Hubcentric Rings (Pack of 4) - 54.1mm ID to 67.1mm OD - Silver Aluminum Hubrings - Only Fits 54.1mm Vehicle Hubs and 67.1mm Wheel Centerbore - Compatible with Scion Mazda Toyota
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Reducers are a term that I'm not familiar with. Do spacers appeal to you? If that's the case, spacers are hubcentric and can help you widen your track by lowering the offset (et) of your wheels. If you don't need to widen, hubcentric rings are the way to go. Both increase the fit's stability and reduce wobble. Simply ensure that the diameter of the spacers is correct for your vehicle and for the wheels themselves. If the diameter is slightly larger (where the spacers attach to the car vs. the rim itself), you may need to get rings for the spacers (as Ahmed previously stated; spacers between the hub and the wheels). I hope you found this information useful. John
These will not fit your vehicle's hub rings. Your Saturn has a rating of 65. You'll need a hub ring with a 65 because there's only one center bore. a single inner diameter After that, you'll need to check the hub bore on your wheels, as the hub bore on your wheels will determine the hub bore you'll need for the outer diameter.
- Motoring at Its Best
Please accept my apologies, but these will not fit your TSX. There are 72 in this collection. 6 mm on the inside, 74 mm on the outside 1mm on the outside.br>br>We do have plastic hubrings that meet your requirements. This ASIN = B00AAOESMC can be found on Amazon. Please read the entire Product Description before making a purchase.
These hub rings are compatible with your 2014 Civic. You'll need to make sure your wheels have a 72 rating. 6mm bore. Please do not hesitate to contact us via Amazon if you have any further questions.
Selected User Reviews For Hubcentric Rings (Pack of 4) - 54.1mm ID to 67.1mm OD - Silver Aluminum Hubrings - Only Fits 54.1mm Vehicle Hubs and 67.1mm Wheel Centerbore - Compatible with Scion Mazda Toyota
I looked up the measurements I needed on the internet to make sure they were correct for the wheels I was trying to fit. br>Wheel hub 66 was what I needed. 6mm to match the 57mm of my car 1mm hub. The ring appeared to fit the car's hub after some corrosion removal and a small amount of WD40 when it arrived, but the supposed 66. The wheel hub, with a 6mm outer diameter, would not seat. A rubber hammer got it a little further, but it was clear that a lot more force would be required, so I knew removal would be impossible, even if it did fully seat, which in my humble opinion it would not have done without permanent damage. br>br>I re-iterate that I re-iterate that I re-iterate that I I researched the wheel hub bore diameter I was working with on the internet to make sure I had accurate information. The number 66 appears to be the most likely candidate. 6mm,. So I'm not ready to completely blame the product; what if the internet is incorrect? Perhaps it was truly in need of 66. As a result, I'm going to give 56mm a shot. However, I would be wary of going cheap on future rings because of the risk of sloppy production.
Perfect! Unbeknownst to me, I was given the wrong hub centric rings at discount tire, and for the past two years, I've been experiencing wheel vibrations at speeds of 60 to 80 mph on the highway. The ring was only worth a tenth of a penny. Outside and inside diameters are both 5 mm too small. 5mm! Make sure your hub and aftermarket wheels are the exact same size, and don't make the mistake of assuming 0. Vibrations aren't caused by a 5mm gap. br>br>Another suggestion is to use anti-virus software. To keep the ring from seizing into your wheels or hub, apply anti-seize compound both inside and outside it. If you're stuck on the side of the road with your spare tire, this could be a nightmare!.
The tremors were fixed. Even after having my wheels balanced and one rim straightened, I was still experiencing vibration in my 325XIT at certain speeds. It finally occurred to me that my wheels are E39 5 series. Of course, the 4-inch wheel bore is larger than the 3-inch wheel bore. series. br>br>I chose these over some of the plastic options available - Everything is going well after six months.
These are a perfect fit. I got a new set of rims for our civic from a junk yard, and they fit perfectly with the Mazda rims! I bought a set of the little plastic ones, and it was a nightmare. The plastic ones flex far too much and are easily knocked off- When attempting to secure the wheel to the hub, keep the wheel in the center. Goodyear replaced my tire and shredded the little plastic ones because they couldn't get it seated straight and had to torque it to death. I can't emphasize how much better these are than plastic ones! It's not even a viable option. One thing to keep in mind for best practice: whenever two metals are in contact with each other and high temperatures are present, something should be used to prevent the metals from fuzing, rusting, or corroding. To keep the rim from rusting, I use neversieze between the rim and the hubcentric ring, as well as some on the hub itself and the back of the rim. My grandfather taught me a valuable lesson. For example, this is an excellent lubricant for reducing contact rust/corrosion and fusing: br>br> It's also available at your neighborhood auto parts store. That stuff is just as good as Neversieze or Caterpillar, and it costs half as much.
These were purchased to replace some broken plastic rings on my 2007 Kia Optima Ex V6's aftermarket 19's. When I got on the highway after purchasing new tires, I noticed that one of the hub centric rings was broken and the other was completely missing. I pulled off the front wheels and discovered that one of the hub centric rings was broken and the other was completely missing. I ordered these, removed the wheels, and replaced all four of them. They completely eliminated the rumble/vibration I was experiencing, and because they're made of aluminum, they should last a long time. Kia Optima (2007 model year) - 1mm id/73 mm id/73 mm id/73 mm 1 od.
If you've installed aftermarket rims, you'll need this item. We required this for our vehicle, and our local wheel/tire shop was unable to obtain it from any of his distributors, so he was forced to send us plastic substitutes. Plastic hub centric rings are not for you; I've had them on several cars and they always crack. These are the kinds of aluminum that you'll need. I even drove my wife's car at 100 mph after installing these, and the car and steering wheel were completely vibration-free.
I've always been hesitant to use plastic on a hot surface, so for my wheel upgrade, I went with aluminum hub rings. They slip on the rotor and are slightly snug so they don't come off with the wheel, which is very convenient; wheel shops often aren't aware of hub rings until they're lying across the room, so these are ideal in that situation. It's a shame they don't give you 5 points in those situations. If you're going to use hubrings, get an extra one if possible. It is certain to occur. The product is excellent and it fits perfectly.
These hubcentric rings are of excellent quality; I measured them and they are exactly as described. Unfortunately, these spacers are not compatible with TR Motorsports' FF10 wheels. On the wheels, there is no room for the outside lip, and the center bore is only 8mm deep, whereas these hubcentrinc rings are 10mm thick. In addition, the center bore of TR Motorsports is approximately 72. These hubcentric rings are only 2mm in diameter, so they won't even fit into the wheel - The bore in the center of the wheel is a tad too small. br>I looked everywhere for TR Motorsports FF10 wheel bore specs before purchasing these hubcentric rings, but couldn't find any - Hopefully, "the next guy" will benefit from this. br>As a result, I'm awarding three stars to the return policy - I have to pay return shipping, which is roughly half the price of the rings, so I'll try to "modify" them to fit.