Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller
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This is the Lisle 58500 part number for replacement hooks.
Using it on the transmission shaft seal behind the recessed main housing was successful. Creating a good design is important. The seal puller should be able to remove all seals. You will have to exert some effort, but you will get the seal off.
In short, yes. The steel finger needs to be placed between the shaft and the seal. With a dry seal, you may need to apply some force. If that doesn't work, adjust the positioning bar until you are able to get the leverage needed to remove it. Keep your fingers away from the seal wall so as not to scar it. You should lightly oil the inside of the new seal before placing it so that it does not dry out.
Thanks for asking. You didn't state which RV you're talking about, but when you take out the inner bearing, the grease seal comes out with it. You only need to make sure the bearing is not damaged by a wood dowel.
Selected User Reviews For Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller
Even before I was licensed to drive, I served as a mechanic and pulled motors. It has never been possible to replace a seal without a tear - It was time for me to tear down and fix everything I spent my time working on! One of my friends asked me to perform a tune up on their three. It can be quite frustrating to deal with the timing belt/water pump on a 4 Toyota. I saw a video in which the guy demonstrated pulling the back plate, cam pulleys, and What a great story My seal puller needs to be purchased! I gave it a shot even though the seals did not seem to be leaking, because I was so far into it. In practice, the puller worked just like it was We had to replace the old seals as they were hard and should have been replaced years ago. Also, I had to purchase an installer to go around the shaft, but the kits are very reasonably priced for how long they can be used. I am - As a whole, this tool is excellent for main or cam seals when you are not conducting a complete Reflecting on the past. As a result of not having this tool, I failed to replace many rear main seals which caused clutches to fail early in their lives. It is important to learn from your mistakes.
The majority of criticisms I've seen of this tool (tears seal, tips break) have been discredited by me, but I have others that are more important. This is mainly a complaint of two kinds. Though the tips and blades are hard and strong and perfectly suitable for the purpose they serve, they also possess sharp edges, and because they are hardened steel, are capable of scratching the relatively hard steel surfaces of the plate. This is the crankshaft on your Subaru EJ25D (go ahead, ask me how I know this). You can ameliorate this problem by grinding all of the sharp edges on the back of the tool a little bit. Additionally, you will definitely mar up whatever surface of your engine you are levering against because the chrome fulcrum of this lever has pretty sharp edges. As a matter of fact, most modern engines have aluminum surfaces, which makes the problem even worse. One common complaint is that the tool's shaft cannot be effectively locked into position, and this IS a pretty valid complaint because it is an absolute pain in the a$$. You might want to consider other commercially available products instead, as many of them aren't as safe for My idea was to take the blades from this tool and remove all of its sharp corners, then attach them to my slide hammer, which turned out to be pretty.
Especially useful in tight spaces, this is a handy tool. My trust in it has never let me down. It was nice that the hook came with a spare, however, I knocked off one star because there's no place to store it, and it would easily be lost. Here is a picture showing what I did to fix it. As the hook is located at the tip of the handle, I drilled a shallow hole of 1/4" in the bottom of the handle. To make a 10-foot tube, I drilled a second hole and tapped it I removed the 32 screw and the problem was Please contact us if you require another spare hook. The Lisle #58500 is available Then type *br*.
To pull the seal on an Impreza engine, I bought this tool. First off, the thumb screw to keep it in place doesn't work very well, so the tool slips and becomes a hand breaker very quickly the first time I use it. In spite of that, even if you can get it to work properly, the metal will bend if it is The tool fell apart the first time I tried to use it, so I can't explain why I was able to bend it in half pulling a rubber bushing from aluminum. My solution was to use a cheap flathead screwdriver, which popped out the seal without any effort. Reading the negative reviews will be of great benefit to you. The thing in question is now a paper weight after being reduced from a tool. I have some cheap tools that work, but this one is just garbage.
In order to remove the scratches, I had to polish them. It would have been easier to avoid scratches if I had been more careful, however, given the difficult and awkward extraction process, it proved to be very difficult. Despite having scratches, I managed to polish them out. Describe a less detailed way of doing it A DIY'er who is focused on repairs might overlook this and wonder why the new seal started leaking right away. Little hooks are made from strong spring steel, which is more durable than many shaft steels you will encounter.
I figured it would only be a matter of time before I screwed It was only $15, so I thought it was worth it. I worked great with it! As you work the little lip into the seam and under the seal, you need to be patient. Keep in mind that you are not trying to break the seal completely. Under the metal core, you just have to work the tool up. Be careful not to slam it down as soon as it is in. A little is pryed up, then the tool is slid to a different spot, and some more is pryed up. Moving the blade to a new location does not require you to pull it all out. As it slides down the edge, it's easy to keep it in place. By the time it came loose, I had probably worked my way halfway around the seal.
I used it on a Mitsubishi camshaft seal for my first application. However, I can see some limitations depending on where the seal is and how it's accessed, but I'm glad I've got him in my toolbox.
It would be helpful to have more information about what size and kind of oil seal this tool is designed to fit in the description. I was not able to use it. The tool may not have been applied correctly. Despite that, my seal, which had a diameter of about 3 inches, a thickness of about 1/2 inch, and a shaft of about 2 inches, didn't move. This tool failed to do the job and instead, I used many sheet metal screw and a cat's paw to ease out the seal over a very slow period of time. I am not sure yet if the shaft of the tool was scored, but I know the screws weren't. I have some positive comments to make Despite the fact that it did not break, the tool seems well made. It is likely that the right seal will work for it.
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