Pack of 6 - Duckbill 88-DB1 Earth Anchor - Includes 1 Drive Steel Tool
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Very well done. Considering that I live on river tailings, they are a bit more difficult, but they worked perfectly for me. A tree anchor that did not bend, break, or stop driving into the ground was selected.
As well as a rotary hammer, I used a piece of 1/2 inch I check rebar. I was very happy with it
It is unlikely that they are in my possession to look at, but I think they are probably not. They were used to hold down some soccer bench shelters and the cable was looped around a steel leg and then padlocked to the cable, as described above. So what are you trying to say?
Selected User Reviews For Pack of 6 - Duckbill 88-DB1 Earth Anchor - Includes 1 Drive Steel Tool
As compared to the duckbill anchor ends on other types of earth anchors I have used attached to steel cables, the duckbill anchor ends on these are far and away the biggest I have seen. In addition to that, the rod that comes with the drive is a dense 3 foot steel rod that is 3/4 inch thick! My job was to drive them into a soil in which wet weather is frequent and where there is a moderate amount of clay. Because there is no side handle or T handle at the top, I was initially concerned that it would be difficult to lift the drive rod out of the ground after burying it over 36 inches. The thought occurred to me of wrapping a rope around the bar (under the welded-on nut) to create a pull strap, but this was a waste of time and energy. The size of the duckbill anchor, even in thick soil, makes a hole that is about 1/2" larger in diameter than the rod, even when the soil is thick. The result was that it was easy to pull the rod from the hole just by pulling it up. The fact that I was able to drive the anchors all the way down made me confident to drive the cable loops into the ground about an inch or two below grade. The easy way to attach a quick link and anchor chain while the cable loop is still a few inches above ground is for you to attach them while still in the cable loop, which will even make setting the anchor easier since In the event that the anchor is set, the cable loops will be found just above ground level or slightly above it. I wish to warn you about one small point After a few anchors were driven and the merry sledging that went along with it, I mushroomed the top of the welded on nut a bit. During the process of pulling the rod up, I ended up with a sliver of metal in my finger and a sharp edge on my rod. Don't forget to watch out for that. .
All orders arrived very quickly and were packed well. It would be easy to obtain more if I ever needed them.
I am very happy with the duckbill anchors themselves. The castings are made of very thick aluminum, with a 1/4" galvanized steel cable attached to one end Each end has a loop swaged to it. Although the steel drive tool does its job, it does not display a high level of The tool is a wooden bar welded to one end with a large bolt so that it can be used as a hammer - Surface that attracts the eye. Among the shortcomings of drive steel are In any case, it is not tapered. The tool is not forged or tempered as a result of which it is fairly easy to bend. There has been a bit of a change in the game. A medium clay that is damp I needed approximately 30 tons of soil in the clay soil I was working in A 12-inch revolver is blown 40 times An anchor must be driven all the way down with a sledge hammer of 75 pounds. The drive steel was very securely stuck in the ground at that point. You can only get it out with a crowbar and huge leverage, as shown in the picture above, provided by a *stout* 3 foot building We're drinking. Having overcome the initial friction (first 6" or so), the crowbar was then able to slide out of the ground freely and easily. I would have liked to see a quarter inch of sizing on the first 6" During the summer months, there were tons of ups and downs A crowbar is used for force.
An A-plus quality product. In the aftermath of a tornado attack that destroyed numerous properties in the local area and flipped sheds a few streets away, our shed needed six Duckbill 88 anchors to stay secure. As soon as I noticed these anchors, I was amazed by their size. measure 30' x 22', and their manufacturer rates them at 3,000 lbs of strength. I believe it's because it's driven 40 inches into the ground and attached to a 1/4 inch steel cable. In addition, 40 inches of snow reaches our Ohio frost line, so we do not have to worry about frost heaving or eventual anchor loosening. There will be no loose ends and they will provide several years of peace of mind. Designed for easy installation with a sledgehammer, the drive rod is 3/4 inch diameter and has a bolt built right into the top Using a power hammer was more efficient, so I avoided that much work. I was able to drive each anchor into hard clay in less than a minute. As others have noted, the driving rod is the only thing that may be a problem. An anchor becomes jammed with it. During my first rod removal, it jammed up and took me over 10 minutes to remove. I found a large blob of automotive grease in the anchor that kept the rod from jamming up in the future.
I received the product in good condition and on time. This model is stated as being "ideal for installation on rocky or hard soil, or if using power installation equipment. ". The term is something of a hand wagging euphemism that isn't applicable in If you use what is included (no matter how you use the bar to move it), you cannot install this anywhere but in sand and loam. There are rocks in my soil from the size of a potato to the size of a bowling ball It does not get bigger than this Gravel that is larger than 1/8" is probably classified as gravel (more than 50% larger). Three-inch smooth bar that is supposed to act as an anchor fitted the anchor nicely, sat pretty in the sun, and bent like a warm string cheese during the day. Although the bar was not moving in the gravel, it held up to the sledge and the vibration of the jack hammer. An excavator's bucket pressed axially on it, however, and it bent without ever moving into the ground. In the end it was hopeless without improving the installer, so we bent it straight a few more times. Whenever you need to push that head into dirt or gravel, sleeve the bar with a few pieces of pipe so you can lift it more than 1 inch It's best to start with a 1/4" diameter before you try it. It would be best to start out with a 3/4" pipe and some JB weld, then sleeve the 3/4" pipe with a 1" pipe or similar, bringing the outside diameter up to 1". This is 14". Perhaps it can push the head with the 5k or whatever it takes to make it fit.
The anchors themselves are impressive. My installation bent the rod in the process because I bent it. Before I got 18 inches on the second rod, I straightened and bent it for balance. Considering I drove a number of rebars to the same height in the same location, I should drive them all to 24 inches. So effectively, I have a defective driver in place and only one of the anchors in the ground. The remaining four anchors are not accessible because of the defective driver. Could you please remind me that the hole collapses if you remove the driver to straighten it?.
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