Celestron f/6.3 Reducer Corrector for C Series Telescopes
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Your focal reducer should be 105mm away from the camera sensor. After that, you should be able to concentrate.
It is only compatible with Schmidt Cassegrain telescopes (SCT), and most likely only with specific Celestron models. The Maksutov EXT 125 is a Maksutov model. It's not a good idea to go through with it. Regardless of how you use your EXT, you should have a lot of fun with it.
Remove the visual back from the NexStar 8SE's rear cell and replace it with the f/6. 3 Reducer Corrector threaded into the back cell threads Greetings from Celestron's Garrett.
Selected User Reviews For Celestron f/6.3 Reducer Corrector for C Series Telescopes
In an astrophotography book, I came across such corrective lenses. The lense's goal is to effectively lower your scope's f value, increasing light gathering ability and field of view. For my Celestron NexStar 6SE, this lens met both of my objectives. It went from F10 to F6 in terms of scope. 3 and increased the FOV so that objects that were previously too large to image "completely" could now be imaged. Objects' visual brightness was increased, and exposure times were reduced as a result. I leave this lense on the scope by default, and only remove it (restoring the original F ratio) when viewing and imaging planets or splitting close double stars. When the lense is in place, I haven't noticed any image distortion. This was one of the best purchases I've made in terms of accessories.
The main reason I bought it was to get the sun (and moon) into the field of view of my APS-C camera. Using my Celestron 8" SCT (2000 mm FL) and a C (24 x 16 mm) camera sensor. Because the C8 will vignette, using a full frame sensor isn't an option. A slightly wider field of view and a lower f-stop are also possible with this device. Astrophotography of deep space objects has a number. br>br>Handy reference numbers for those interested in photographing the eclipse or just the moon: When shooting with an APS-C camera, the maximum focal length is The focal length of the C camera is approximately 1260 mm. Around 1900 when shooting with a full frame. However, you must be able to center and maintain the target. (I used a 400mm APS-C lens to photograph the eclipse. ) Full Frame C/600mm with no solar filter )br>br>This device is not suitable for astronomy of the solar system, except for the sun and moon, or for eyepiece projection photography. You can, however, simply remove it. br>br>One of the most significant benefits of this device is that it provides nearly the same performance as an Edge HD telescope while costing half as much. You get a built-in field flattener if you buy an Edge HD 8" OTA, but you still get the longer focal length, which means a smaller field of view and slower f-stop. number. You'd have to spend another $300 on a focal length reducer to see the entire sun or moon, or a larger portion of the Pleiades in a camera. Because the Edge HD costs $400 more than the SCT, you'll have to spend an extra $700 to get the same optical setup as the SCT plus this item, which costs about $150. If you buy this along with the SCT, you'll save $550 and have less glass between you and the stars. br>br>The build quality is excellent, and you should have no trouble hanging a DSLR (or, better yet, a mirrorless camera) from it.
It has made me very happy. It was simple to put together and works well. On the Celestron 6se, this is the Orion nebula with this reducer. I used it for the first time last night. It makes a big difference, especially if you're doing any astrophotography.
Because I have a zwo asi224mc camera with a small sensor area, I mounted this on my celestron 8se SC telescope to increase the field of view. It was simple to set up and functioned admirably. I was afraid that the focal plane would shift so much that I wouldn't be able to focus within the limits of my focusing knob if I bought it. But my fears were unfounded, and I was able to concentrate with ease. With enough contextual background, I was able to fit the Dumbbell nebula into my camera's field of view. I didn't notice any significant vignetting, as far as I could tell. My plan is to keep it permanently in the back of the telescope and only remove it when doing planetary observation or imaging (both of which require higher magnification).
Hi: My camera is an 8-inch CST with a native f/10 aperture. If you want to see anything other than planets, I believe and have mathematically confirmed that the f/6 is the better choice. The 3 focal reducer is a must-have item. My scope has improved significantly. Improves the "brightness" performance of any eyepiece, regardless of brand or type; fact in terms of math If you want to observe DSOs visually, this is a must-have accessory for any size CST.
With my Celestron 1250MM focal length scope, I was skeptical that this would make a significant difference. The increased brightness, as well as the wider field of view, pleasantly surprised me. I'm only sorry that I didn't buy one of these years ago.
The image is bright and flat in the center, but the vignetting and curved stars at the edges are excruciatingly annoying for the price. br>br>This is something I use in a C8-based project. XLT equipped with a Canon M50 ASP-II Because of the field curvature at the edges, I usually end up cropping the majority of the image. I'd probably stick with the original focal length and f-stop if it wasn't for the extra brightness. ratio. br>br>I use an OAG as well, and the stars in the OAG cam are curved as well. br>br>In response to other inquiries, I have the back focus set to 105 mm. I was wearing my bayonet t-shirt. To get dead on with my OAG in the optical train, I lathed the mount to a thousandth of a millimeter precision. If you don't want to crop the majority of your photos, do some research and save up for a nicer one. It's fine for smaller galaxies and other things, but it's a disaster for a large field.
I have a fantastic Celestron Reducer/Corrector that was made in Japan. br>br>In fact, it's so important to me that it's on my C5 SCT. The new "Made in China" unit, however, has a flaw. br>br>The Glare was mentioned by another reviewer! It is present. br>br> Glare from within. The Reducer and my C6 on Jupiter were both awash in Infernal Reflections when I used a 16mm Orion EF eyepiece. br>br>I'm going to look for another Reducer/Corrector that is "Made in Japan. " br>br>I strongly advise you to save the packing materials and test this unit as soon as possible so that the POS can be returned. Alternatively, you could save your money from your paper route and purchase the more expensive unit.
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