Husky 76862 Stabilizing Scissor Jack - Set of 2,Black,24 Inch
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They are American Made, according to the stickers on the jacks. They're built to withstand a lot of abuse. They will lift a 18,000-pound fifth wheel that I have for them. They're about 6 inches tall when collapsed and 24 inches long when fully extended. 12 inches from the center, to be precise. They must not protrude past the camper's body. I hope this has been of assistance.
They spread out to a total of 24" in length.
They come with mounting screws included. My submission was not intended to be a long-term solution. I cut two 2x4s to fit the jacks and bolted them in place. My boat trailer will be able to make contact with this. My trailer is parked in the yard, and the jacks are placed under the back fram. Crank them up to relieve some of the weight from the axle and tires, then leave them there until I take the boat out. Simply turn off the generator, leave the jacks in place, and repeat when I return. I'd estimate that prepping them for a trailer would take about 20 minutes. Install the mounting holes that have been drilled.
You'll get exactly what you see in the photo. To install them, you must first drill your frame to match the jacks' holes and then bolt them to the frame. You can also do what I do and simply raise them against the frame as needed. It's simple to use them.
Selected User Reviews For Husky 76862 Stabilizing Scissor Jack - Set of 2,Black,24 Inch
I wish I could go back in time ten years and tell myself that I should have replaced my RV's junky factory stabilizers from the start. Instead, I used the flimsy ones that came with the RV for nearly ten years, all the while thinking I might need to buy stabilizer bars or do other things to help with the shakiness. br>br>It turns out that enough rust eventually did the old factory ones in, so I got these after picking them up and holding them at an RV show previously. They're solid, beefy hunks of metal that are good and heavy. Because of how bad the factory ones were, I doubt all four of my originals weigh as much as one of these on their own. Stop adjusting your stabs several times a day, stop hating the shaky feeling inside when people move around, and stop being jolted awake by a shaky RV in the wind. You'll be much happier if you swap out your factory stabs for these. br>br>I'll tell everyone I know who owns an RV about these. There are no issues with this product, and it comes highly recommended.
I liked these jacks at first, but after about a year of use, I have to say that they aren't holding up very well. Although the frames are sturdy, the screw mechanism isn't. First and foremost, they are no longer manufactured in the United States. Second, while I was using them, the screws on both of them stretched and jammed (during separate trips), breaking the roll pins that held them to the nuts and causing them to become stuck. To get them back up, I needed to use a pair of vise grips. With the included wrench, I was using them at a fraction of their advertised capacity. I never had that problem with the old lighter duty jacks on my trailer, which I replaced these with. I'm going to try to rebuild the screws with Acme thread rod first, but if that fails, I'll have to replace them with something else.
your spirits will be lifted Jacks that are exceptionally well-made. It runs smoothly. Just keep in mind that the ground (base) pad does not come in the shape of a large rectangle (as shown in the photo). If used on sand or soft grade, it has more of an "hour glass" shape, which would necessitate the use of a wood block or a larger base pad of some kind. The drill comes with a hand crank handle, but you can upgrade to a 3/4" socket for an 18v battery drill. It'll be a great experience for you! The average weight of a jack is between 25 and 30 pounds. So, when calculating your trailer's CGVW, keep this in mind. I'm very happy with the purchase and the quality.
To the factory models, this is an amazing upgrade. These are easily three times as heavy and strong as the originals. Simple to swap out. The trailer is now firmly attached to the ground. If you have original lightweight jacks from the manufacturer (in my case, ForestRiver), The money spent on these is well worth it. Also, think about where you want to put the system. Mine were mounted on a thin, bendable plate. I simply glued these to the I-frame. A frame made of beams.
Others have said it before me - Don't be tempted to save a few bucks by buying these instead. They are superior in strength, quality, and price. The craftsmanship of these jacks will astound you.
NOW - for the manner in which these were installed. br>I used a grinder to remove all of the old, rusted hardware from the originals, which had only been in use for two years. Although I had to make the mounting holes larger, the Husky bracket fit where the originals were mounted. Except for the overall size, everything is bigger on the Husky jack, and the materials are of excellent quality. Before securing the jack to the frame with 1 1/4 inch 3/4 diameter stainless steel bolts, I thoroughly greased and oiled every nut and bolt. You could use a less expensive bolt, but I thought the stainless would be more durable. Also - If they are damaged while on the road, I know I can replace them by simply unscrewing the mounting bolts and replacing them. br>After the holes have been drilled, the simplest way to mount them is to extend the jack so that it rests against the trailer frame. br>I hope that this information is useful.
When I first bought my trailer, it came with standard jacks that didn't support it as well as I had hoped, and I needed to raise the back end at one point, which the standard jacks couldn't do. I then replaced them with these heavy-duty ones, which have not let me down. I would strongly suggest it.
When sitting for long periods of time, some boat trailer tires appear to develop a flat spot; the weight of the tires, as well as the axle, must be taken into account to help reduce flat spots and axle spring wear. When I store this pair at home, I leave them unattached to my aluminum float on trailer. I lower the trailer front as far as possible once it's free of the car and other impediments. The trailer's back end will be raised as a result of this. Then I position the jacks under the raised rear main supports and open them until the weight is removed from the tires. The set up is completed by raising the front of the trailer with the trailer jack. br>br>These are some big jacks. They're well-made and excellent for securing a trailer at rest; however, they should not be used to lift heavy loads. It's best to do this with a lifting jack. br>br>I gave them a four-star rating because they can't lift heavy loads. However, they perform the functions for which they were created. Also included is a speed lug, which comes in handy when sitting up and down. I am very pleased with the product and can attest to its worth.
These were purchased to help stabilize my 11,000-pound Class C travel trailer. These jacks are simple to use when equipped with a couple of pads and a 3/4-inch cordless drill attachment (Camco 57363 Leveling Scissor Jack Socket). I haven't installed them because of clearance issues; I have a long overhang, and while they might clear the bumper's bump stops, I don't want to risk them bouncing off the pavement. If you're thinking about doing something like this, keep in mind that 24" goes quickly. I have pads with a diameter of 4 inches or more that worked well on the minor sloped site I visited. What I'm saying is that don't be alarmed by the jacks' 2 foot travel; more is better than less. Initially, I only purchased one pair to help stabilize the camper's rear. I'm thinking about getting another set for the front to get rid of all the wiggle. br>Extremely durable and should last a long time.
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