Micro Swiss Heater Block Upgrade with Silicone Sock for CR10 / Ender 2 / Ender 3 / ANET A8 Printers MK7, MK8, MK9 Hotends
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It should work, and the original heater's screws are used.
The hot end will work with any FDM printer; all you need is the ability to connect the wires correctly, the correct heater cartridge and thermal sensor, and the ability to make your own mount (Thingiverse is a good place to look).
It works with my Ender 3 Pro and Ender 5 printers without a hitch. I'm not familiar with the CR10, but it appears to be compatible.
M4 is the size of the screw. Flanged or flat washer options are available. If you overtighten the wires, they will be shorted. br>If you don't put heatsink compound in the thermistor well, the temperature won't be accurate. br>I used high-temp epoxy to seal the thermistor inside a M4 brass standoff. Use the heat sink compound even if you don't have a heat sink.
Selected User Reviews For Micro Swiss Heater Block Upgrade with Silicone Sock for CR10 / Ender 2 / Ender 3 / ANET A8 Printers MK7, MK8, MK9 Hotends
I was the proud owner of a brand new Micro-computer. I bought a Swiss all-metal hotend shortly after Christmas, but I didn't get the nozzle tightened enough, and one of my print jobs failed, resulting in a huge mess. I disassembled the hotend to clean it, but discovered that I had stripped one of the heat block's screws, rendering the ceramic heating cylinder unusable. I was fortunate enough to be able to purchase only the heat block. The heat block was simple to install (after threading a new heating cylinder through the cable bundle and screwing it into the mainboard, but that's a different product review). It looks fantastic on paper. A Mandalorian helmet is currently in the works. This book comes highly recommended.
The stock ender v2 hotend has two bolt holes to secure the heatblock to the heatsink, but these bolt holes are missing on this heater block (I mistook the two bolt holes shown in the image for the aforementioned stabilization bolt holes, but they are for securing the heater cartridge).
I didn't realize this didn't have holes for the Ender 3 V2's two block-stabilizing bolts. Now I might have to hold the block while changing nozzles, which with the v2 fan shroud will be difficult. br>br>It's possible that I'll have to return this.
Simply by looking at it, you can tell it's superior to the cheap Chinese-made heater blocks that come in a five-pack for a few dollars. The heater block is well-machined, the threads are all clean and free of burrs, and it holds the heater cartridge in place much better than the single set screw heater block that came with my Anet A8. The printer appears to be doing a better job of keeping the nozzle temperature consistent. I'm not sure how much of that is due to the improved design or the fact that this comes with a silicone sock, but in any case, I'm pleased with my purchase.
Micro Swiss Heater Block (Micro Swiss Heater Block): br>br>I have the full DD extruder and all-metal hotend, but I accidentally cross threaded it while attempting to clear a clog. I bought a new one, measured it, and replaced the treads on the original, so I now have a spare. br>br>Many thanks to Micro- Swiss! I'm glad you guys made it. You guys are machinists to be reckoned with.
As is customary. Micro Swiss isn't the cheapest option, but I've never had a problem with their components or customer service; I usually order directly from their website, but there are times when I need it sooner. Great parts that haven't failed yet.
It's a direct replacement for the Microswiss unit, but keep in mind that the nozzle and heater rod threads can easily strip. That's why I had to replace it; the nozzle's threads had stripped out and the nozzle had become ruined.
Just keep in mind that the thermal tube that goes into the top of the block is not included. This is included in the original hotend. Having said that, I explained my problem to the salesperson, who was gracious enough to send me a replacement tube.
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