RCA VH226E Programmable Outdoor Antenna Rotator

RCA Programmable Antenna Rotator VH226F Reviewbr>br>This new RCA'Rotator,' as it's known, is very nice, well engineered, and sturdy, but there's very little information about it. I used it to replace a 45-year-old Radio Shack rotor on my 10 foot lower, chimney-secured mast and 2 foot antenna rotating mast. I'll do my best to fill in the gaps. 1. br>br> Although the rotor section's case is metal and very sturdy, there is no information about the maximum antenna weight or moment available. Above the rotor, they specify a maximum antenna mast length of 3 feet. They mention the following: The main mast has a diameter of 25 inches, but the manufacturer claims that it can accommodate up to 2 inches in diameter. The antenna mast section, I believe, is in the same boat. Optional guy wires can be inserted into extra holes in the lowest mounting bracket. br>br>Be careful when mounting the rotor's base to the main mast; there is a protruding tongue on the rotor that serves as a stop as the unit is slid onto the top of the mast; this tongue should just touch the top of the main mast and protrude into the void in the center mast. If you lower the rotor any further, the tongue will be pressed against the mast's side, misaligning the rotor on the main mast and weakening its mount. 2. br>br>1. br>br>br>br>br>br The control box and the rotor are connected by a three-wire interface. The maximum length of 20AWG 3 conductor cable is 150 feet, but heavier gauge wire allows for longer cable lengths. (Be careful when connecting the three wires. ) On the control box, they are numbered 1, 2, 3, and on the rotor, they are numbered 3, 2, 1. ) The screws are smaller than I expected, and they warn that if the wires aren't connected correctly, 1 to 1, 2 to 2, and 3 to 3, the system could be damaged. The connecting screws on both units have terminal blocks, and the screws have square washers that don't rotate as they're tightened. This helps to compensate for the small size of the terminal blocks. If your wires are too long to use a U shape to go around the screws, I recommend inserting a simple 14-inch straight section of wire below the square washer while tightening the screw. (The instructions call for 12 inches of insulation to be removed. ) 3. )br>br>4. )br>br>5. )br>br>6. Because the control unit's display only shows two digits in degrees, 18 represents 180 degrees. The antenna positioning, on the other hand, is far more precise. The rotor unit's motor rotates at a constant uniform speed, and the control unit synchronizes with it by digitally integrating the clockwise and counterclockwise motor time; time and rotation are both set to 0 degrees in both units at the same time by pressing the initial button. The control unit then uses time to keep track of antenna movements from that point forward. There is no restriction on the number of times a person can repeat an action. I don't know about this control system's ability or accuracy, but I believe the digital time counter and memory is superior to the mechanics' approximately 1 degree backlash play. There is also an auto calibration system to match the digital counter speed to the speed of the individual motor unit paired with the individual control unit, in addition to the initial synchronization system. This relative speed calibration is done at the factory, so it isn't necessary for the user to do it, but if it is, the re-calibration is simple. A user can calibrate the two speeds. 4. br>br> There are 12 memory select buttons and a 12-position memory system. For additional control, there are clockwise and counterclockwise buttons. Once a good antenna position has been found, a memory button can be programmed to remember it by pressing the memory button first, then one of the 12 buttons. By pressing that button again in the future, the antenna can be returned to that position. The memory and current antenna position are maintained across power cycles, most likely by flash memory, allowing the unit to be powered down for the majority of the time and only turned on when the antenna needs to be rotated. On the control unit, there is a power switch. Memory positions can be reprogrammed, and all of them can be erased if necessary. 5. br>br> The control unit's display is red and far too bright to be seen while watching TV at the same time. I covered the display with a cut-to-fit piece of black dog waste bag. It mutes the display while still allowing it to be seen. The display uses one character to show the memory currently selected, A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, U, or L, as well as a two-digit display of the current antenna position in degrees clockwise looking down on the antenna, divided by 10. As a result, three extremely bright characters must be muted. br>br>Overall, I enjoy this unit. It's well-built and well-designed. My antenna is small, but I believe it is capable of rotating even large TV antennas. Its speed is well chosen, not too fast for big antennas but not too slow for actually getting there, about 55 seconds for 360 degrees, roughly the speed and direction of a second hand. Because there are no stations in that direction, I set it to 0 degrees West. br>br>In the unlikely event that a copy of the English user manual is permitted, it can be found here:
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Jaziel Newman

| Apr 27, 2021

After the first one failed after a year (see below), I decided to purchase a replacement/spare. If you take the time to add a little locktite to the four screws for the electric motor, they will last a long time. br>When the four screws in the electric motor inside the gear box fell out, my first attempt failed. This is a simple fix that can be avoided by using locktite prior to installation. It's also worth noting that the rotator isn't designed to support a tall mast on top of it. If you need to do that, you can do so by adding a support further up the post, as I did. My photographs are available for viewing. Now I have one spare in the box for when something goes wrong in the future, and one on the roof doing an excellent job. br>I also made an aluminum plate to fit over the motor mounts, which I'll attach to a unistrut on the side of my chimney chase.

Kaia CHAMBERLAIN

| Dec 18, 2021

This is how I'm using it with my ( Uda. br>The "Pros" are as follows: It's portable, low-cost, and simple to set up. The hardware for mounting the antenna to the mast, as well as the hardware for mounting the antenna's mast to the rotator, are both included. The "Cons," on the other hand. First and foremost, there is no brake on the rotator. As a result, the antenna can be blown around by the wind, and you must recalibrate it as often as the wind blows. br>Second, the calibration itself is subject to drift. This means that after two or three turns of the antenna back and forth, the direction is 5-degrees off. The temperature is ten degrees. The more you use it, the further it drifts away from you. It may be possible to re-calibrate it to get it closer. Third, the official product information included with the unit makes no claims about the amount of wind load it can handle or the maximum moment your antenna can have. br>A few other complaints: br>I can't seem to find a schematic diagram for this unit (despite extensive internet searches), or I may have devised a new control system. br>The screws in the cable clamp at the controller terminals have sunk into thin plastic! As a result, it's not much of a stress reliever. What is the point of having it? br>Moreover, the digital readout is in tenths of degrees. The minimum movement of the rotator is considerably less. As a result, if the display reads "13," you have no idea whether you're at 130 degrees, 139 degrees, or somewhere in between. LEDs are extremely cost effective. Another digit could have been added, if the designers had wanted to. br>To summarize, if you have a small antenna, little wind, and don't plan to rotate the antenna frequently, this unit may be suitable for you. If you have a lot of patience but not a lot of money, it might work. Otherwise, continue your shopping spree.

Marcellus Harper

| Mar 15, 2021