URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance Approach Sensor Inductive Proximity Switch NPN NO DC 6-36V Cylinder Type
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An internal 10k resistor on the NPN NO version pulls the black wire (sense) up to the input voltage. This is done to keep the sense wire from floating (i.e. causing damage). pullups (standard). As a result, it will pull up when it is away from metal. The NPN transistor "closes" and shunts the black sense wire to ground (goes low) when it comes into contact with metal.
It's a normally open switch that, when activated, completes the circuit. The sensor does not come into contact with the metal; instead, it detects it when it approaches a certain distance.
Simply purchase a jst connector (the white connectors at the end of the cable). You won't need anything else to get this up and running on a standard Anet board.
Selected User Reviews For URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance Approach Sensor Inductive Proximity Switch NPN NO DC 6-36V Cylinder Type
I bought this sensor to replace the one that came with my bed. On my CR-V, I have a leveling sensor. 10S Pro 3D printer, and I have to say, this has been the most helpful in keeping my CR-80 running smoothly. The 10S Pro printer is extremely pin-friendly. point on the money This sensor satisfies me completely and I would recommend it 100%.
I've got two of these printed on two different printers, both of which use glass. It was a little difficult to get them to work, but I'm pleased with the outcome. They should be about 2mm above the surface of the glass. To get a good mesh, you might need to experiment with the number of points on the glass. With only four points on the corners on my Ender 3, it works best. I needed 16 points on my Tronxy X5S to make it work. Less created an odd mesh. I didn't try only four, but it might be worth a shot if your six bed screws are all the same length to prevent the build plate from warping. The numbers 6 and 9 did not work. I was getting strange mesh results over and over again.
Inductive sensor of exceptional quality. I was unsure whether it would work at 5V or not when I bought it because some people claim it will, while others claim it won't. It worked perfectly at 5V in my case. At this voltage, the sensing range may be reduced, but it was more than sufficient for my application. There is no sensitivity adjustment screw, but raising and lowering the sensor will accomplish the same result. I bought this in the mistaken belief that it would work with my 3D printer's uncovered glass bed, but it only detects the aluminum below. Because my glass and aluminum are both very flat, this hasn't been an issue for me, but don't make the same mistake I did. This sensor, in my opinion, is reasonably priced and performs as expected.
It was a cinch to swap out the probe that came with the cr10s pro. Simply cut the wires and solder them together if they are of the same color. It's a million times better than the printer's erratic probe. br>br>As a side note, I broke the first probe I bought by trying to test it before installing it. The black wire is the signal, not the negative, and if you connect it to a 9v battery incorrectly, it will fry and stop working. Because I had replaced my bed with a magnetic flexible bed, I wanted to test it before installing it, but this was a bad idea. I ordered a replacement probe, which I installed and it now works perfectly.
55"br>br> The model is different, and not only is the cable length shorter, but it also still has a piece of heatshrink tubing on it from the previous user. It is, in fact, employed. I peeled back the cable sheath to reveal solder shards. I've ordered a lot of these probes from other sellers before, but they've never arrived in this good of shape.
This was a drop-in replacement for the stock capacitive sensor on my CR10S Pro, which had failed after months of reliable service. Of course, the connector will need to be replaced, but it was a simple swap otherwise. However, I discovered that the probe needed to be lowered further than the stock probe in order to trigger (see the photo with the stock plexi 4mm spacer next to it). My first impression is that it's a good replacement for the printer's stock probe.
I'm using it on my Anet board, with the exception of adding a connector for my Z endstop, and it works perfectly with a 5v line.
I figured, "Hey, those should work on my plasma table," and I was right. They are potted in such a way that the lower portion is watertight but the top allows water in. For a water table, this is not good news. Superglue holds the caps in place, but you can pry them off with a knife edge wedged between the metal case and the lid. br>To make the cable and lid watertight, I used clear RTV around the inside of the cap. It's fantastic.
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