West System 655-8 G/flex Epoxy Adhesive, two 4.5 fl oz.
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To be sure, yes. We've also used it on fuel tanks that are under pressure. Punctures were repaired, as were cracked threaded connection collars. We've never seen a better epoxy than this. The preparation work, which should be done with an 80 grit sandpaper, is the key. After the plastic has been sanded and prepped, it is recommended that the plastic be "cured" before applying epoxy by heating the sanded plastic area with a torch (flame). This step is obviously dangerous; only do it if the tank is empty and aired out. Skip this step if you don't want to. The key is to plan ahead of time.
Yes, but regular epoxy works just as well with wood and is less expensive; I used it to bond plastic to wood.
I'm not sure how you intend to use it, but it's a fantastic product that can be used on almost anything.
If you simply want to fill the old holes and reinstall the old screws, I would advise you to contact West Systems for help. They have excellent technical support.
Selected User Reviews For West System 655-8 G/flex Epoxy Adhesive, two 4.5 fl oz.
I bought then to glue a 3" uniseal to polyethylene, and ended up gluing 2 one side of the worst damaged side of the polyethylene glue well and is sitting under To add, my neighbor fixes cars and was looking for a new glue to use for repairs, so he took the piece of card board I mixed the glue on and tried to crack it, only causing him frustration, and eventually cutting it with my big pick axe lol, he says it won't crack, and the look on his face said I don't understand. I would buy this again, and I have also used it to repair my Nike sandals which split all the way through on the side of both sandals as well I have a size 15 foot and frequently catch the front of the sandal on things, bending it in half at times as I step forward with 250 pounds behind my step, but there has been no cracking or damage since they were glued, which I am surprised about.
This was purchased to repair the hull of a previously purchased used canoe. It had been patched up with ordinary epoxy and fiberglass in a haphazard manner. I wanted to do it correctly in a lighthearted way. I found a lot of mentions of this stuff on canoe forums after learning about HDPE (high density polyethylene) and how it doesn't like regular epoxies, so I followed the directions, watched some videos, and gave it a try. On the larger crack, I used fiberglass sheets cut to size and soaked in epoxy, but I also used epoxy alone to fill some gouges and dings. It was a huge success. The connection appears to be both solid and adaptable. You don't have to hurry either; it starts out runny, like warm honey, but thickens in about 20 to 30 minutes. Because it won't come off your brush or tools, use disposable items to spread it.
This was used to repair a new-to-me car. On one of my trailers, there is a water tank. It would be difficult to find a replacement due to the trailer's age and the tank's location. This is an excellent product. br>br>A few hints on how to use it: If you have them, put on gloves and use popsicle sticks. Allow 'plenty' of time for it to dry after lightly sanding it before applying it. Sand lightly and put your fix to the test. If the leak persists, reapply it after sanding and dusting what you've already laid down. br>br>Follow the instructions in the box. There are videos available on the internet; take a look at them. I'm not sure where I got the links from. Finally, when working with this stuff for the first time, don't wear anything you don't want to get dirty. One of my nice work shirts had its cuffs ruined because it had come into contact with the substance before it had dried - It isn't able to be extracted.
I guess I need to improve my listing reading skills. Unfortunately, all I saw was a picture of two quart cans. The product is actually written near the bottom of the page as two tubes with a total weight of 12 ounces. br>br>I've never worked with West Systems before, and I'm hoping it's as good as everyone says it is. My plan is to make fiberglass tubes for model airplanes that fly free. br>br>I'll update my rating once I've used the product to see if it works for the purpose for which I bought it.
It's expensive, but there's plenty of material to work with; I've paid twice as much for half as much, and the tubes are quite large. It isn't nearly as thick as I had anticipated. It will stick to a vertical mend better than most other materials, but mine sagged, so you'll have to work with it, slow set and plenty of work time, and when working on holding tanks (mine), you'll be in a contorted position. I'm happy because there were no leaks on the first road trip, but if it doesn't leak again in the next two years, I'll consider it permanent and give it a 5. 5 stars.
Using closed end rivets coated with G-bond to replace leaky rivets on an aluminum bass boat. flex. Because it's a 50/50 mix, it's simple to put together. It adheres well and dries smooth, which is impressive given that I'm applying it from beneath the keel. G- is what I recommend. flex.
This is deceptive advertising, and a formal complaint will be filed. What you show and what you say must be delivered!.
On a diesel motorhome with a 13 psi operating pressure, I repaired the molded poly header tank. It would cost $450 to replace it, according to the manufacturer. The tank was removed and prepped in about an hour, and the epoxy was mixed and applied in about ten minutes. I left it uninstalled for 24 hours before reinstalling it. I've driven it hundreds of miles with no signs of leaking.
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