Linemaster T-91-S Treadlite II Foot Switch, Electrical, Single Pedal, Momentary, SPDT, No Guard, Black
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The switch works in the same way as a light switch, but it is a single pole double throw switch. The majority of light switches are mounted on a switch leg. I'm not sure what you're wiring to the switch, but simply connect the green wire to the ground terminal, the black wire to the common terminal, and the white wire to the normal "open" or "closed" terminal, depending on how you're using the switch. The black wire is used to power the switch, and the white wire is used to power your machine. There are other ways to wire the switch, but there is only enough room to run one power cord through the wire clamp. Connie
If both contacts on the switch are used, the result is 16/3 with ground. br>If you only use one 16/2 ground contact. And that's the SOJ cord, which can be found at any hardware store.
That's what I believe. The following are some of the issues you might encounter: 1) the cramped conditions in which the wiring had to be completed; 2) selecting and using a cable that is compatible with the strain relief collar; 3) locating and soldering wires to the proper size slide on connection sleeves. All of this can be figured out with the help of the included paper instruction sheet. When you're ready to work on the switch, be cautious. It's possible that the springs and other components will fly around. I overcame all of this and now have a functional foot switch for operating my ham radio transceiver. Best wishes to you.
On a machine that has cycled 130,000 times, I can tell you that two of the wheels are still turning. Each cycle, the operator steps on one pedal once and the other pedal twice, resulting in a total of 195,000 "stomps" on one pedal!
Selected User Reviews For Linemaster T-91-S Treadlite II Foot Switch, Electrical, Single Pedal, Momentary, SPDT, No Guard, Black
I found exactly what I needed: I needed a small foot switch that could be used with low voltage ( The majority of the structure is made of metal, so it should be able to withstand normal wear and tear. tear for use at home or as a hobby I would recommend a different model if you require something for industrial use. br>br>There are two drawbacks to using a foot switch: 1) The female connector that needs to be used (not provided) can barely fit between the end of the NC and NO tabs on the microswitch. 2) The "cover return spring" is not scored to the bottom or the cover, which makes reassembling the assembly after connecting the wires a bit of a challenge. br>br>Also, a photo of the back of the box, showing the wire prep (and, most importantly, that it requires two, 3/16" wide female connectors), should be included in the listing.
This switch has incredible overall dimensions. I wish I had discovered it sooner after purchasing a less expensive one. That one is bulky, too light, and entirely made of plastic (but I couldn't care less about that). I had to secure it to a steel plate to keep it from moving during use. It still sucked after I changed that and added other features. Simply put, it's too high. Then I came across this foot switch and was astounded by how well-made it appears to be. Oh, and don't forget about the price! Everything about the size is ideal, and after reading the data sheet that came with it, I decided to open the switch to see exactly what was required to ensure proper installation of the supply cord, which this version did not include. Due to a limited amount of space, I require a custom fit. It's sloppy to wrap up the excess. After removing the switch cover, I discovered that the microswitch was hidden behind a removable cover, and that with it on, I couldn't see the terminals. A small plastic retainer must be gently pushed away from the edge of the cover in order for it to release. I was a little annoyed at first because it snapped off so easily, but I soon realized that the cover stays securely over the microswitch without it. Is that going to be the case for the foreseeable future? It's difficult to say, but removing it requires a surprising amount of effort. I repeated it a few times just to see if anything had changed, but nothing had. I believe it will work fine, and I do not believe it is necessary or even worthwhile to seek a replacement under warranty. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I'm looking forward to it.
This switch was purchased to replace an original switch with the same model number. The original switch on a weigh and fill machine lasted ten years in a dusty environment and was starting to require frequent applications of silicon spray to get through a day of production. I never even opened it; instead, I sprayed silicon into it and went about my business. I ordered a new switch and simply swapped it out, making no changes to the wire terminals. It was a quick and painless process. I see that the internal microswitch has changed slightly and is now manufactured in a different country; I hope it continues to be as reliable as the original. I'm going to clean up the original and save it as a backup. Back to the grindstone!.
These can be used as sustain and control pedals in the studio. Even if you need to supply your own cable and plug, this is the best deal around. Solid construction, effective action, and well worth the extra money when compared to the cheap plastic ones found in music stores. I've connected three and a cheap Arduino to control transport in the vocal booth, one for each push controller and machine controller, two for each synth sustain, and a couple more scattered around to control miscellaneous equipment. br>br>A fantastic purchase that comes highly recommended.
This thing screams "INDUSTRIAL" all the way! 'Way too much for my musical needs. ' However, I am confident that it will function properly. br>br>I replaced the H. It was replaced with a quieter, smaller-sized micro switch after a noisy ("click, click") micro switch was installed in it. micro switch with capacity - due to the fact that it will be used in a musical setting 'I also needed to "silence" the "top-down" "Clacking" of the "bottom" parts. 'Place some weather-resistant "weather-resistant" 'Made too much noise, otherwise. br>br> Granted, if these things were used commercially or industrially, noise would not be an issue! In any case - br>br> 'Valuable for my time' $$$$.
There are three types of contacts on the switch: normally open, common, and normally closed. br>br>Appears to be strong enough to be used as a push-button. Easy to wire up and heavy enough to stay put on carpet or a carpet protector, this talk switch should last the rest of my life. For hams who are capable of basic soldering, this kit is a must-have. The value for money is good. Also produced in the United States of America. N5MJ, 73, 73, 73, 73, 73, 73, 73, 73, 73, 73,.
I didn't want something that looked like a shoebox on the floor obstructing my view. The wiring is simple to connect. It's fantastic to have a metal housing that connects to the ground. To my scroll saw, this is a great addition.
br>I swapped out the piggy-back chair with a new one. I had the piggy-back cord on two sump pumps with electronic level controllers and had the piggy-back cord on the piggy-back cord on two sump pumps with electronic level controllers Back cords that were not used. br>I connected each of them to one of these, and now I can control whatever I plug into the piggyback. By stepping on thisbr>switch, you can cut the back cord. br>It doesn't get any better than this. br>I use it to avoid having to constantly switch the power on and off when using a dremel and a meat grinder. br>It comes highly recommended. br>All you have to do is remove the cover, thread a cord through, strip some insulation, crimp on two spade lugs, connect to the switch, and reassemble. br>It should be possible for anyone to do. br>The same pig-in-a-piggy-in-a-piggy-in- It costs $50 to install a back switch. Make it yourself to save money.
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