Sigma 30mm F2.8 EX DN- Micro 4/3 330963
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Because I could not make up my mind as a photographer, I had both. The Sony 35mm F/1 was finally sold about 8 months after I bought it. My Sony has ceased to be my camera of choice, C) because I rarely use it nowadays. In the beginning, I only used the Sony because of its small size. With a winter jacket, it was pocketable, and I loved that. It kind of came to me over time, but the more I traveled, shot photographs, and edited them in Lightroom or Luminar 3 (now 4), the more I realized how differently these two lenses operate. It just blows the Sony away in every aspect (the Sigma performs much better than the Sony in terms of image quality, bokeh, colors, and subject separation at the same F stop). Even when the Sigma is wide open, the Sony photo is sharper than the Sigma. As long as something is so good, I don't even care about the awesome size of Sony. In addition, the Sigma 30mm isn't too big and heavy, it's still compact and lightweight (after all, we use APSC, not full frame)! There is a In comparison with Sony's F/1, the 4 will help a great deal (shooting faster shutter speeds). By the way, I have an 8 with OSS. Image Stabilization for the whole body). My answer is a little outdated, but I still have a question for you
The 30mm focal length I own is the f2 version. The eight and the one in this one. Under normal conditions, I hardly notice a difference between 4 and 5. The weather this week could be even more extreme than normal. It would be better if it were 4
When you put the lens on, make sure you switch to the APSC mode to get the best results. It is not recommended but you can nevertheless use it since the lens is an APSC lens
- Thank you so much for your time. -It's hard to respond to a subjective question due to volume. However, based on the feedback we have received, most of the time the lens is quieter than most other lenses.
Selected User Reviews For Sigma 30mm F2.8 EX DN- Micro 4/3 330963
This is a small, compact autofocus lens that I use for portraits as well as As a result of the low aperture, the background is blurred, leaving the subject in the foreground sharp and clean. When you want to shoot a person or group of people against a blurry background, this is the perfect tool for you. Moreover, it is highly effective for taking landscape photos as well. provides a high level of service This camera takes FANTASTIC images, has sharp autofocus and is of high quality. In addition, it is much cheaper (*$100) than other lenses of similar quality. There are no words to describe how much I love this lens.
DxOMark says that it is the sharpest lens available for the E mount that I have bought two months ago. My personal opinion is that this lens focuses fast enough, is excellent even in low light conditions, I have not even come across any issues during low light on my sony a6000, and has some distortion that can be removed - The build quality is excellent, I give it 5 stars for being a great product at an extremely affordable price, especially since it is the sharpest lens available for E mount, the only downside being that it has no stabilization.
There are many who believe that this might be the best prime lens Sony has ever made A mount or APS Normally, these cameras are C-type. My Sony A6000 is equipped with it, and it's an outstanding product. The pros and cons are as follows The pro's are The Best-of-the-Best There are two classes of apertures. This is "f1. As of right now, there is no more open lens within this range, which makes it the best on the market. A cheap product. The price of this lens is unbeatable compared to the competition. This lens is cheaper than the Sony and Zeiss counterparts. This is a superb product. A lens this cheap with such promising results as an f1 is something I have never heard of before. This is the best that could ever be achieved with 4. This lens is near perfect at any setting, except if you are a serious photo pro who is trying to find the pixels in Photoshop. There are very few flaws to be found and all can be quickly addressed (e. g. Only a small, best-in-class error Barrels distort in barrel distortion class). If you want to use this for a point of reference - Portraits taken with a point-and-shoot or basic camera don't need any adjustment, they look well The following cons Neither image stabilization nor telephoto lens are available. In fact, there are both pro and con to this. If you use a tripod, you don't need image stabilization anyway, so it doesn't make sense to spend any money on Knowing how to use the 1. setting on your camera will probably give you an idea of how to set up a fast shutter speed. You can virtually eliminate all worries about shaky hands with this method. lack of image stabilization means handheld shots are a bit slower and less stable than they would be with Sony's Alpha A7 Image stabilization is available on an equivalent lens. As for the Sony, I would not worry about it if you know how to configure lenses, as it's the easiest "point and click" lens in the collection. In the case of studio photographers, who have a lot of lighting and depend on each shot to be perfect yet don't use tripods, there may be cause for concern. Whenever I shoot, I just use multiple shots I use the shot mode to make sure I get a good shot. There is chromatic aberration in some colors. The colors around the edges of the lens are purple when they have a low enough f-stop The monitor) or looking for it on the web. The lens is still quite good for this class of lens and, for its class, is normal. If there is a sharp contrast between light and dark, for example, stop shooting). Zoom by wire. Most electronic communications are conducted this way The lens on a 1 does not zoom A tracking mechanism tracks how you spin the ring, and relays the information to the camera, which tries to guess what value you might be hitting. Despite this being normal for the range, some people seem to be offended by it, so please be aware of it. In the field, it is as good as any of the fly-by lenses in the line There is an option on my camera that shows a zoom during focus, and I am able to get exactly the results I am looking for. As a whole Despite its high rating, this lens has all the usual flaws of a level The F-score of this device is the lowest, and it costs less than the others in this price range You can get a stop at any time. I agree with you, Most users would find none of these lenses to be the best. Simple to learn - only beginners needed Make the most of it by having a high level of knowledge. Consider looking up tips about shooting with lenses with low f-stops during one of your days off You will be ready for this when the music stops.
I noticed that after about 10 hours using the camera (on a tripod in my home), the automatic iris ceased to adjust, making the image very dark and the autofocus to cease working as well. However, I cannot actually adjust the iris of the camera even though the aperture can be adjusted. There is no luck with multiple camera bodies that I have tried. Despite being very happy with the quality and value of the lens, it was very disappointing that the lens had to be replaced after only 2 months of extremely light usage. Right now, I'm in a bind. It was used, and the reseller is not authorized, so the warranty is void! I sent the lens back to the manufacturer, who told me the lens was used and the warranty is To fix it, they want $250!.
A Sony A6300 and this lens will be a perfect match for me since I have been unhappy with the sharpness of the FE28/2 and the SEL35mm/1 lenses. According to Sigma, it has one of the sharpest APS-C cameras available, and it's a nearly impossible feat to beat. This lens is suitable for Sony APS-C cameras It runs on the C operating It is important to note that Sigma 30/1 is subject to caveats. Focusing isn't as fast on the 4 as on the FE28 or SEL35, and I have found that it has problems with accuracy in low light In comparison to the FE28 and SEL35, the FE28 has a lightness advantage. Additionally, the focus is less than optimal in low-income areas It would be great if the lens was 35mm, as I am used to that focal range and 30mm feels a bit too wide for me. I do own the Rokinon 12/2 and the Sony SEL 50/1 however. The lenses listed above were owned by an 8 and the camera. There are three Sigma 30/1s. Since buying it, I have rarely taken it out of my A6300 to shoot with it, it has been a must buy for Sony's APS-C cameras This is the lineup for C. There are some things I miss about the FE28. I miss its color rendition and focusing quality I miss its image stabilization. If you are an APS member, please click here I recommend the 28mm/2 if you are a Sony C shooter with a need for focusing accuracy and speed, but don't mind a slightly wider focal length than the In order to get image stabilization, you should consider the SEL 35. When it comes to sharpness, the Sigma is your best choice.
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