Bridge Clamp
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Make sure the holes don't get bigger! The smaller bolts and nuts that screw into the bridge will help the work go smoothly. If the bridge is completely detached from the body, take it to a hardware store so they can size it.
Greetings, and thank you very much I am sure you will find more information on the recommended use of the Bridge Clamping Jig in the following instructions. Please let me know if you have any further During drilling, place the bridge in the correct position and hold it securely until the one and six positions have been drilled. You need to drill a hole There is a hole of 18" or 3/16" inch at the one and six position in the bridge In the body, electrolytes are carried through different levels (high and low E). Please note As you are installing the top and bridge, you need to thread the screws as tightly as possible. Please note In order to achieve better clearance, do not drill larger holes for the bridge pins since they will later sit too deep inside of the bridge. Make sure to scuff sand the back side of the bridge with 80 or 100 grit paper. The back of the bridge should be wiped with Acetone to remove the natural oil from the wood so the glue adheres properly. Ensure that the outer screws of the clamp are seated flush against the back of the clamp...so that they do not protrude. Thread the one and six positions of the bridge to the back of the clamp and then insert the center screws through the clamp. Place glue onto the bridge, keeping it away from the two screws by about an 1/8". Make sure the screws are threaded beyond approximately 1/8 inch of the bridge on the center part of the screws*. Please make sure you are holding the bridge and the clamp by the center two screws, and that the bridge is pointing the right way. Set the 2 screws in the holes drilled in the guitar top and land the bridge.
Use the allen wrench provided to thread the screws all the way down to the clamp, making sure it's positioned on top of the bridge and securing the wingnuts on the inside of To create pressure to help the glue to squeeze out minimally, cut two thin pieces of wood and place them on the ends (wings) of the bridge. Make sure you tighten the end screws lightly, but firmly, to create pressure. This is important YOU DON'T WANT TO OVERTIGHTEN THE END SCREWS AS THIS WILL CAUSE THE TOP TO CRACK! It is best if you don't wipe the glue, but instead let it dry for about 15 minutes Within twenty You can use a sharp chisel with the bevel down to carefully get underneath the soft glue bead and raise With this method, the ultimate finish will be improved and the chance of "glue haze" in the finish later will be reduced.
No reason would exist for this not to happen. No matter how you clamp, a clip that is too tight will lead to In order to reglue the bridge, the saddle piezo always needs to be removed and reinstalled. Charlotte Guitar Clinic. Please click here
For classical guitars, I don't think this clamp will work. There seems to be an emphasis here on steel string drednoughts, but ask your distributor in case it applies to other types of vessels.
Selected User Reviews For Bridge Clamp
I found it to be a very neat device that worked really As the two middle screws on the bridge are large, I used a washer on the underside to spread the pressure over a larger area than where wing nuts were used. There was a little concern that the glue would not be able to be pushed out of the peg hole and I would be unable to undo the wing nut. glue doesn't bond with the metal, and although it took a bit of force to remove the wing nut, I was able to do it without damage to the wood. It took me a pair of pliers to loosen the screw post because I could not get a good grasp on the black head to turn It was no problem twisting/unscrewing the screw post from the glue after I was able to twist/turn the screw a quarter of a turn using the piyers. Next, I cleaned out the peg hole with a tapered reamer between 1/8 and 1/2 inch. If the peg pin has a taper, it's best to use a tapered reamer. Although you can use a drill bit, a tapered reamer will give you a better fit. Put some cardboard or small pieces of wood under the wing points, as noted in an earlier review. As a result, the friction will be distributed more evenly and the bridge's end will be less likely to be damaged.
Using this simple replacement clamp, I've replaced an acoustic bridge in no time. As a precaution, I used a big C clamp during the glue drying process, but this may not have been necessary. In addition to exerting a considerable force, the clamp is quite sturdy as well.
As advertised, this product delivered what was promised. It would have been helpful if there had been a little instruction for the newbie, but with some glue (Tite Bond) and this clamp tool, I was able to repair the bridge on my acoustic guitar. There is only one flaw in my opinion - the middle clamps should have been reversed so they would be easier to unscrew. To remove them from the inside of the hole, I had to use smaller hands and pliers in order to remove the screws that had become slightly stripped and the excess glue that was stuck to the screws. We were able to finish it perfectly once we sorted it out.
According to the reviews, the pins are in a good position on 12-inch, but none of them addressed how they would line up An object. Still, I ordered it, crossing my fingers that it will work since it was a better concept The product fulfilled its stated purpose, and the only caveats were those that other reviewers had already mentioned, like the need to place cardboard beneath It was the best decision I could have made Taking the time to reattach a bridge was my first time, and it went smoothly.
is well made, but it is not stiff enough for use and deflects quite a bit. C is added to the end Since I had clamps on both the body and bridge I knew there would be good conformance.
Intended for the purpose, the product is an ideal design and ideal product. For its intended purpose it is a good product, but the drawback is the lack of safe bases on the ends. Considering that the guitar bridge is made of wood, I have to pay a lot of attention because without it, a pressure mark is left on the bridge.
It was overpriced and cost way too I had to add a spacer to make it work. This could be a five-star kit if it had a more complete set.
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