Powers Fastening Innovations 05512 Spike Anchor - 3/16-Inch by 4-Inch Mushroom Head Grade 8.2 Carbon Steel Pre-Expanded Anchor, 100 Per Box
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I tried both and found the flathead version to be much easier to work with in terms of protrusion. They do not, however, offer flathead in all lengths (particularly shorter ones, such as 2"), and they only come as mushrooms, as far as I recall. You might be able to drive the head in to reduce protrusion in a soft furring piece. You could, if you want to save time (and effort), prepare ahead of time. For the head to be hidden, drill a larger hole.
7/8" is the bare minimum, according to the manufacturer. When using them, make sure they're at least 1 1/4" into the concrete. I used them to secure foam and furring strips to the wall, which had a total thickness of 2 1/4", and they worked perfectly.
These aren't going to work in a cinderblock basement, in my opinion. Drilling a hole in the cement and then pounding the fastener into the hole is how these are installed. The gap must be at least one to one. For the fastener to work, it must be inserted 5 inches into the cement. On the sides, some of the blocks I've seen are only an inch thick. Cement is strong in compression, but since this fastener's holding strength comes from tension, I doubt you'd be able to use it anywhere other than a solid concrete wall.
I'd recommend using them to hold furring strips in place before screwing the drywall to the strips. It may be difficult to hammer into the concrete ceiling after that.
Selected User Reviews For Powers Fastening Innovations 05512 Spike Anchor - 3/16-Inch by 4-Inch Mushroom Head Grade 8.2 Carbon Steel Pre-Expanded Anchor, 100 Per Box
I used 200 of them to fasten 1x3s over 1 1/2 xps on basement walls, and they worked great. Drill 1/2 to 3/4 inch deeper than the anchor will go in, give it a couple of hammer blows, and it won't come out. Tapcon screws or wedge bolts are much slower and more expensive. I saw these on a YouTube video from This Old House and couldn't believe they worked exactly as they did. I used them on poured walls, but I'm not sure they'd work well on block.
I would always turn on the tap. You'll need a hammer drill and a lot of arm strength for this product because you'll have to pre drill and burn through some bits. If you don't have a hammer drill, you'll have to buy one because the Spring Nail is 4 1/2 ". You're best off setting a guide because you don't want to wing it. You won't be able to get the Spring nail unless you have the proper depth, and no matter how hard you hit it, if you go too deep, it won't feel as secure. Again, this was in the landlord's and posed item to go cheap and make more work than is necessary attack on you can unscrew these you can't they're locked into the concrete he chose these for me to finish the basement these days most people frame the basement she can get where I'm going with this and if you want to take the long way around and make a huge process out of a simple framing the basement for finish then go ahead and go with these. I understand that he didn't want to commit to a floor plan for framing, but I still would have gone with tap cons to create a simple art of finishing the perimeter walls after they were sealed. isolating.
I installed 1"x3" lumbar over rigid foam insulation against the foundation with approximately 200 of these in my basement. They're durable and simple to operate. a few pointers: br>br>
1. Make sure the hole is at least 3/4" deeper than the anchor.
2. To drive them in, use a good heavy sledge hammer. It will save you a lot of time and a lot of frustration. I used a 3 pound hammer and had no trouble driving these anchors into the concrete.
As others have done, I used this to attach 1x3s to 2 inch XPS insulation against the basement wall. This is exactly what I needed. You can learn how to do it by watching this YouTube video of an old house. br>br>The best reason to do this is if you want to save an inch or two of space by not completely framing the area in, and your basement walls are fairly straight to begin with.
They recommended securing lathing and foam boards against a poured concrete wall with these squiggly bolts. They work exactly as they claim: they're quick, cheap, and snug, and it's kind of satisfying to whomp them in. Both the drill and the hammer make a lot of noise, which bothers my dog. As others have suggested, don't use a regular hammer; instead, use something heavier, as they require a hard whomp. I tamp the bold through the lathing with my regular hammer until they reach the hole, then switch to the whomper.
a close second. Where have these been my whole life? They're far superior to any other concrete fastener I've ever used. The second-best option is a long way off. To be honest, I'm not sure why they work so well. I expected them to be strong in the vertical but not so much in the horizontal. They were used to attach furring strips to 2" XPS insulation. The concrete walls, which were constructed in 1960, are of average quality. I had to be careful not to clamp down the furring strips so hard that they sank into the XPS-based material. That's how strong their horizontal clamping power is, and they're incredibly easy to set up. I couldn't stop laughing every time they walked right in. Never again will I purchase a tapcon.
Wow. It's far superior to tap cons. I was working on a 50-year-old concrete block wall with 2" foamboard and furring strips. I wanted to try something different after using tapcons on previous projects with mixed results. Because I couldn't find them locally, I ordered these after seeing them on this old house. Drilling a hole and pounding them in is a simple process. A few failed to hold, but this was primarily due to the block wall. I could sink my head into the wood because they are so secure.
I'm not sure how I came across this information. For my basement, this is far superior to tapcons. By drilling a hole and pounding the furring strips in, I was able to install 2" foam. I had to be careful not to hit too hard, or the furring strip would literally suffocate in the foam. Hold on tight!.
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