HiLetgo 10pcs 5V 650nm 5mW Red Dot Laser Head Red Laser Diode Laser Tube with Leads Head Outer Diameter 6mm
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No, you don't need a driver; all you need is a 5-minute drive. It doesn't matter if it's a five-volt DC power source, a phone charger, or even batteries, as long as it's five volts. Make sure you're not running it on the number three. When using 6 volt power supplies, the beam brightness will be drastically reduced. The diodes can be focused by turning the brass casing outwards and inwards.
Any 5vdc source could be used to power them. Wall worts with a voltage of 5 volts DC are quite common. The majority of phone chargers, iPod chargers, and other similar devices operate at 5 volts. Go to Goodwill (a resale store) and you'll find that half of the ac adapters on the wall are 5v. These lasers were surprisingly bright when I used them in a student project with Arduino controllers. The focus (large oval) was poor, but the collimation (beam spread) was satisfactory, and the brightness compensated for the lack of focus. Keep in mind that the wires are delicate and will require heat shrinking to make them durable enough for even light flexing.
The maximum range of diode lasers is unknown. If you point them into space, they will go on indefinitely. However, unless it is focused, the light emitted spreads out and appears to be absent, despite the fact that it is present. The same can be said for any light. Unless it falls into a black hole, that is.
They don't have the correct volts, no.
Selected User Reviews For HiLetgo 10pcs 5V 650nm 5mW Red Dot Laser Head Red Laser Diode Laser Tube with Leads Head Outer Diameter 6mm
At 50 cents each, these diodes are an absolute steal. This information will help to dispel some of the myths and reviews. They only need a 5-star rating. br>br> There's nothing more to it than a volt power supply. I powered the diode with an old desktop Christmas tree power/controller, which works well at 4 volts. 5 volts, and I get different beam options using the controller (video attached). Remember, no driver boards or power modules are required; instead, use batteries and 5 volt power supplies (the diode will work at 3-volts). 5 volts (although it isn't as bright at 3 volts)br>br>THEY ARE FOCUSABLE! Because the diode's barrel is threaded, you can screw the forward portion of the diode barrel in and out to focus it at various distances; it is not one solid piece of brass but split in the middle. br>br>This is my second purchase, and both have performed admirably and consistently. br>br>One caveat: the wiring is thin, and as others have pointed out, it will easily break off at the solder joint. My recommendation is to cut some electrical tape and wrap it around the board and wires as a strain relief, or encapsulate the board and wires with hot glue, which is the best option. br>br>Despite not having been tested, my 40 years of laser experience leads me to believe that these are hotter than a typical 5 MW laser diode.
3 of them were DOA because they didn t light at all and one had a dim glow so 40% failure rate. The remaining six are all excellent. I did set the power to 4 for all of them. First, try 5 volts, then 5 volts on the four that aren't working. It had no effect on the three dead lasers, but it did slightly brighten the dim one. The 6 good units were powered up at 4 after reading about the devices potentially failing after use. 5 volts overnight with a 100 ohm resistor on each device, and they're still working fine today. After 15 minutes, the resistors were added because they had become warm. They run cool and bright enough for my use, thanks to the added resistance and slightly lower power. I'm not returning them, but I'm looking for a source of small 5v lasers to replace three of them. I needed nine units, but only six of the ten were suitable.
After ten minutes, the third, which I kept at 5V, became dim. The other diodes function normally, though a few of them had "satellite" spots due to an imperfect enclosure. br>br>I'm going to use this with two 1. A visible but dim beam is produced by using 5V alkaline batteries (3V total). Using the same voltage, my Radioshack laser pointer is significantly brighter (at least twice as bright). br>br>The connections are made up of two wire cables that are soldered to tiny conductors. It's not the best wiring, but it gets the job done, and the soldering is strong enough to pick up a diode at the end of one cable without degrading the connection. br>br>Each laser has a nonadjustable lens that focuses the light out somewhere around infinity, so if you want to change the focusing, you'll either need your own lens or buy the slightly more expensive focusable diode lasers.
Surprisingly, these aren't that big. There are five of them. 8mm dia. x 9. A small circuit board extends 3mm from the base and measures 5mm in length (brass part). A series resistor and very fine wires are mounted on the circuit board. Only a series resistor serves as a current regulator. br>br>At 3 o'clock, it can make a bright dot. 5V. At around 3 volts, it draws the recommended maximum current of 20 milliamperes. 8V. I put one to the test at 5V for a few hours, and it drew 37mA, produced a bright dot, and reached a maximum temperature of 97 degrees. For such a low-cost laser, I'd say it was pretty reliable. I notice that everyone in the Q is wearing a hat. A is powering them with 5V supplies, but this results in twice the recommended maximum current, so expect a shorter life! Despite their diminutive size, these do come with a focuser. Some of them needed to be freed up with a small plier. It didn't take long, but they're so small that doing them with your fingers is difficult. They can create a small dot from infinity to a distance of about 4cm.
Some of the reported non-conformities may be due to the use of an ESD-safe clear plastic bag. devices that work br>br>At 5 p. m. , the location was extremely bright. At 15' and 3' on a white wall, 0V is still visible. In my laboratory, the voltage is set at 3 volts. br>br>The current was NOT 20 mA, but it was a mean of 29 for the ten. A maximum of 30 mA is available at 5 mA. With a minimum of 28 and a maximum of 0 mA, 9 mA. This could affect a battery-powered project. br>br>Upon power up, the current was about 1 mA lower, but it rose to the above-mentioned currents about 10 seconds later due to temperature rise. br>br>The brass package had a temperature rise of 12 °C as measured with a 38 AWG type T thermocouple. It's not hot enough to burn your finger, but it does warm up. br>br>The size of the spot is approximately 0. At 15', there is a 5" difference in height. br>br>The "thin wires" had a diameter of 0. br>br>The "thin wires" had a diameter of 0. The tined lead is 009" in diameter, so 32 - They were 3" in length and 30 AWG. br>br>I hope this information is useful.
Using a 4 cell AA battery holder (6v) as a power source A couple of lasers were blown out by me. To bring the voltage down to 4, one cell was removed. 5v & It was a huge success. There is no need for a voltage limiter or resistors because it runs fine straight from the batteries.
I bought this set because of the price rather than the specifications, and I had low expectations. Although the flimsy, already soldered, very thin wire leads require special care, I am pleased with my decision. In the near future, I'll conduct a limited comparative analysis with other laser LED variations - To reassure myself that this low-cost set would survive the trials, I added a board and more precision beams. After all, I can get a whole bunch for less money than a single discrete one with supposedly better specs.