Satellite Under Eave Mount 1 5/8 Non Penetrating Roof Mount for Outdoor Antennas.
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The vertical portion of the mounting plate is 10-inches away from the mounting plate. The vertical height is 11" and the horizontal height is 19".
Drill at least a 3/16 pilot hole to prevent the 2x4 from splitting. I used 3/8 by 2 inch lag screws, which worked well.
On the same mount, I installed an X 300 antenna. And I'm sure it's capable of carrying more. With 10 pounds, I believe you'll be fine.
There is a gap at the top.
Selected User Reviews For Satellite Under Eave Mount 1 5/8 Non Penetrating Roof Mount for Outdoor Antennas.
So as soon as I got my hands on this mount, I took careful measurements and drew a diagram, which I've uploaded in the hopes of clearing things up. (DRM should be aware of this. ) You are free to do whatever you want with it. )br>br>I'm not sure why some people say you need to buy a mast as well; the expanded diameter at the top of this mount matches the original "1-inch" diameter. Because the dish tube is 5/8" in diameter, the antenna should fit snugly. I say "should" because my eaves are 20 feet up and I haven't figured out how to get up there safely yet! br>br>It was suggested that 3/8" lag bolts be used, but I can't see how they'd fit without enlarging the mounting holes, which are only 0. 322". Although 5/16" lag bolts will work, I'll use 5/16 x 2-inch lag bolts. Split-head carriage bolts, 1/2" On the plate side, there are ring lockwashers and nuts. br>br>Overall, I like this product a lot. I didn't pry off the end cap to check the tube wall thickness, but it's thick and sturdy. Steel with a thickness of 5/32" is used. The tube has a lovely shape, and the welding and powder-coating are both excellent. The quality of the coats is excellent. I anticipate it lasting at least as long as the rafter to which it is fastened.
This is a mount that is designed to withstand a lot of abuse. Because the mounting plate is welded to the tube, there are no moving parts, so the tube must be perfectly level when installed. The best way to do this is to level the mount, mark the screw holes, and mount it with one screw at a time. You can then make minor adjustments to the level by rotating the screw, and then add the other screws or bolts. br>While some reviewers claimed that the tube opened at the ends, mine had plastic caps to keep the rain out. This mount appears to have traveled in both directions.
This was ideal for mounting an antenna on a garage roof rafter under the eave. br>br>I determined that we would need a 3' extension mast and wished that an accessory mast had been available. However, a 1 3/8" chain-length chain-length chain-length chain-length chain-length chain-length chain The toprail of a chain link fence will fit perfectly. As another reviewer pointed out, this could lead to a water intrusion problem. I capped the top rail, but it looks like I'll have to drill a drainage hole now.
It's in a great shape to keep the mount out of the elements, and it's also very sturdy. Here's a quick rundown of my thoughts: Unless it doesn't fit (see another reviewer's awesome dimensional drawing), I can't see why you wouldn't use this mount if you're planning to mount on an eave or roof edge of any kind. If you want my opinion, keep reading: br>br> It's very sturdy (perhaps too much so)- It's a little heavy, maybe it's because the listing says so, but it feels like 3- Because it weighs 4 pounds, you'll want to secure it to as much solid ground as possible. I nailed a scrap 1x4 backing plate to the eave and used 5/16" x 2 1/2" stainless wood/lag screws with locking washers as the hardware (your application may vary depending on your material). I believe you could now do a pull-up on it and it would not move. I can't think of a better way to protect your mounting site from the elements than with a mount.
Simply order the pipe adapter from SpaceX if you're using it for the same setup. It's extremely sturdy, and even though I added wind brackets (I live in a very windy area where winds regularly exceed 60 miles per hour), I'm not sure they were necessary given how strong it is. You won't have to worry about water getting into it because it comes with plastic caps. Because it's intended for a slanted roof eve, I took it to a local muffler shop and had the weld broken and the bracket turned 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees. They took a ten-dollar fee from me. br>br>I don't write reviews very often, in fact, I don't think I've ever done so, but this was a product I'd been looking for for a long time and couldn't be more pleased with.
As stated in the advertisement. This bracket is exactly what I've been looking for after installing a new roof and not wanting to use screws. It's well-made and does exactly what it says on the package. 4 bolts are required for proper assembly; however, we were aware of this when we placed our order. The Skywalker Signature Series 2" Pipe Adapter - Directv is required if you have Directv. Fits on top of a 1. J Pole or 66" Mast Then watch a YouTube video on how to realign your dish. It's a walk in the park.
It's sturdy, but the top must be wrapped in duct tape or water will get into the bend. br>br>For $50. You'd think that for $00, you'd get some bolts/screws or other attaching items. . . . I have a few extra, but it's unlikely that others will. Overall, it's a bent open top tube with a bracket. . . not very exciting, and not very helpful to put up. . . I learned more from the reviews. So, br>br>seal the end and double-check your angles.
Swedged End Measurements: br>End Diameter: Inside Diameter: Inside Diameter: Inside Diameter: Inside Diameter: Inside Diameter: Inside Dia 431"br>End Diameter Outside: 431"br>End Diameter Inside: 431"br>End Diameter Outside 68"br>br>Both ends of the 'J' pipe have plastic caps. br>br>Overall height of the 'J' pipe: Vertical Pipe Center to Center: 24"br> 5"br>The tall end of the letter 'J' is 13" higher than the short end.
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