Graph Tech TUSQ XL 1/4" Epiphone Slotted Nut
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In general, manufacturers set up their operations as follows I pick up new guitars with low gauge strings that are high enough to guarantee no buzzing at first fret, but low enough to allow easy playing. Company of Guitars. Unknown destinations are left behind in the factory. Leaving the action a bit high is the best course of action. You shouldn't file the nut too low or else it will be out of round. In the EBG side of the e, the E should appear. A gap of approximately 16 (between the fret and string) should be found on the E side and approximately 17 on the head side. Thanks for reading. I hope this helps you. You can reach out to me for more information if you need it. Greetings, my name is
Most likely, this will work. It is advisable to compare the current nut measurements with those listed in the listings to ensure that they are compatible.
As part of my upgrades to a 2004 Epiphone Sheraton, I utilized this product. I did have to give it some shaping to get the height exactly right, but it was easily accomplished. I was delighted with the final outcome!
There is no way for me to know.
Selected User Reviews For Graph Tech TUSQ XL 1/4" Epiphone Slotted Nut
In both sizes, Epiphone Les Paul nuts are available in different In order to order new replacements for older Epiphones (2014 and older), you need the Graph Tech TUSQ XL PQL-55. The 6060-area code In order to order Graph Tech's TUSQ XL PQL-2015 and newer, you need to order Graph Tech's TUSQ XL-PQL-2016 Item 6061 Then you will need to add an AG after6060 The 6060-area code The AG), for older EPIDs Please take note My visit to the GraphTech website did not reveal a PQL-numbered page Item 6061 For Epiphones with newer nut sizes, this is called AG (aged nut). The only thing they show is The 6060-area code 2014 and older epi's are covered by AG.
Despite my best efforts to install it, I put it off for nearly two My knowledge of lutherie is rather limited, and I was worried that I might mess up Tune your guitar up. I upgraded instead the tuners and pickups (Lindy Fralin-- There should be no substitutes for these). It took me a while to realize that the nut was the last upgrade left, so I gritted my teeth and finished it. In the end, the process took less than an hour, and I was very satisfied with the final As for the nut slots, I did not have to file them, which I found amazing (I am using 10 splines, The guitar seems to sound better, but that might just be my imagination. I should have known better than to wait 2 years. So don't wait It's likely that you can do this mod as well if I am able to do it. It's just a matter of doing.
There is a Harley Benton triple SG guitar in my collection. I replaced the plastic nut with this one, which solved the tuning issues caused by the plastic nut. I also added graphtech saddles to the bridge. new nuts are taller than the stock nuts. Once you figure out how to remove the old nut, you will then be able to install the new one. Placing some 120-grit sandpaper on a flat surface with the sand side up will allow you to make the surface smoother. Old nut should be placed side by side with the new nut and marked so you know how much to remove. Once the speaker is on you will not only enjoy the experience of re intonating it, but you will also be enjoying pure enjoyment. As the radius of the radial curve of the G string is very close, I had to modify the string in order to make it You should plan on spending a few hours replacing the nut and attempting to re-intone the instrument. If your string gauge is the same, you will be able to stay on track once you've done this. As the bridge can sometimes move around, I still make sure that intonation is correct every time a string is changed.
Shaped ones, sanding will take care of them in no time). In terms of string spacing and all of that, they are an ideal fit for Epiphones. I do not believe this is a plug-and-play scenario They give you a head start in shaping it to a certain shape, but play on regardless. For those who desire deeper nut slots, they should cut them to the desired depth, remove a little material from the top and sides, as well as from the depth, and then polish it If you want the same thing as Uo-nut files, you should check out the Grizzly nut files available on Amazon in Japan The Chikyu system. For those gauges, you can also order them from Japarts in custom sizes. I like doing business with CA (nice people). Even though you should be familiar with all that stuff if you plan on doing it yourself, you'll also need depth gauges and other things too if you want The software works perfectly once it has been installed properly. If you're really diving into the differences as I do, I would say that on the high open strings you do get slightly less clarity tone than you would on some other materials. In practice, however, since the slotted nut is well positioned, and binding won't be an issue, it sounds as good as any other material. Neither I nor anyone I know is able to comment on the long-term usability of this material, but then again, these are so easy to work with and so inexpensive that I am not worried. I can slot one of these slotted nuts to what I need, shape it, polish it, glue it, all in less than an hour, and I'm not a professional maker at all just a guy who has learned from books and YouTube and forums over time.
They make them a little bigger than OEM so that you can grind it to fit on the Graph Tec website. It did have to be sanded down about 1/16" on the ends and about 1/32" on the width in order to sanded gradually using a vibrating sander and 120 grit paper, taking only a little off each time, then checked After I went in the last time, the width was too narrow, and I left it a bit loose, but that is fine. When I do the next string change, I will glue it in place. Just the tension of the string keeps it in place. It seems to be more stable to tune with the Bigsby vibrato.
I've played around with it a little. My goal was to test the action, so I didn't grind any off the height of the nut so that I could test it afterward. The action is just a touch less than the OEM, but very close to the OEM.
Although it is a bit too large, I think that was my fault as I mistakenly ordered the wrong size. I got this for finally changing out the nut of one of those "Chibson's" that I bought to learn how to do upgrades and It finally happened after five years of owning this guitar that the nut started to wear out. Trying to get rid of the buzz, I had to cut down the string so much that it is cutting into the plastic nut. It was beyond ready for an upgrade after I took the strings off, and I just lightly pushed on the nut and it fell right off. I just found it a little too wide across the neckline but it fit perfectly otherwise. This is great. I just used a little super glue and clamped it for about an hour or so, strung it up and it works like a charm. It might be time to upgrade that "Chibson" or Epi, Harley or similar ride. To get it, you must crack this nut.
The world has changed so much in just a few years, so this came very fast for me. My excitement is building as I wait for this to be My only suggestion would be to contact the company directly and ask to speak with a representative. Get the correct length for your guitar by understanding how the measurements work. It changes the operation of your guitar a great deal whenever you use these Graph Tech TUSQ nuts. In my experience, it does not affect my tone at all, but the tuning function is pretty awesome, and I would suppose my ability to adjust the intoneation of my strings is quite good as well. Lastly, I would like to mention that it was a great price and that it was shipped really fast. Thanks, and I will definitely buy it again in the future. With my job at home, I have the opportunity to upgrade my instruments and develop as a musician.
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