Bora Portamate Wood Organizer and Lumber Storage Metal Rack with 6-Level Wall Mount – Indoor and Outdoor Use, Black/Grey - PBR-006B
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The distance between them is 6 inches. Which may not appear to be a significant distance, but in my experience, it is. To get to a piece, you don't want to have to go through a lot of layers.
No, they must be permanently installed. You'd have to take the entire thing down and remove the level you didn't want if you wanted to remove a level. This, on the other hand, makes each level quite solid - It's possible that if you could collapse them, it would happen when you least expect it!
Yes. It holds a lot of wood because I hung it on the side of a shed under an awning. Make sure you use LONG lag screws and anchor them into the wall studs, and keep the heavier wood close to the wall and the lighter stuff out on the pegs' ends.
Not a part of the package. However, depending on how high of a lip you require, small/cheap clamps on the ends should suffice.
Selected User Reviews For Bora Portamate Wood Organizer and Lumber Storage Metal Rack with 6-Level Wall Mount – Indoor and Outdoor Use, Black/Grey - PBR-006B
I'm a 62-year-old woman who installed these without any assistance. I'm going to order a second set. They're ideal for keeping materials organized and off the floor in our shop. Each "row" has a weight limit of 150 pounds. Make sure they're properly installed into studs; that's the only way they'll be able to support the weight. I had to maneuver around windows, outlets, and light switches, so make sure you have plenty of room. Brackets can span up to four feet in length. I had some shorter pieces of wood that I simply laid on top of the longer pieces to create a "shelf" that spanned the width of the room. The six 3-inch long screws required to secure the vertical pieces to the wall are not included. We already had a few that would work. br>br>It's incredibly simple to put together. Before I started putting it together, I used the vertical bar to mark the studs on the wall I was going to use. I also took measurements off the floor to ensure that both verticals were level, and I marked where the bar's top should be. Then it was time for assembly. Six tiny holes in each bar hold screws that act as "stops" for the orange bars. So you locate the bottom of the vertical bar (the instructions provide this information) and begin with that screw, then slide the orange bar down the vertical bar, then move up to the next hole and place the screw, then slide the orange bar on, and so on until all six bars have been completed. This is how you should finish both vertical bars before mounting them to the wall. For each of the three holes, spacers are placed between the wall and the vertical bar. Before mounting them, I aligned the mounting hole with a screw, then fitted the spacer, then taped it on with blue painters tape I had on hand, and removed the screw. That way, the spacers are all connected, and all I had to do was screw the vertical bar into place against the wall. The painters tape was then easily peeled away.
Although clearly made in China, these are durable and consistent enough for their intended use. I made a custom lumber rack system out of three of these to store both long and short pieces. The screws that hold the arms in place aren't the best for the type of hole and come loose after you drive them in, but that's not a big deal. They'll stay put thanks to the arm's notch. br>br>You can drill holes in different places to place arms in different ways. Use a 3/32 bit, according to the instructions. 5/32 is incorrect. Also, be careful not to interfere with the mounting spacers/bolts by placing your custom holes in the wrong places. br>br>For mounting into 2x6s, I used 1/4x2" wood lag bolts, which worked perfectly. Arrange them in a row and drive one lag. If you have three of these lined up, make sure they're perfectly level with each other so your lumber doesn't sag in the middle or rock like a seesaw. While one lag is in place, a hammer can be used to adjust the top or bottom by almost an eighth of an inch. Then proceed to the other two lags and drive them. Each set will require 6 bolts. If you're not hanging anything particularly heavy, you might be able to get away with just two top and bottom holes. It would have been nice to have a second set of hands to help mount these, but if you're handy, you can do it yourself.
To support my lumber, I used five sets of two. The arms on the (2) older sets all lined up perfectly, but the arms on the (3) newer sets did not, despite the fact that they were in the same box. It was necessary for me to re-write To make the shelves level, drill a few stop screws. It appears that their quality has recently deteriorated. br>br>However, this design is capable of supporting a significant amount of heavy wood.
" Really? I've purchased several racks in this style and find them to be far superior to this one. I've had good luck with other BORA products (Portamate mobile base), so I'm not expecting much from this one. br>br>For starters, the ability to move the support arms AFTER the wall bracket has been installed is simply unavailable. Other arms mount in a much more efficient manner. Second. br>br> Other products have a deeper shelf depth with the same weight capacity (I was aware of this when I ordered, but I'm dismissing it now due to the other issues). br>br>Third, as the title suggests, there is no mounting hardware. Other shelf kits included lag screws to secure the wall brackets to the studs. br>br>For comparison, I have another shelf kit that I prefer much better for nearly the same price (and allows for more mounting options):.
They are simple and sturdy, holding all of my lumber (my larger sheets fit nicely leaning against the wall under the rack), as well as items such as camping chairs, golf clubs, and my extra long pruning pole saw, while only taking up about 1 foot of the garage's back wall. I can finally park my SUV in the garage (something I haven't been able to do in a couple of years).
The shelf bars were not notched properly to allow them to slip over the screws as they should have been in the rack I purchased. Alternatively, it could have arrived with the incorrect hardware. In any case, in order to put the rack together, I had to grind and file each notch on each of the 12 shelf brackets. I considered returning it, but instead chose to spend the time repairing it. The rack works fine now that it's up, but I could have built one from scratch just as quickly and for half the price. I figured it would save me time - instead of saving money, I spent it on a headache.
They're neat, sturdy, and level.