Vestil FJB-16 Basement Floor Jack, 12" - 16" Height Range, Maximum Height Capacity (lbs.) 9738, Minimum Height Capacity (lbs.) 9738
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Although not necessarily, these jacks must have a firm foundation or they may become stuck in soft soil, causing their in conjunction with settling. Usually, crawl spaces under structures are damp - hence, the need to install them on a firm basis. You may try this method assuming your area does not have a hard ground or rocks. For the piers, you can use precast concrete piers, which can usually be purchased at most building supply stores, or crushed stone with a concrete block cap leveled in the stone bed. To dig a bowl, make sure you dig a hole for the stone or concrete block The stone holding place needs to be large enough to hold about 4 to 6 inches of stone larger than the concrete blocks or piers. If you are putting weight on piers or blocks, make sure they are leveled. In general, these jacks are not intended to measure or replace permanent house piers, but to stiffen or level floor joists that have settled. To lift and stiffen an existing floor, I used about 10 jacks to support 4 x 6 treated beams. *The short answer is that the jacks do not need to have poured footings, but they do need to have footings that can distribute If they are placed on the ground without some sort of support, they should not be left unattended. They have been used both ways for me Footings are poured for the heaviest loads, with gravel for the lighter loads Footings made from block for areas that are lighter in weight. Thank you for your help.
There will be a bend in the rod used to turn the jack. Using a cheater pipe, I bent the bolts, and I also bought some grade 8 bolts to replace the old ones. Even though I did not know how heavy the house was, the jack was able to support it. Since I could only turn the screw to a certain extent, the amount of weight I could lift was limited. Similarly, if you are using 12-inch lifts, it will be easier It may be tempting to screw it all the way out, but not with a load on it, because the threaded shaft is only four or five inches long.
Do not let yourself get too close to the end of the lift. Adjustment bars are cheap and prone to bending. In all other respects, this satisfies my needs and hasn't moved once I had it
A metric system
Selected User Reviews For Vestil FJB-16 Basement Floor Jack, 12" - 16" Height Range, Maximum Height Capacity (lbs.) 9738, Minimum Height Capacity (lbs.) 9738
Having a small, old rental house with sagging / uneven floors, a horizontal crack in the front floor beam caused by an earthquake, and shifting sill plates is not ideal. This screw jack set was purchased to raise droopy areas of the roof and support drooping areas so that reinforcing beams could be installed and to attach plates to keep things in place. Others were moved around as necessary. Some are permanent, others will be left in place for a long time. Using them is easy, because the top plate pivots a little bit to account for uneven surfaces (like gravel) The screw jack has holes at both the top and bottom that can be used to secure it to the beams if necessary. The bar that turned the screw did not pose any problems to us The fact that yours bends suggests you are trying to lift more than they are designed to handle. It was a small house (1 story, 900 square feet) and we were able to noticeably lift the house 1/4 inch (door alignment changed). Having a support system in place makes the floors much less bouncy, and I feel better knowing this is in place.
Despite their sturdy build, these supports are not jacks, but only supports. There are some jack stands that have threads with a rectangular section to allow you to turn them with a large nut I purchased these because I had none of the sturdy ones, so these will work. The threads on these are turned using a small metal rod that goes through a hole in the rod. Despite the fact that these supports seem to be able to hold a lot of weight, the rod that turns them will bend and do nothing when a tiny amount of resistance is applied. To go with them, you'll need a jack. These are actually a pretty good option if you have a robust jack and plan to use them as supports then come off of them afterwards.
It was a good choice. The 12” version I have is mine. It is a sturdy little guy that is perfect for raising the side of my porch so that I can replace a post.
I read that the screwdriver turn-able screws were difficult to handle. The rod had bowed on them due to lack of strength. I did not have any problems carrying their load even though it was heavier than mine. Although lifting part of a structure takes effort, I did not feel like the rod was bent at all while I turned it slowly. had to raise the beam an eighth inch or so to take out the old post, and this is what these things are made for -- lifting big weights over short distances. It is very good and the quality is very good. I am glad I selected it.
When compared to other kinds of supports, these look like they were quite heavy duty. It is very well made, with very thick and strong plates. It has a solid tube as well as a solid Although the threads appear to be very The screw is about halfway out when screwed out, and close to 0 when screwed out all the way. It is likely they will not support the listed weights due to the very little thread contact.
There is a 5" of play from side to side. Since I do not have time to change them, I am attaching a jam nut to the threaded shaft instead. All I need to do is find out if they are metric or standard.
This crawl space is not very large. There were two of these in 2 separate areas of a crawl space in a Cape Cod-style house on the NJ coast. With HVAC and other piping in a 24" crawl space, they were easy to maneuver around. I dug into the sand about 12 inches to place footings and over the cement blocks I used 4X4 pressure treated lumber. They were easy to work with and positioned well even when installed on a not so level surface. This will allow me to monitor the floor movement and adjust these jacks as soon as I see most of the sand compressed. This will be my intention to buy 4 more in the future and to use them on a larger portion of the house that needs support, so I will be interested in seeing how they look and work after a year under a roof.
It is heavy steel tubing that has been well painted. There is a two-way adjustment for height - up and down Using pre-written text For the top screw, use the bar that is included with the jack or use the screws that need to be drilled and inserted. With the holes on the two main telescoping tubes that adjust up and down, the length of the arm can be adjusted up or down by shifting the steel inserts up and down. You can make fine adjustments using the screw mechanism at the top. Use the bar that comes with the unit to turn the screw. It is pre-assembled with a top plate and a bottom plate A hole is drilled in the bottom or top plates that will allow them to be screwed to a surface or bowls to seat the jacks. A swivel is provided on the top plate. The two plates are about three inches in diameter I would estimate that it measures approximately 1" by This is the 12th jack of varying sizes that I have purchased. I have found them to be very effective It's perfect for tight spaces due to its smaller size. When you are planning your foundation, you should consider the height between the foundation and the beam or connection. If you wanted to place an order for the correct size, you applied this calculation to the range of the jack.
A top and bottom support slab of 5/4 mahogany was added to the jack and brace to make it more solid. The basement floor jack is known as a basement floor jack, but I'm using it to raise beams to serve as support for columns on our porch and other restoration work on our 1885 New York City.
There's something about these jacks that I love. 5 of them exist in my possession. For jacking up the four, I used the 4-inch levers Posts and beams will be replaced on the back deck and season porch. They have two screw holes on the bottom of the board and two on the top. Attaching the jack to the post with 2 drywall screws was as simple as cutting a 4"x6" post to the height I need. As I have a large number of posts of various lengths lying around anyway, finding one to suit my needs is rarely an issue. In addition, if I am short, then adding concrete blocks to the structure or removing 2"x6" cutoffs should always solve the issue.
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