InstallGear 1/0 AWG Gauge Gold Ring Set Screw Battery Ring Terminals (4 Pack)
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5/16" is the diameter of the terminal lug hole. However - Because these were sold as brass, I was able to drill out to a 3/8" hole for a few that I needed to attach to a 3/8" post. However - The clear coat on these acts as an electrical insulator, so be careful! My review can be found here. separate documents
It appears that 7mm - 275" - or a little more than a quarter inch The terminals are fairly thick and beefy; however, you can always drill them out further if necessary.
These are brass that has been gold plated, according to the seller. On top of that, I discovered, a tough clear coat plastic finish had been applied - which serves as an insulator between two conductors of electricity! My review can be found here. separate documents
3/0 wire is about 2 mm thicker than 1/0 wire. 1/0 also tightens the terminals. Apart from the current capacity of these wire sizes, you don't want to exceed the manufacturer's specifications. The wire could arc or melt if it isn't tightened down properly.
Selected User Reviews For InstallGear 1/0 AWG Gauge Gold Ring Set Screw Battery Ring Terminals (4 Pack)
I bought several of these because they're well-made of solid brass and (apparently) gold-plated. But, as I discovered, there was a tough clear coat plastic finish applied on top of that, which created a problem. which serves as an insulator between two conductors of electricity When I used these to make a battery cable, I discovered this by accident. I accidentally dropped the other end after bolting one end to the negative terminal. It collided with the positive terminal and bounced off of it. Not good. However - There wasn't even a smidgeon of a glimmer at all! Knowing something wasn't quite right - due to the fact that this was a brand new, fully charged battery I checked it with my ohm meter - When I simply touched the lead ends to each end of the cable on these terminals, there was no connectivity. I scraped and dug down the sharp ohm meter leads into these terminal ends, suspecting an insulating clear coat had been applied, and eventually got connectivity once I had metal contact. br>br>So beware! These look great, they're well-made, the large set screw securely fastens the battery cable to the end, and they're reusable - The clear coat, however, provides excellent electrical insulation in its current state - If you want to make a good electrical connection, you'll need to clean it off. I put all of the other terminals I purchased to the test - All of them were constructed in the same manner. So, to correct this, I did the following:
- Using 320 wet-dry sandpaper, lightly wet sand the surface. a flat block of dry paper - The two flat terminal sides are the only ones that are flat. Just enough to start scratching away at the clear coat.
- Then - utilizing a Q- tip - I used some Goof-Off to help me out. I took it off and scrubbed it for a while because this is a difficult paint to remove. I could see the clear coat slowly dissolve and peel away with the remover - Despite the fact that scrubbing was necessary.
- I repeated this process on both sides of the terminal flat sides until all clear coat was gone.
Now - On the cleaned sides, I have great connectivity when I barely touch my ohm meter leads. br>I then applied a light coat of GB OX- to those areas. 800 Ox- Gard Anti-Malware To keep the exposed brass from corroding, use Oxident Electrical grease. br>br>SO - Simple Object Object Object Object Object Object Object Object Object Object These are well made, but you must remove the insulating clear coat before using them if you want a good electrical connection (which is one of the reasons I bought them).
When 940 watts of power is applied for 5 minutes, these screw terminals become extremely hot. I swapped them out for Heavy Duty Wire Lugs Copper Ring Terminal Connectors, which remained virtually cool during the testing. EWCS 1/0 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 Volt was used, and while the screw ring terminals are attractive, they are not copper or high-energy conductors. They also don't sit flush against the source's surface. Washers must be placed between the surface and the screw terminals due to the step design. I don't recommend using these for serious solar use; instead, use heavy-duty copper lugs.
These were purchased for my first toy hauler inverter/battery bank project, and I purchased them again for my second! We sold our first hauler after I designed and built an incredible automatic transfer system, which you can learn more about in the 30 amp DPDT relay review. I connected the inverter to a series/parallel configuration of four 6V deep cycle batteries. In the new toy hauler, I'm about to put in a new battery bank. The relay system, as well as the inverter, have been installed. When I began testing these terminals, I quickly discovered that the pair going to the inverter had too small lug holes. I used a step drill to carefully drill them out. I tweaked it a little and got the desired width. I'm using true 1/0 ga wiring, and the fit is perfect; however, because the lug plate is centered and not offset on the terminal, you'll need spacers (washers or otherwise) for some installations. Our first hauler's battery bank is shown in the photo with this review.
Take a look at the illustration of the terminal end, where you'll be screwing it in. It's 3/8" thick, which is significantly thicker than the nickel I used as a comparison. It was too thick to connect to the alternator output on my car, and it may be too thick for yours as well. If you're connecting it to a car battery terminal, it might work, but it'll still be bulky. Other applications in which you have plenty of space won't be an issue. br>br>It would be a fantastic product if it were redesigned with a thinner blade, and even better if it were made of copper, though I suspect the price would have to rise.
Used for amp, then was working on the big 3 and needed a few more connectors so I used the spares I had laying around, last bolt broke these connectors almost like they%.
I inserted a 1 inch piece of soft copper tubing into the connector, tightened the set screw, and smooshed it in place. I removed it, wrapped the grounding strap around it, reinserted it into the connector, and tightened the set screw. For RF grounding in Ham radio, this is ideal.
These set screw terminals were purchased to clean up the ends of my 4 gauge wire that connects to my battery and amplifier. You get four gold plated signs with positive and negative symbols for the price of one, which is not bad considering some others cost more and you only get one or two. The Allen set screw is the only issue, so make sure it's tight and threaded correctly. I didn't have any problems this time, but I have in the past. I would buy this product again.