than the dimension Fender specifies. The same thing happens when I fill in screw holes and drill holes at a slight angle. Now I'm debating whether to use wood putting to fill in the small gap or just call it a day. I wish I had used a bone nut or another aftermarket nut so that all I had to do now was make the nut fit the groove rather than the nut fitting the groove.
It's not "required," but when used in conjunction with locking tuners like these, it's a great addition.
Although I did not have all of the necessary tools and am not a professional craftsman, the installation went smoothly. If you prepare ahead of time, know how to work with wood, and don't rush, the tuning stability will be well worth your time. When I bought it, it was a good guitar, a high-end Mexican Strat. It's now on par with high-end American Strats in terms of sound quality. $1,200 was spent on the guitar. When I bought it, I paid $2,500 for Colorado EMG pickups. Fender tuners ($85), and a Fender guitar ($100). 00), and string trees that aren't bound together (12). 00) and this nut, and it's now always in tune. It was well worth the upgrades because of the tone, playability, and fact that it's my version of a strat.
It was only a matter of time, as the balls had become clogged after so many years of gigging. You'll love it if you use it on a guitar that doesn't have a roller nut. It includes all of the necessary shims as well as a spacer plate for installation on certain guitars. I wish my other guitars had it; perhaps I'll just put it on one of these days.
I replaced the roller nut and locking tuners on all of my Fenders. This is a must-have option for Tremolo guitars, and it improves tuning stability significantly. I have two American strats, an American Telecaster, and a Fender Jaguar, all with roller nuts and Schaller locking tuners (with the exception of the Telecaster, which has Stetsbar). This is how they should have been built by Leo Fender. Installation. br>br> I'm a certified luthier in Georgia, so I shouldn't have any problems. You may need to remove the old nut, depending on what you're installing it in. A cheap plastic nut is epoxied in by some manufacturers. A slight tap of a fret hammer will release the nut on a better installation. Before you remove the old nut, score it on all sides with an exacto knife. Tearout of rosewood or ebony will be avoided as a result of this. On some Fenders, you might not be able to mount the back of the nut because there isn't enough wood. They provide you with a plastic platform to use in this case. The instructions specify a 51 drill bit, and you must use the correct drill bit or the screws will be broken. I place the bit in a pin vise, mark the depth with tape, and drill by hand using the pin vise. This will keep the drilling from going too far. Make sure you don't invert the nut before installing it without covering the grooves with tape to keep the ball bearings inside; I've had two escape in the roughly ten installs I've done, not counting my personal guitars. If you're unsure, have it repaired by a professional. Another thing to consider is that The nut slot is supposed to be made bigger, according to the instructions. I strongly advise you to do it by hand, and I use a nut slot file and exacto saws to do so. These can be found at luthier supply shops. I would never recommend using a router in the nut slot for a beginner.
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