Corsair Hydro Series H60 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 120mm Radiator, 120mm SP Series PWM Fan
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Product Description
Questions & Answers
Yes. The AMD FX 6200 is one of my favorite graphics cards. The way it works will most likely be determined by the socket connectors, but it will undoubtedly work.
It does not appear to be compatible with all 1151 motherboards. The back plate on my ASUS ROG Maximus HERO IX LGA 1151 fits into the holes (back of mobo), but after screwing in the standoff screws (front side of mobo), it leaves a significant gap, making it loose after tightening all the screws all the way down.
For normal and light OC, the thermal compound that comes with it is adequate. Use IC diamond or the metallic compounds (only advanced users) if you want a better compound.
Selected User Reviews For Corsair Hydro Series H60 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 120mm Radiator, 120mm SP Series PWM Fan
I've used a number of different Corsair coolers, and they're all fantastic. I regularly get 6th and 7th generation Intel i7 and i5 processors to a minimum of 4 on a regular basis. 100% stress tested and stable at 8Ghz. The peak temperatures after 24 hours at 100% load are in the upper 60c range in the upper 60c range in the upper 60c range in the upper 60c range in the% br>br>And now for the flaw, which isn't minor. Look inside the box created by the heat sink support holes on your motherboard for any capacitors. These coolers WILL NOT fit without modification if you have any capacitors in that area, which a LOT of motherboards do. br>They may appear to be fine, but if you look at the core temperatures on the side of the processor where the capacitors are, you'll notice that those cores run 10 degrees or more hotter. br>If you're a semi-pro, you can now fix this flaw. All you have to do is sand around if you're a capable PC builder. Overhanging capacitors are. 01" away from the edge. It's such a minor annoyance, but it exists, and it's the reason why these Corsair products are overheating.
For the past three years, I've been going strong. It keeps my 2600X (OC'd 4) cool with just one fan. 1 GHz) with a maximum temperature of 73°C It also cools in complete silence. By no means is it a bad cooler. It's dependable and does the job, but having a 1-year warranty is more of a novelty. A fan liquid CPU cooler, such as this, is a more efficient way of cooling the CPU. It does the job, but there are better options in the same price range. If you're on a tight budget, the Noctua fan/heatsink cooler will suffice. It'll set you back $10 more, but it'll be more efficient and won't leak liquid all over the place. The novelty of liquid CPU cooling is lost, but I believe it is a worthwhile trade-off. off. br>br>Get a liquid CPU cooler with two fans if you have a lot more money to spare.
The H75's design is JUNK, and I'll explain why. I'm pretty sure Corsair held a competition among its employees to see who could come up with the worst design for this year's H75 model. Apart from the jokes, this thing is a nightmare; I'm so frustrated that I don't know where to begin. First and foremost, the included screws for the fans are too short (I have two older model H75 units here and measured the screws against each other; the older ones are exactly 1/16th of an inch longer). However, it makes a huge difference because the new ones couldn't reach the threads and were thus useless. br>br>But that's not the worst part; that's easy to fix; the real issue here is the redesigned CPU block mount. I can see how being able to easily twist it off would be useful in theory, but in practice, it will pop off with the tiniest amount of torque. You CANNOT fasten this down tightly enough to keep it secure; it's far too easy to twist off, and what if it fell off while you were transporting it? That, of course, is ANOTHER issue. br>br>Due to the fact that. you see. when you're getting ready to put it back on In theory, all you'd have to do is twist it on. That'd be fantastic! if it actually worked However, this is not the case. You'll need to unscrew everything and hold it together while remounting it. Getting rid of the twist/removal system completely defeats the purpose of having it in the first place. Because the metal is so thin, it bends down towards the socket. Attempt as much as possible. It will not return to its original position in the slots. Even with all of those issues, I wasted a good 10 minutes on that before disassembling the entire thingbr>br>Ok, so even with all of those problems, I wasted a good 10 minutes on that before disassembling the entire thingbr>br>Ok, so even with all of those problems, I wasted a good 10 I could have lived with it, I suppose. It's inconvenient, but at least it keeps my CPU cool. WRONG. Heat levels are significantly higher than on older H75 units (I'm testing with OCCT and two identical Intel 4790k CPUs, with nearly identical setups except for the older/newer H75 units). br>br>All right, let's get started. I'd like my $90 back, to be honest. and tell Corsair that this design is terrible, and that the older models are far superior. I'm not sure why they were attempting to repair something that wasn't broken in the first place. They shattered it, though.
I purchased it along with the NZXT Kraken G12 to replace the Gigabyte 1080 TI Black Edition 3 Fan Heat-sink. System for cooling the sink. The Black edition was not designed with the 1080 TI in mind; after a few hours of gaming, my temperature had reached 80 degrees Celsius. play. I couldn't handle it because the card I had before, a 1070, stayed at 68C or lower depending on my custom FAN curve through MSI Afterburner and it was an MSI 2-slot card; I couldn't handle it because the card I had before, a 1070, stayed at 68C or lower depending on my custom FAN curve through MSI Afterburner and it was an MSI 2-slot card; I couldn't handle it because the card I had before, Design of the fans, as well as the fact that they are much larger. In addition, I purchased a couple of small heat-resistant items. sinks to adhere to my VRAM and VRM chips in order to assist the fan in keeping the components cool. I used the ones that came with a Raspberry PI cooling kit. It had 30 heat sinks for around $12, and I bought two because there were three different sets of ten. As in ten square flat copper pieces and ten aluminum VRAM size heat-resistant pieces. sinks, as well as ten Mini Aluminum VRM Heat Sinks. The Kraken kit's layout allows you to apply heat in a variety of ways. Sinks into the card rather than the frame or the fan. My 1080 TI is now idle at 19 degrees Celsius in a room with a temperature of 72 degrees Fahrenheit. It never gets hotter than 54 degrees when I'm gaming! I even increased the clock speed by 125MHz to 2025MHz, but it still runs at 54 degrees Celsius, and my FPS is much more consistent while gaming. This is unquestionably the way to go if you take your time and strive for perfection. Keep in mind that it isn't as attractive, but that doesn't bother me because no one comes over to stare at my PC while I am playing games or if they are playing on their own.
This product is labeled as "compatible with AM4" motherboards by Corsair. There is, however, one caveat: The mounting brackets on your motherboard must be AM3 style (or you must not have thrown them away when you received your AM4 board). If yours didn't come with any (or you threw yours away like I did), here are some suggestions. br>br>Corsair's solution is to force you to purchase a $15 bracket from them in order to fix a product that they claim is compatible in the first place. Stupidity at its finest - AM4 coolers are similar to Intel's mounting hardware: they're small, but they're powerful. mounted through the board and into a backplate that holds it all together The "pinch to lock" type used in AM3 coolers is reminiscent of the by-gone era. Gone are the days when a flat-bottomed cooler was required. screwdriver with a flat head br>br>I had the good fortune of having a friend who was willing to part with his AM3 brackets.