Whirlpool 4387503 Bimetal Defrost
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I'm not sure, but the one I pulled from my 'fridge' is labeled "L48- 30F". From those numbers, one might deduce that it OPENS at 48°F. CLOSES WHEN THE TEMPERATURE REACHES 30 DEGREES F.
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Earth
I discovered that the problem with my refrigerator was not caused by this part. It started working with this new part on once it was fixed. I hope you found this information to be beneficial.
Selected User Reviews For Whirlpool 4387503 Bimetal Defrost
Top-of-the-line KitchenAid appliances The temperature in the freezer refrigerator reached over 40 degrees F because it wouldn't shut off. According to a web page, the most common cause is a malfunctioning defrost thermostat, which allows frost to accumulate on the freezer's back wall. My freezer's back wall was frosted over, and I knew it. A video explaining how to replace the defrost thermostat can be found on the website. I ordered the part from Amazon and followed the video's instructions. It's a simple procedure to correct. The most time-consuming part was using a hair dryer to defrost the freezer. The refrigerator is working properly now - There is no accumulation of frost. The freezer is full, and the refrigerator is at a comfortable temperature. It should be in the 30s. A wire stripper and wire splice nuts were among the items I needed to purchase at the local hardware store, in addition to the thermostat. The total cost was around $20, less than a tenth of the cost of a service call.
This item was purchased to solve a problem with the defrost cycle in my freezer. The water tube in the back of the freezer (which releases water after a defrost cycle) was constantly freezing, resulting in water leaking into the fridge (due to the tube being frozen shut). This was a fantastic solution. It is very simple to replace. I simply used connectors and shrink tubing to splice into the existing wiring. Not having to constantly wipe up the water in the fridge and empty/defrost the fridge once a month is such a blessing! I hope this information is useful to others who are experiencing the same issue.
is fixed! Every couple of weeks, the drain passage in my refrigerator froze up, dripping water from the upper freezer into the lower section. It was necessary to empty the container several times. (Like in the "good old days"), the freezer is "defrosting. " br>I discovered the location of my refrigerator. Inside, near the timer device, there is a schematic. I went on the internet to look for some information. Knowing what was going on was simple for me because I'm a technician. The defrost circuit consists of only three components: 1] the heater - An Ohm meter test confirmed that everything was in working order, and 2] the timer - When the cover was removed, I could see the gears spinning and the thermal switch (also known as the defrost thermostat). My regular defrost sessions acquainted me with the back of the freezer, where the thermostat is located. It had been wired into a connector, but I simply snipped the wires at a convenient location (leaving the connector alone). The new thermostat was spliced into the existing wires with wire nuts. Frig. There's no muss, no fuss. now it's working perfectly The cost of the part was about a sixth of what it would have cost if it had been purchased from a local supplier. I have no idea what a service call would have entailed. Make it happen on your own. It's simple to do.
This is a great replacement part for the Kenmore Coldspot refrigerator. Turn off the power, cut the wires, and splice them together using butt connectors or scotch locks. The old one will be detachable from the metal enclosure. That's how you'll know the old one isn't good.
This was installed in the freezer compartment of my refrigerator to prevent it from freezing up. I was able to solve the problem. This part or the timer is usually the culprit.
Replace the bimetal switch whenever you do a cooling or frost repair.
My refrigerator works perfectly now that the cooling coil has been replaced, and there is no longer any ice on the cooling coil. gratified.
This component usually only lasts a few years before becoming stuck open. This one was short-lived at only nine months. I've been paying more for the OEM Whirlpool part, but now I'm going with the generic at 1/3 the price because looking into the warranty was taking too much time.
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