Orbit 58874N Extra Valve for 58911 (58872) Complete Watering Kit, Gray
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This strategy is not recommended by us, bA. The majority of underground irrigation controller solenoids are powered by electricity, whereas battery-powered irrigation controller solenoids are powered by electricity. Solenoids that run on DC are used in hose timers (such as this valve). Because this valve was designed specifically for a hose timer, we strongly advise you to use it for that purpose only.
Yes. That is the model timer for which I purchased these, and they fit and function perfectly.
This valve does not have a "default" on or off position. Depending on the polarity of the voltage i, a 24v signal switches the solenoid between the two positions. It is turned on by 24 volts and remains on for a long time, - It shuts down at 24 volts and doesn't come back on. Set the timer manually to turn on and off if the valve is plugged into the timer and water is flowing through it.
My Yard Enforcer valve broke, so I went to Orbit's website to request a replacement. This is what they sent me, and it fits my Yard Enforcer perfectly.
Selected User Reviews For Orbit 58874N Extra Valve for 58911 (58872) Complete Watering Kit, Gray
br>br>I have three timer-controlled systems on my water hydrants, and I've had no problems with them in three years. During the winter, I bring the controllers inside and change the batteries in the spring. This year, I needed to replace a valve on one of the timers because I needed to add another supply line. br>br>After installing the valve and turning on the water, I discovered that it was'stuck' in the open position, and water began to flow out almost immediately. I disconnected and reconnected the valve; I switched an older valve and the new valve to see if the controller was at fault; the controller was good and the new valve was defective. br>br>I called Orbit customer service, and the technical service person was VERY helpful, offering one suggestion and offering to replace the valve for free if his suggestion didn't work. In the end, his suggestion was successful, and the result can be found here. br>br>The valve can become'stuck' in the open position during manufacturing (as mine did). After installing the valve but before turning on the water, use the manual button on the controller to cycle the new valve on and off one time, which should'reset' the valve. Everything is fine now that he suggested it. br>br>I gave the product a four-star rating because there is no mention of having to'reset' the valve in the product instructions. Obviously, this is a well-known problem, because the technician immediately advised me on how to proceed. I appreciated how easy it was to contact the Orbit service department, how easy it was to understand the technician, and how willing he was to replace the product if it was truly defective.
I ordered the Orbit 4 Nozzle Complete Yard Watering Kit with a timer so I could program it to turn on and off four hoses at different times. When the kid arrived, there were only two valves instead of four. The valves are the parts that go into the timer to make the water run when you want it to. To finish this kit, which was billed as a COMPLETE Yard Watering Kit, I had to order two extra valves. I had to manually turn on the two nozzles that didn't have valves until these two valves arrived. All four of them are now in good working order. Ordering the extra valves for the Orbit COMPLETE Yard Watering Kit was a hassle and an additional expense.
If you had a leak and followed the instructions to the letter (not letting these freeze), I'm sorry you had that experience. It will, however, freeze if you bring it into your "garage" or "shed," or if you put it "out of the elements in a garden box for the winter. " I've had mine for 7 years and it's still going strong with no leaks, no issues, and it always works perfectly. BUT IN THE AUTUMN, I BRING IT INTO MY HOUSE. Do. Not. Let. It. Freeze. Got it? Good.
I've been using this system for years and have been very pleased with it, but I retired my four-year-old system last year. set of valves This year, I was unable to locate it. I was fortunate enough to have a four-minute timer. I already had an outlet "ducks foot" manifold and two spare valves (found them in a sale), so all I needed were two more valves. I bought two of these because the older design is no longer available. br>br>It's compatible with my older timer model. I had to fiddle around at first because both of the new valves I bought started out open (unlike the older design, which always came on). line has been terminated). I put the timer on manual mode and ran it for a few seconds to get it set for regular use, then pressed "clear" to close the valve. This was done for both new valves, and they've been working fine for days. br>br>These new design valves have a better collar than the older ones, making tightening them a lot easier. Attaching the valves to the duck's foot, then the hoses to each valve, and finally the whole shebang to the sillcock is the easiest way for me. When you do it the other way around, you will almost always end up with at least one cross-reference. The hose connection is threaded, and it will leak profusely. br>br>Here's something to think about: These are the gates. My pipes suffer from severe water hammer as a result of the valves shutting off the water so quickly. At least one of my cold water system's components has failed as a result of this. You *could* install a special expansion "shock absorber" in your pipe-work (it uses a column of air to cushion the hammer and reduce the force) if you get the same result, but I found a cheaper and more convenient method that requires no plumbing by accident. br>br>Before the duck's foot, I attached a brass Y connector and a Goodyear 50-foot rubber hose with one of those sprinkler guns attached to the end. I bled the air out of the Goodyear hose by washing a deck and opening the Y connector's valves. I forgot to close the valve on the Y connector when I was finished, and when the sprinklers started working, there was no water hammer (which is very loud when it occurs). I thought about it for a while and realized that when the water "kicked-up," it was a sign that something was wrong. When each valve slammed shut, the shock was absorbed by the Goodyear hose, which was slightly stretched. Job done. It must be a rubber hose in order to function. br>br> Plastic hoses do not stretch and will eventually split (I once had a flexible Y stand-off that ruptured due to water hammer and flooded my basement, which is why I now only use brass fittings). A 50-foot rubber hose is long enough to spread out the stretch and keep the hose from becoming damaged.
I had purchased an irrigation system about 5 years ago, and one of the valves had broken (my husband claimed "the mower did it"). I've had mine for years and am confident in the Orbit brand; the valves are simple to install and operate flawlessly. The timers aren't connected, but they're equally effective. Set it to any time you want, as many times as you want throughout the day, and mine has four outlets that I can program separately. br>I trust this brand and appreciate how simple it is to install and program (in case you're considering purchasing one). br>Money well spent!.
They never seem to stop breaking. Why are these things so delicate? Last year, I failed to learn my lesson. I have to connect everything, then open the valve through the controller, and then open the water valve for some reason. If I don't follow the steps in this order, the valve will pop open, causing water to leak all over the place. EG: If I turn on the water first, then turn on the controller, the valve will pop open and leak.