Creality 3D Printer Kit with Aluminum Ender 3 Extruder Upgraded, Compression Die Springs for Bed Leveling, Metal Hand Twist Leveling Nut Suit for Ender 3 Pro/5/5 Pro, CR-10 Series/10V2/20/20 Pro
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No, the springs won't fit; you'll have to cut them or change your offset.
Yes, it is appropriate.
Selected User Reviews For Creality 3D Printer Kit with Aluminum Ender 3 Extruder Upgraded, Compression Die Springs for Bed Leveling, Metal Hand Twist Leveling Nut Suit for Ender 3 Pro/5/5 Pro, CR-10 Series/10V2/20/20 Pro
This set is a must-have for any printer in the Ender series. Because the springs that came with your printer aren't very strong, the bed can easily become unlevel, even during a single print. Because it worked itself loose during the print, I used to leave an adjustment wheel on the counter beneath my printer. This set of springs will address the majority of your leveling issues. The wheels that come with the printer aren't bad, but the red ones look and feel a lot better. The cost and time spent to replace the all-metal extruder are well worth it. The original is made of plastic and features a metal tube through which the filament passes. After 6 weeks of daily PPE printing, the filament cut through the tube and began to cut through the plastic feeder, despite the filament guide. This will put an end to the issue entirely. You must be aware that the gasket/screw used to secure the boded tube to the extruder is not the same as the one used to secure the original plastic tube. You'll need the same size as the one that's attached to your hot end (the other side of the boden tube), so get some extras. Overall, this is the first "paid for" upgrade you should make to your machine, and while you're at it, get some extra boded tubes from Capricorn.
br>br>In a nutshell, it's not what it appears to be. Many parts are missing, the quality is poor, the leveling nuts are poorly made, and there are many other issues. br>br> The metal on the leveling nuts is pitted and appears to have been left outside for a long time before being spray painted by a 10-year-old. br>br>It's like ordering a Big Mac at McDonald's, but instead of a Big Mac, you get two fries and a bite-sized chicken nugget. br>br>I'll contact the manufacturer directly about this and follow up with an update.
This was purchased in conjunction with my Ender 3 Pro. I had no idea what I was doing because it was my first printer, but I had heard that upgrading the extruder and bed springs over the stock options would be a good idea. The setup was straightforward, and everything looks and feels fantastic. br>br>If I had to make a complaint, it would be about the spring length. They were a little too long out of the box for the Ender 3's bed, but with a few quick chops with the right tool, I was good to go. I suppose it's preferable to being too short. br>br>I saw some similar options that included a bowden tubing upgrade, but this does not appear to be necessary in my experience. I recently tried printing with flexible TPU and stock tubes, and the results were fantastic.
I just installed this bad boy, and it's working great on my Ender 3 Pro so far. However, there are a few things to keep in mind: br>br>* The bed springs are significantly longer than those included with the Ender 3 Pro, even when set to the tightest setting. To avoid scraping your print bed, either adjust the z offset in your printer's settings or raise the zeroing switch on the side. Even so, I managed to get the printer to try to go below the zeroing switch when manually setting Z position, resulting in a nasty gouge in my print surface. I'm not sure if this is a problem with the stock springs, but it hasn't happened to me yet. In any case, unless you're in the home position (not directly over the print bed), it's probably best to be cautious and not manually set Z downwards close to zero. br>br>* The extruder's Bowden tube fitting is larger than the stock extruder's fitting. Instead, the coupling on the replacement extruder appears to be the same size as the tube coupling on the hotend, which I think is rather nice. Unlike the stock plastic extruder, the extruder does not include a cable clip. However, you can simply ziptie the power cable to the protruding bit of screw from the extruder's spring holder screw.
TLDR: Instead of this, if you want to go direct drive at some point, you should get a dual gear extruder. Full review: br>br> If you leave your printer on bowden drive, everything in this kit is useful; the spring upgrades are nice, though I've seen that there is now a silicone rubber version that is supposed to be a bit better than the springs. I haven't tried them yet, and I'm content with my orange springs. br>br>The larger aluminum adjuster wheels are far superior to the smaller plastic adjuster wheels. br>br>The metal extruder is better than the plastic one, but it would click if used in direct drive mode because the filament would slip through the single gear mechanism. Instead, I replaced it with a metal red dual gear extruder. I'm using the direct drivinator's hero me 5 remix on my ender 3, and it's great.
I bought it a month ago and it worked perfectly, but I was disappointed when I discovered extrusion issues after a long (25 hour) print with glow-in-the-dark filament. the- filament in a dark colour I understand that filament of that type is abrasive, but that is precisely why I purchased an all-in-one printer. assembly of a metal extruder When I disassembled the extruder to clean it, I discovered that the hole through which the filament enters the extruder had completely worn out. It's cheap to replace, but I was disappointed that it didn't last longer. The new bed springs and adjustment knobs are functioning properly.
I wish I had the opportunity to review the entire kit, but the red tensioning wheels are the only thing I can use. br>Wheels & Tires & Tires & Tires fantasticbr>Wheel springs: It's far too long to be of any use in any situation. br>Extruder: a machine that extrudes materials. a waste of time I've tried using stock screws and specialty parts, but the filament still won't feed. br>br>Updated on May 11th: Despite my best efforts, none of the components worked with my printer. Over longer prints, the wheels would cause the bed to rise, causing multiple larger pieces to fail, and the extruder assembly would never work properly. I'm keeping them as spares in case a third machine proves to be more useful, but they're not the parts for me right now.