GE WH13X10037 Genuine OEM Water Inlet Valve for GE Washing Machines
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Yes, for that model number, is correct.
Thank you, but the correct part is WH13X10024 from Manufacturer.
Yes, according to the manufacturer, that is the correct part.
Selected User Reviews For GE WH13X10037 Genuine OEM Water Inlet Valve for GE Washing Machines
Water dripping into tub after wash cycle is finished, online forums point to this valve, so I'm taking a chance on an Amazon certified used part - Remove screws holding back on, tilt control panel forward, note position of connectors to valve, remove connectors, remove 2 screws holding valve in place, rotate up to assist in removing green clamp (HATE this type clamp), remove water hose from valve, unplug washer, turn water off, disconnect water lines (towel for minor water loss), secure hoses out of the way, remove screws holding back on, remove screws holding back on, tilt control panel forward, note position of connectors to valve, remove connectors, remove Install by reversing all of the steps. 20 minutes and 31 seconds have passed. 😁.
My washer was leaking water into the washer tub when it was turned off, so I did some research and discovered that it had to be this valve that wasn't closing properly, so I ordered a replacement. I grabbed my pliers and nut driver and went to work on the new valve as soon as it arrived. Turn off the water and disconnect both hoses first. Remove the washer from the back of the cabinet. Disconnect the power supply from the outlet. Remove the six screws from the operations panel's back using your nut driver. As you stand behind the unit, slide the operations panel to the left, allowing you to move the front of the panel. Remove the wires that connect to the valve at this point. Remove the two screws that hold the valve in place on the unit with your nut driver. Using pliers, squeeze the clamp holding the water outlet hose and pull it out now that the valve is free to move around. Install the new valve next. br>br> Put the water outlet hose on first, then squeeze the clamp back into place with pliers. Mount the valve mounts with mounting screws. The wires should be reinstalled in their proper places. Replacing the front operations panel is as simple as inserting it into the slots and pushing it to the right (as seen from behind the unit). The six screws in the rear operations panel should be reinstalled using the nut driver. Put the hoses back in place. Before replacing the washer in its original location, turn on the water and check for leaks. Connect it to the power source. It has now been repaired. br>br>While this may appear to be a lot of work, I assure you that it is doable for the majority of people. This took me around 20 minutes to complete. Items required: br>br> Pliers and a nut driver.
It was almost identical to OEM, but it leaked after 24 hours. The only difference between the original and this new version was the cold side wiring orientation; on the new one, both plugs face forward - This is fine because there will be plenty of space once the panel is reinstalled. The only issue I had was figuring out how to remove the front panel after removing the three screws. On my GE, you have to slide the panel to the right about half an inch to disengage the three plastic tabs, then you can get the panel out of the way for better access to the new part; it was so cheap that I bought a second one to keep on hand for later. Update: Within 24 hours of installation, it began to leak.
I removed the hoses and cleaned all of the screens, but this did not resolve the problem. When I filled it up with cold water, it made a screeching/grinding noise. br>br>I replaced the water inlet valve (took about 15 minutes) and it now works perfectly! Fits GE GTWP2250D0WW GE GTWP2250D0WW GE GTWP2250D0WW GE GTWP2250D0WW GE GTWP2250.
So I did this, which was very easy to do because all I had to do was unplug the washer. Remove three screws that hold the front control panel in place. br>Turn off the hose water valves. br>I installed the new water solenoid valve, and it is leaking into the middle dimple area, indicating that it is internally cracked. It arrived in a light bubble wrapped envelope, not a box, so it was most likely dropped during shipping. I'll return it for a refund and receive a replacement part that isn't defective, hopefully.
We wanted to find a solution to the problem of the water washer starting and stopping during the fill cycle. We looked it up on YouTube, and it stated that this was all we required. They were very specific in stating that a different part might be required instead. But only if your machine could perform a little better than ours. We got it for a great price and it was in perfect condition, so we followed the instructions and put it through its paces without any clothes in it. Everything went smoothly! To be sure, we drained and re-ran the washer. It worked perfectly in both hot and cold temperatures. After that, we reinstalled the washer and loaded it with laundry. The washer began spitting and shutting off the water flow in the same manner as before. Because the sputtering now only occurs on the hot cycle, it appears that we may have a different problem. It was worthwhile to give it a shot.
Rubber hoses connect to the surface. My GE washing machine took a long time to fill and had a slow drip when the water was turned off, causing water to build up inside the drum. The problem was completely resolved after replacing the valve, and the washer now fills quickly and without dripping. br>br>Installation is quite straightforward. Rubber hoses connect to intakes on the valve and are held in place by metal clamps. The clamps were a pain to open, and I'm guessing they're the same or similar on every GE washer with this valve. I'd suggest getting a friend to help you pull the hoses on and off while you hold the spring open with a pair of wide pliers. br>br>Overall, replacing this valve is a relatively simple task that could save you money on a repairman.
In June 2018, we had this part replaced on our Whirlpool T/L washing machine. It started leaking again as of November 27, 2018. It's the same part and it's the same location every time. I decided to completely replace the machine, hoping to avoid having to replace the flooring beneath it. A supposedly new part should have lasted longer than five months.
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