E-Projects 10EP5144K70 4.7k Ohm Resistors, 1/4 W, 5% (Pack of 10)

I have a 2001 Buick Century with stupid auto headlights that might not have been so bad if GM had set them up through the BCM to sense when the car actually started and then trigger the auto lights, but no, the dang things come on the instant the ignition switch goes to on run position before you even have a chance to start the car, and what's up with the interior light turning on as soon as the key is removed, hey GM you put a switch in the car for the light This 4 has a fix for it. A 7k resistor across the light sensor wires stopped everything, and there's a fix for both DRLs below. Auto headlights for Buicksbr>br>2000-2002 Locate the Body Control Module (BCM) for the 2002 Buick Century. This item is a black box that measures approximately 6" square and weighs 1 pound. 4 connectors enter one end of a 1/2" thick board. Follow your ears to the chime inside the car while hunting with the door open and the key in the ignition. It's on the left side of the steering wheel, just above your left foot, in a 2002 Buick Century. The BCM wiring harness has clearance because of a bump in the fuzzy trim panel that covers the under dash area. To get close enough to work, the trim panel does not need to be completely removed. Remove a few of the panel retainers and work the left end down and back until there is enough room to work. Those panel-retaining fasteners are the "Christmas tree" type that are difficult to remove. Persist; this is the most difficult part; the actual mods are simple. br>At this point, the four connectors should be nearly flush with the dash's bottom. The connectors are color-coded to make them easier to find. C1 is the first and only blue connector. Four of the connector's seven wires will be used in our project. The white striped wires are the front left and right feeds from the turn signal switch, and they are light blue, light blue w/white stripe, dark blue, and dark blue w/white stripe. The front left and right turn signal lamps are connected by plain colored wires. Simply cut all four wires about an inch away from the connector and insulate each wire separately. Splice (and insulate) the colors that go into the harness together. The DRL function is removed from the front turn signals by changing the color of the front turn signals from dark blue to dark blue with white stripe and light blue to light blue with white stripe. br>The purple C2 connector is the second. Only two of the connector's fourteen wires will be used. These two wires connect to the Ambient Light Sensor, so look for the yellow with black stripe first, then the light green with black stripe next to it. Cut these two wires about an inch from the harness's exit point. Insulate the wires from the connector by connecting a 4700 Ohm resistor (1/4 watt is fine). The BCM will remain in daylight mode and the automatic headlight function will be disabled as a result. br>Make sure your work is up to par. Check the turn signals and headlights to make sure they're working. Replace the trim panel and give yourself a pat on the back for completing the project. br>br>Toasted1Too writes: br>br>2001 Buick Regal LSbr>br> br>All that is required is accessing the BCM and 1) locating connector C3 wire A4 (gray with black stripe), cutting it, and installing a toggle switch between the cut ends, which will handle the auto park lamps. 2) Find connector C3 wire A11 (white) and cut it, then install a toggle switch between the cut ends to cover the auto headlights. With some wire and some time, these toggles can be located remotely. br>br>This method allows you to switch between automatic and manual operation using the toggles, and the headlight switch will still work regardless of the position of the add-on toggles. Except for the PRND321 and odometer, it prevents the instrument cluster from lighting up, but my goal is to reduce the load on the alternator and battery while waiting or warming up the engine in the winter. br>br>1999 Buick LeSabrebr>Because the DRL function is built into their LCM (Light Control Module), all outside lighting functions are controlled by the LCM, which has preprogrammed IC's, it can be difficult to defeat the DRL circuits on Buicks. The Park signal must be kept high (12V) to defeat the DRL function in the Buick LCM. If you just want to disable the DRL function for good, this is how you do it. Cut the lite Green wire that connects to pin A8 on the LCM a few inches away from the connector. Remove about 1/4" of the Pink A7 wire's insulation a few inches from the same connector. Remove about 1/2" of insulation from the lite Green wire that comes from the connector and wrap it tightly around the bare area of the Pink wire, then tape up the joint and the cut end of the lite Green wire. br>br>That's all there is to it. Holding the Park lite Green wire at 12 Volts while the ignition is turned on fools the system into thinking the car is always in park, preventing the DRL from turning on. If you do it at the park switch, your automatic door locks will be messed up. Where is the LCM? br>br>Can you tell me where it is? It's mounted low, just above the floor's "hump" on Le Sabre's firewall. It can be disengaged from its mounting clips by pushing it towards the driver's side. If your Buick doesn't have a rear seat heating duct connected to the heating ducts, you'll need to remove the plastic block off plate, which has a piece of plastic on its left side that prevents you from pushing the LCM towards the drivers side to disengage it from its mounting clips. The LCM appears to be mounted under the dash behind the glove box on other Buick models. br>br>Would you like a switch that allows you to choose between DRL with or without? Obtain a 3-terminal switch with two positions. Cut 3, 2' pieces of wire and connect them to your switch with approximately 6' of small wire. Cut the lite Green wire that connects to pin A8 on the LCM a few inches away from the connector. Remove about 1/4" of the Pink A7 wire's insulation a few inches from the same connector. Connect the wire from your switch's center pin to pin A8 of the LCM's connector's lite green wire. Connect one of the other two wires from your switch to the other end of the lite Green wire, and connect the last unused wire from your switch to the bare spot on the Pink wire. Tape up all of your connections. Install your switch in a convenient location. The DRL function in your Buick can be enabled or disabled by moving the switch from one position to the other without disrupting other functions in the vehicle. br>br>1998 Buick LeSabrebr>The 1998 Buick LeSabre (and likely other years) has a particularly irritating combination of features: DRLs and automatic headlights with no override, which would turn on when the car was under a bridge, in a shadow, etc. , and could only be turned off by ambient light. This was particularly aggravating because it dimmed the radio display and other electronics during the day. I took the car to a shop and had it modified in a way that is unique to this type of vehicle; The car's chassis computer has been tricked into believing it is always in PARK. The automatic headlights now only work once and can be turned off (for example, if you drive under a bridge), but they will turn on automatically if you start the car at night or drive into the night. The DRLs no longer come on because they are controlled by the gear selector rather than the parking brake. This procedure has had a few unfavorable outcomes. The automatic locks have been disabled, and the pilot light that indicates that the headlights are turned on has been disabled. There is a gap in the market. Bypass the modification with a dash switch. Any reputable car electric shop should be able to assist you with this. The automatic headlights were particularly inconvenient for me because I had to go to a military base, where you should dim your parking lights when passing through the gates. br>br>Buick LeSabre (unknown year)br>Remove fuse 24 from the engine compartment fuse block to turn off the DRLs on your Buick Lesabre. Relay 30 can be removed from the same panel as well for good measure. br>br>1997 Buick Park Avenue (also confirmed for 2001)br>This procedure explains how to disable the DRLs on a 1997 Buick Park Avenue by duplicating the factory RPO T62 (no DRL) wiring configuration option, and is likely applicable to most GM cars from 1997 to 2001. present that make use of high-tech Along with an automatic headlamp system, the vehicle has daytime running lights and daytime running lights. The only drawback is that the security system and perimeter lighting will no longer be able to flash the DRLs, so when you turn on the security system or perimeter lighting, only the parking lamps will illuminate. At night, the automatic headlamps and the flashing headlights The pass feature continues to function normally. The DRLs are being deactivated. br>br> Remove the driver's side headlight assembly to turn off the DRLs. This was held in place on my '97 Park Avenue by two thumbscrews atop the assembly, accessible from under the hood (do NOT mess with the aiming screws), and pulling the assembly straight forward to pop the rear retaining pin out of its socket in the fender (do NOT mess with the aiming screws). If necessary, unplug or twist and remove the turn illuminator lamp (the assembly's rearmost bulb) after it has become loose so you can pull the assembly out far enough to see what you're doing. Locate the "ground" wire of the driver's side HIGH beam headlamp (the lamp that is closest to the car's centerline); This wire is black with a white stripe on my '97 PA; unplug the headlamp connector and verify that this wire is 12V when the DRLs are on (DAYTIME, ignition ON, headlamp switch OFF, transmission in D) and that it becomes a chassis ground when the high-beam headlamps are on (DAYTIME, ignition ON, headlamp switch OFF, transmission in D). The high beams are activated, and the beam headlamps are turned on (nighttime or headlamp switch on). Several inches away from the headlamp connector, cut this wire. br>br>Prevent shorts by carefully endcaping the cut wire coming from the control module (the chassis wiring harness end, NOT the headlamp assembly end). After that, splice the cut ground wire's headlamp end into the low-voltage ground wire. (On my car, the headlights are solid black;) To make sure it's a ground, use a multitester). To prevent loose connections, solder the splice thoroughly, tape and insulate it, and then reassemble everything. The headlamp wiring has been updated to match the factory RPO T62 wiring as described in the shop manual. br>br>If you really want to go all out, you can ground the high-tech components. Under the hood, a weatherproof 25A SPDT switch allows you to beam your headlamp - It's a good idea to put it in one of the plastic air box struts - With one side of the switch connected to the lamp control module and the other to a chassis ground, and the wire from the headlamp connected to the center contact, you can switch the car between regular and RPO T62 configurations if desired, but only if you're confident in your abilities. West Marine and other boat stores sell weatherproof switches that are suitable for the job. Why does it work? br>br> The Lamp Control Module (LCM) feeds 12VDC to both headlamps separately when the regular high beam headlamps (not DRL's) are turned on. The passenger side headlamp is grounded by a nearby chassis ground, while the left driver side headlamp is grounded by the LCM itself due to the lack of a local chassis ground. The high beam headlights operate in parallel in this mode. When the headlights are turned off and the DRLs are turned on, the LCM feeds 12VDC to the "ground" wire of the driver's side high-voltage connector. The current flows in "reverse" through the driver's side headlamp and grounds through the passenger side headlamp, with the current flowing in "reverse" through the driver's side headlamp and the current flowing in "reverse" through the passenger side headlamp. The high beam headlamps are connected in series in this mode, which reduces the current (and thus the light output) slightly. The driver's side headlamp is grounded to a local chassis ground rather than through the LCM on cars equipped with the RPO T62 (no DRL) option, and the DRL wire from the LCM is either deleted or endcapped. This configuration is duplicated by the procedure described above. 2001 Buick Park Avenue - br>br>2001 Buick Park Avenue - br>br>2001 Buick Park Avenue - br> Auto headlights should be turned off. Removing the light sensor br>br> It can be found near the bottom of the windshield, near the top of the dashboard, in the center. The top is round and about 1/2-inch thick. It's about an inch in diameter on the inside, with a smaller translucent circle that can be pried out with a screwdriver. br>The actual sensor, a small metal disc that looks like a thick watch battery, is attached directly below the top of the light sensor assembly. Two small wires emerge from the disc, one on each side. When the sensor detects light, the circuit is completed, and the two wires are connected. It breaks the circuit when it doesn't detect light, triggering the automatic night-lighting system. Lights that indicate the passage of time Connect the two wires permanently to turn off the automatic lights. I did this by connecting each of the wires coming from the sensor with a piece of speaker wire. It's also a good idea to solder them together. It doesn't matter what the sensor does once those two wires have been connected beneath it: There will never be a short in the circuit. And, as far as the lights are concerned, a complete circuit equals daytime in this case. Replace the sensor assembly in its original location after the wiring has been secured. Because it's oriented in a specific way, you may need to rotate it until it fits again. If you follow these steps along with the ones for disabling DRLs, you'll be able to choose when you want your lights on. br>I haven't noticed any unintended consequences yet, but I'll let you know if I find any. 2005 Chevrolet Corvette (C6)br>1. 2005 Chevrolet Corvette (C6)br>2. 2005 Chevrolet Corvette (C6)br>3. 2005 Chevrolet Corvette (C6)b Reduce the front carpet in the passenger footwell.
2. The foot panel should be taken out.
3. Next to the battery, look for the IPEC (Instrument Panel Electrical Center), which looks like a fuse box.
4. Take off the IPEC's cover.
5. On the back, you'll find a component diagram.
6. Relay 38 and 40 should be located. (The right DRL is controlled by 38, while the left is controlled by 40)br>7. Remove the cover from each relay and pull it out carefully.
8. Insert an insulator between the relay contacts that you have cut to fit (matchbook cover cardboard or the plastic from a coffee can lid works well).
9. Replace the footwell, the relay cover, the relay, the IPEC cover, and the relay cover.
10. DONE!.

Reed Perry

| Apr 17, 2021

They're great at resisting the things that resistors resist; just make sure you don't forget to count and order only one package when you really need 27.

Tate Lyons

| Dec 10, 2021

There's not a lot to say - A resistor is a resistor is a resistor is a resistor is a resistor is a resistance is I am satisfied with my purchase.

Jaxx Reed

| Jan 17, 2021

I would buy this product again because it worked well for my project.

Salvatore Jennings

| Apr 15, 2021

It worked perfectly! It arrived very quickly! Condition is excellent. Thank you a lot! A+++.

Iris MORLEY

| May 07, 2021

It worked perfectly for my car's latch.

Crew Blake

| May 21, 2021

They have a good price and they work. Although the packaging was a little suspect, the overall experience was positive.

Noelle Franklin

| Apr 01, 2021

I needed some resistors for an alarm system, but Radio Shack was out of stock, so I bought these. They perform admirably.

Zyair Sellers

| Aug 20, 2021