HE3D K280 Delta DIY 3D Printer kit with Auto-level,Large Printing Size 280X600mm,Fast Heating Bed to 110 Degree

A great effort at providing instructions for a kit. You'll want to print pretty much everything with it even though it's easy to assemble. The only way to print this is to use another 3D printer. This is
br>- The cooling system does not work It was necessary to redesign the effector in order to fix this. The z-word is not in use The probe is the one you stick on the nozzle while leveling, but it doesn't look have included this as part of my new effector design -- I purchased a cloned E3D hot end which does not work the same as the original. In order to incorporate a real E3D V6 hot end, the effector was redesigned. This is
br>- It was impossible to get the screws into the steppers straight In order to correct this problem, the bottom corner components had to be redesigned

- There are no bearings in the pulleys on top - they spin around a screw The top corners of the rectangular box needed to be redesigned Interference with the end stop is caused by the end stop wires It was necessary to redesign the mounting of the end stop in order to fix this - The carriage is not equipped with a belt tensioner. In order to prevent the belts from flying off, I had to redesign the carriage to add a tensioner and belt locks. This is
br>- I cannot use the mosfet for the heated bed. - The mosfets will not be able to be mounted. Besides redesigning the board mounting point to accommodate mosfets, I also added a point to mount a Raspberry Pi on which OctoPrint is running. This is
br>- There aren't any good bed mounts The page had to be redone

- It may seem a waste of $400, but it should be more elegant if you're going to clip glass with binder clips. Using glass clips integrated into the mount, I designed the bed mount system. This is
br>- There is no mounting point for the power supply. It was my task to design a case for this. It has no ground to connect to the power source

- You can't turn it off with a switch or fuse. It has to be unplugged to turn it off You can plug it in if you want

- As I had to replace or redesign most of it, I also designed a case and mount for a touchscreen and a mouse. This is
br>- I liked the extruder, it was simple, but it worked well. This has been upgraded to a Titan by E3D. This is
br>- After cutting the aluminum extrusion, I did not scrub the aluminum off. The plastic components on this printer had to be redesigned and printed separately, in order to get it to work. As well as re-reading, I had to A few dimensions have changed so we have to update the firmware. As a result, most of my $400 went towards the purchase of 2020 extrusions, a heat bed, glass, steps, and Buy the components separately and I could have saved a lot of money. I am enjoying working on this project, and I am having fun designing it and printing it. As a result, this is going to be a great printer, but it will not be a HE3D K280. This printer must be purchased only if you have another working printer. You will need another printer.

Ariel Pena

| May 22, 2021

However, some things need to be taken care of before this printer becomes a solid one. Everyone here has pointed out that both the directions and video are horribly written. Is it really that bad, or do we have a misconception? There is a makerbase mks gen l 1 controller board at the heart of the project. A solid board, if I do say so myself. The steppers are generic and work fine. The power supply is also generic, but is immensely loud. It rattles and the fan hums at an unbearable volume. It was still extremely frustrating to run stock firmware, despite the fact that it was marlin firmware. The update to version 1 has been applied. I was blown away by the changes made by the 9. 9 bug fix. The calibration process on the new firmware was simple and straightforward. After printing a test cube and it printed well, my hot end decided that it wouldn't stay hot after that so I haven't been able to print anything more. When I try to print at 210, it will heat up for a moment, but can't hold the temperature and drops to 140. My heater has been ordered, and I hope that will fix the problem. I was able to make an awesome print with the new heater after I got it. I love how accurately it prints and how well it prints. I encountered a power supply failure in attempting the second print. In other words, it blew out the suppressor Parts that are cheap are to blame for this. My replacement fan comes with fan control, etc. I am waiting for it to arrive. In the end, I would have purchased this printer, but I would have been prepared to change parts if they failed.

Scout DALE

| Apr 11, 2021

I was not the worst person with poor instructions and videos, but it was not the best installation experience I have ever had. The video on youtube is a birdseye type of 3D animation that moves extremely fast and doesn't zoom in very A few videos are broken up into sections that are out of order, or perhaps pieces have been completed in earlier videos but haven't been featured in later videos, which creates a mess around the video. Overall, I finally got it built and this was a quicker, more straightforward build than my Tronxy CoreXY. However, when I discovered the PSU wasn't working when I got it, I was displeased. I need it to be in 110v but the unit buzzes loudly and outputs 0 watts instead. Based on my multimeter, the voltage is 5 volts DC. On 5/15, I messaged HE3D on here and he promised to ship out a PSU as soon as possible. As soon as I got the Meanwell up and running, I ordered a 360W 24V PSU from amazon. set up Repetier following any instructions I could find, but even though the settings appear to be correct, the program will begin counting the total print time but fail to Simplify3D, which I use for my CoreXY, allowed me to start a calibration cube print after running the auto bed level about 10 times and still dragging the nozzle across the bed (the instructions for this process are written by a Chinese person with limited English grammar). About 5-seconds after turning on the hot end, the end jammed Each layer is eight layers thick. After attempting to clear the jam, I stumbled upon a jam in the heat break, which I eventually snapped off. After messing with it for a while, I went out and ordered a V6 clone hot end, but have not yet attempted Additionally, I still do not appear to have received the replacement mains power supply, for which tracking information was received on 5/21 and appears to have been sent from China.

Jianna FitzGerald

| Jul 15, 2021