Yellow Jacket Solid State Tube Rectifier

If you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, this is the place to be. If you've ever used a tube rectifier in a tube amp, you're probably already aware of how it affects your tone, so please forgive me if the first part of this review is redundant. Tube sag occurs when voltage is converted from AC to DC before reaching the power tubes. Tube rectifiers can thus be compared to your car's fuel injector. When you press down on the gas pedal, the injector can only deliver a certain amount of fuel. The same can be said about tube rectifiers - They can only "inject" (covertly) a certain amount of voltage - As a result, when voltage demands are high, such as when playing massive chords or bass notes, the "sag sound" is the amp "accelerating" (to continue the car analogy). To put it another way, you've got a low-cost option on your hands. Your tone will sound loose and flubby at the end, giving it a lot of warmth. The voltage conversion is (relatively) instantaneous with Solid State Rectifiers because they are not limited by the limitations of vacuum tubes. The Outcomes. br>br> The tightness of my AC30 has improved dramatically. My pick attack is more transparent now that the amp has the thump of a Marshall. The Yellow Jacket SS rectifier fit easily and snugly into the tube slot and that was that, aside from being a pain to install (AC30's are NOT service friendly), and that was that. The second reason I got a SS rectifier is that AC30s get hot, and the CC2 series in particular slams the GZ34/5AR4 with a little too much voltage when the standby switch is flipped. So, in addition to improved tone, my amp is now set up for improved electrical efficiency (which means less internal wear and tear).

Sasha CONNOLLY

| Feb 07, 2021

Any vacuum tube rectifier can be replaced with this solid state rectifier, which I prefer. None of the other reviews I've read mention a VERY IMPORTANT piece of advice printed on the back of the very small Yellow Jacket owner's advice booklet - The high voltage DC in your amp will turn on instantly if you simply plug it in instead of a vacuum tube rectifier. Your power tubes, on the other hand, aren't up to the task. Power tubes with cold cathodes will be damaged if they are exposed to full DC voltage. Solution? Install a "standby" switch to allow for a warmup period, perhaps 30 to 60 seconds, so that the cathodes of the other tubes are already warm when the Yellow Jacket's DC voltage is applied. It will be simple for any good old-fashioned person to figure out the specifics of that. geek of time electronics: Find a friend who is one if you aren't one. I added a two-way switch to my amplifier. Both sides of the 670 volt AC transformer winding that feeds the rectifier tube's two anodes have a pole switch.

Dior Pearce

| May 15, 2021

To tighten up the bottom end and eliminate a point of failure in my Marshall JTM45 clone, I installed this. It really works. Your tube's behavior WILL be altered as a result of this. amp that has been rectified At high volumes, it will become stiffer and less compressed, so if you want something that acts more like a tube, I recommend a Weber Copper Cap. But I knew exactly what I was getting, and it works perfectly for me.

Graham GARDINER

| Mar 25, 2021

I installed it in my Orange AD30 single channel head from 2003 to see if I could reduce low-end sag. I learned to play on a vintage Brownface Fender with an SS rectifier when I was a kid, so I'm used to that tight low end. In my opinion, the Orange has greatly improved as a result of this. I mostly play chords and don't do much with lead guitar. This is a great $18 investment!.

Araceli Kemp

| Nov 08, 2021

br>br>It'll also give your Vibrolux Reverb a little more headroom. br>br>Do not, under any circumstances, use one of these in a Princeton Reverb - unfavorable news It's too much for the Princeton to handle.

Ari Kirk

| Nov 09, 2021

NOTE: Don't just toss it in there and hope for the best. You'll have to re-evaluate your situation. Your amplifier should be biased. Without the need to re- As a result of the bias, your tubes will almost certainly be far hotter than they should be. br>br>Because tone is subjective, I'm hesitant to give it a rating based on how I perceive it. Furthermore, this is merely a device that controls the flow of electricity to an amplifier's tubes. Even if it performs flawlessly, because the amp circuit was not designed for diode rectification, the tone may deteriorate (in some amps). br>br>However, my experience was as follows: The tone of the amp has changed significantly. I'm experimenting with it in a Marshall JTM45 clone from 1966. It sounds brighter and more aggressive, which is usually the goal when switching to diode rectification. I'm undecided about whether or not I like it. Many things are beginning to sound better. The articulation of the strings is better. Perhaps improved touch sensitivity as well. The chords in classic rock sound crisper and growl a little more. On the downside, there's a lot more ice-pick in the ear brightness that I haven't yet figured out how to turn off. br>br>With some treble tweaking and possibly beam-forming, it's possible. This will be a huge improvement if the speakers have blockers on them. I'm guessing I'll find out in a few weeks.

Wyatt Schwartz

| Jan 12, 2021

To reform capacitors in old tube amplifiers, I use it in combination with a variac. Solid state rectifiers produce DC voltage right away, whereas tube rectifiers do not until the filament is sufficiently heated. This enables you to reform caps by starting variac at a very low setting. Starting at 5% and increasing by 5% every hour For this job, it's a must-have.

Shelby Gordon

| Nov 27, 2021

nice.

Aurelia Spears

| Nov 21, 2021