Supco SPP6E E Series Electronic Potential Relay Style Hard Start Kit, 1/2 - 3 Horsepower Range, 88-106F Capacitor Size
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Because the compressor on that (and almost every other) refrigerator already has a start relay and the necessary start and run capacitors, an external hard start isn't required if the components in the electrical box on the compressor's side are operational. One or more of those parts, as I'm sure the OP already discovered, needed to be replaced. Even though an SPP5 or SPP5E is around 4 times the typical start capacitor in that size refrigerator, it's not suitable for permanent installation, I've swapped in an SPP5 as a quick and dirty test to see if the compressor can be started at all. If the start and run winding resistances differ from the service sheet folded away somewhere, the compressor has overheated the insulation on the motor windings and will not run without overheating. If the motor is electrically sound, a quick test with an oversized hard start will reveal whether or not it can rotate. It's possible that the motor is wound for inductive start and capacitor run, and the PTC shorts out the run cap until the motor starts. (While inductive start and run are possible, it is difficult to meet both energy efficiency and cost targets without operating as a capacitive split phase motor.) ) PTC starters, in any case, are usually dependable. Random failures occur, but both high humidity and prolonged immersion in water appear to encourage the PTC material to corrode/erode, resulting in two discolored leads with nothing in between or disconnected fragments on each lead wire and more fragments in the plastic case when you open one that has failed. If you shake one and it rattles like it's full of sand or grit, that's what it looks like inside; in an ideal DIY world, you could buy a PTC for less than $1 and replace it; in reality, you'll have to guess what the cold and hot resistance and current rating are. Typically, the goal is to fix the refrigerator as soon as possible, so purchasing the part rather than experimenting makes more sense.
The HP is usually not listed on the AC unit, but the btu rating may be. If you take the btu rating and multiply it by 12000, you'll get the tonnage of the AC unit. A ton of air contains approximately 12000 BTUH. A result of 4 for a BTUH rating of 48000/12000 is approximately 4 HP.
You can wire the hard start in series with the lamp(s) if you have a 240v incandescent lamp (or two 120v incandescent lamps wired in series). When the light(s) are turned on, they should stay on for a short period of time. 2 seconds maximum before shutting down. These, in my experience, fail when the relay contacts are welded. If it makes a lot of noise when it starts up and runs (and then stops in seconds or minutes due to a thermal cut-off), it's probably not a good idea. out) The relay for the hard start has failed to close (welded contacts). If the compressor starts and runs normally, with no unusual or excessive buzz or grrr, it's either working properly or not working at all, but it's not required. Measuring running amps is a good way to confirm your suspicions. The clamp on the ammeter should be approximately 2x - When the main winding is running, it has three times the current of the start winding. If the compressor won't start but is attempting to start, the buzz or grrr will change after 1-minute. It's most likely working after two seconds. Remove the hard start and make sure you don't hear a difference. If it just buzzes for 5 seconds or more without starting and then cuts out on its thermal cut-off, that's a sign that it's not ready to start. The hard start then failed due to a short circuit. It makes no difference if you remove it. Allow 30- After a thermal cut-off, it takes 60 minutes to cool down. out. For all of the above, it's fine to turn off the condenser fan to get a better sense of what's going on; just make sure to turn it back on within 30 minutes. 60 seconds is the time limit. If the fan is turned off, some sophisticated control systems won't let the compressor run.
Selected User Reviews For Supco SPP6E E Series Electronic Potential Relay Style Hard Start Kit, 1/2 - 3 Horsepower Range, 88-106F Capacitor Size
In random intervals, four out of five of these have failed within three years. After one capacitor vented and the associated compressor failed, they replaced ten-year-old SPP6 PTC type hard starts on split system ductless units with tecemseh rotary compressors of 9,000 and 12,000 BTU. I installed new hard starts all around, not knowing what caused the other to fail. When the electronic potential relay is working, it appears to turn off at the appropriate time. I disassembled the defective units and discovered that they all failed due to a timing board component failure. My gut tells me it's a design flaw, but it could also be a bad batch of diodes or something specific to my application that only the SPP6E detects. However, as an EE with a long career, I believe they're using diodes with insufficient reverse voltage ratings because they didn't add the rectified DC voltage to the AC peak voltage, which uses up most of the design's power spike margin, causing them to fail when there's a large-scale power spike. ish spike with the incorrect polarity.
It got too hot, and the top blew off, in my opinion. It didn't appear to have stopped working, but it did not appear to be secure. I have a mismatched system, and the compressor, at least when it was new, required the additional boost to start. When my starter switch failed, I discovered that my old capacitor's top had popped off. It was a perfect fit, just like the old one. Processing and shipping are completed quickly. When the need arises, I will return to this company.
I used it with a 1600 watt generator. This was not applied to an air conditioner. I purchased a boat slip that included an old Shoremaster lift. Because of the Texas floods, the power has been out. To remove the water and raise the lift, it employs a whole-house vacuum motor. To run the motor that is supposed to draw 13, I used a 1600 watt run/2000 watt surge generator. 5 amps. When I turned on the lift, however, the start surge caused my generator to overheat and shut down. This motor does not have a run or start cap. I connected the SPP6E to the ac line and voila! My generator's overload light would not even blink when the lift started and ran. br>br>Because it will be mounted on a dock, I chose the electronic version over the less expensive mechanical relay version in the hopes of it lasting longer in the harsh environment. It functions flawlessly. br>br> Even if the dock's power is restored, I'm leaving it in place.
I had previously installed a Supco SPP6E on the rear RV air (13k btu) in order to connect to a home 15 amp circuit. It worked perfectly, so I went ahead and purchased the SPP7E for the front air (15K btu). Both air conditioners are Dometic and have been in service for 16 years. When they start up now, the fan comes on first, followed by the compressor and a noticeable decrease in sound. After a while, I stop paying attention to the on/off switch. There is almost no difference in sound when using the generator (5KW). Prior to the Supcos, the gen would slow down and hunt for a while before finally settling down. The 15K A/C can also start on the 15amp circuit, but not at the same time as the 13amp circuit. I left the original capacitors in place as a backup, disconnected them, and connected the Supco's. It's simple to install; one wire has a single connector, while the other has a combo connector, just like the original. Connect the new one to the old one in the same way that you did the old one. A plastic tie was used to keep it in place.
br>Everything appears to be the same, except the air conditioner is quieter when it starts. br>I haven't had a chance to test whether the cheap generatorbr>we have will start the compressor. br>br>Before installing this, we turned on our Honda EU2000i's air conditioner. Our fifth wheel is 13 years old and has a Dometicbr>Duo-X generator. Therm 13500 is a thermometer that measures the temperature in degrees Fahrenheit br>br>I'll see if the other off-brand generator works and update this review if it does. br>br>Recent changes: br>br> 10/13/2013br>br>The trailer on which this was installed was sold on 04/11/2013br>br>br>However, before selling, I did notice that our Honda EU2000i Companionbr>would start and run the Dometic 13. On the fifth wheel is a 5K unit. The Honda, on the other hand, would be excessive. If the AC cycled multiple times, the voltage would be volts. When not handling a surge, it appears that the smaller inverter gensets are running right at the edge. br>br>The other genset, a Champion 3500-4000 watt model, could easily handle compressor cycling and even run a coffee maker. The Champion, on the other hand, was at full speed. br>The Champion made a lot of noise, which was probably too much for people outside the trailer to bear.
A friend of mine who works in HVAC and lives in another state recommended that I get this for my broken central air conditioner. Another HVAC technician had arrived and informed us that we needed a new central air conditioning unit! My husband installed this product in our central air conditioning system, and it immediately began to work. The fan, on the other hand, came to a halt after each cycle and refused to restart. A new condenser was suggested by a friend, and the central air unit is now as good as new! br>By not replacing our central air unit, we were able to save THOUSANDS of dollars, and the central air unit now does not appear to change when there is a power surge!.
Penguin 15k BTU roof (Therm) I own three Dometic (formerly Duo-X) products. In our motorhome, we have two Therm) Penguin 15k BTU roof air conditioners. I was constantly chasing blown start capacitors that Dometic was selling as a replacement part, which I replaced about 18 months ago with the Supco SPP6E and haven't had any issues since. Because we spend so much time in our coach and travel to hot climates, our air conditioning is always on. The following is the Dometic model number: 630516 321.
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