White Butyl Tape 1/8 inch x 1 inch x 30 feet for RV/Mobile Home (Single Roll)
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My butyl tape didn't need to be trimmed because the awning completely covered it, but I believe it could be done without difficulty.
It's not a two-sided tape in the traditional sense. Butyl tape, also known as putty tape, is what it is. It's a pliable, soft tape that's meant to be used in places where caulking would be used. It will, however, last much longer than caulk if used properly. It's not meant to be used on its own. To secure the items that you are using the tape to seal, you should use something else, such as screws.
For example, to keep water out of holes, this is used: on a boat, between the deck hardware and the boat's deck
The data was altered by someone. As you can see in the photos, it's white.
Selected User Reviews For White Butyl Tape 1/8 inch x 1 inch x 30 feet for RV/Mobile Home (Single Roll)
When I got it, it was no longer a round roll, but more of a triangular shape. And it wouldn't come free from either side of the paper unless I rolled it into a ball. As a result, I keep it frozen and cut off strips as needed. I needed to reinstall my taillights, and because the full width was too wide, I could cut the length required and then cut the strip in half. It would, however, quickly become too soft to cut. It would be too hot to cut in minutes in the southern heat, and it would also start sticking to the paper. Soon after, it became too sticky to work with. I just bought a used 5th wheel and plan on removing all of the exterior lights and scraping off the old stuff (mineral spirits will help clean what doesn't scrape off) before redoing them. Frozen tape is easy to cut to fit and does not mold, and excess tape can be smoothed out with a finger after tightening it down (dab in spirits if tape is too sticky).
Butyl tape is something I've used before, but it was always the grey kind. I wanted white because I didn't want it to show through if it smushed under the edges of whatever I was sticking in my RV, so I tried this stuff. Working with gum has a similar consistency. When you try to work with it, it stretches and becomes big long stringy strands, rather than peeling off in one long piece like grey butyl does. It also sticks to your fingers and is a pain to use in general. Perhaps it's the brand, and some white varieties do work, but I wouldn't recommend this one.
I used about 20 feet of this material to replace some RV trim. It continues to be enjoyable, but that is where the good part ends. This type of waterproofing tape has been used on numerous RVs in the past. The majority of it is mine. Normally, when installing trim, one applies tape to the trim, then pulls the tape away from the trim, separating the layers on the roll, presses it into place, and secures it with screws. I couldn't get the separator tape to let go of the trim strip tape. It adhered to the tape in the same way that it adhered to the RV's fiberglass. Getting the trim clean in the first place seemed to take an eternity. It's now adhered to both the trim and the separator tape once more. Using the word "angry" as a source word is not a good idea. I have no idea where the issue began. Most likely, a batch of the incorrect type of separator tape was produced by a manufacturer. My advice to anyone buying this tape from this supplier is to be cautious because no one knows how long the production run was, and if that is the problem, there could be hundreds of rolls available. I'm going to drive the distance to CAMPING WORLD to get some more, but I'm going to double-check the product before I leave.
USE BUTYL TAPE INSTEAD OF SILICONE CAULK. Caulk dries out and cracks; butyl tape, on the other hand, stays flexible for decades. On my sailboat, I discovered what I believe to be original 1971 butyl tape inside a window frame that looked just as new as the brand new stuff I bought. Also, unlike caulk, butyl tape is much easier to clean up. br>br>On my sailboat, I used it to re-energize. Bed windows, lifeline stantions, and deck hardware are all examples of this. When it comes to windows, you should use butyl tape all the way around (there are plenty of videos online that show how to do it correctly). Simply clean the parts and the location on the boat where they will be installed, insert the screws/bolts through the hardware, and wrap a ring of butyl tape around the area where the screw/bolt enters the hardware. After that, secure it in place by tightening the screws. If you start by making the hole's top edge a little bigger, you'll reduce the chances of your gel coat cracking when it flexes under stress. Regardless, I used almost the entire roll while working on my boat and purchased a second one because no boat should be without it, and it stays fresh in a ziplock for years (unlike caulk). Remember to avoid caulk. br>br> When you finally decide to use butyl tape, it will leak, and cleaning it up will be a nightmare.
That was a huge blunder - It ended up being a complete disaster. There are two significant issues: 1) Every 1 1/2" inches, the putty ribbon was pressed onto the backing and adhered tightly. I was unable to work with a putty ribbon. 2) There is a very thin backing. It would tear every few inches and separate, with the paper in the middle firmly attached. All of this necessitated me only separating a few inches at a time and then pressing the glob of putty into the sealed area. The low-quality paper and clumsy shipping add hours and hours to the workload. It's a complete disaster! The putty itself appeared to be of good quality. The remainder of the product was a complete disaster.
My roof (40' x 26') is made of polycarbonate panels that leak like a sieve. The home improvement store strategically placed the wrong size screws next to the panels, which is why it leaks. The EPDM rubber washers are far too small, and the screws are too short to bite into the wood purlins. The capillary action of water being sucked upwards between the horizontal and vertical overlapped portions of the panels is another reason why the roof leaks. br>br>The leaking has gotten so bad that I go up to investigate any screw that isn't leaking water. br>br>As a result, I'm replacing all 1400 screws and taping over all overlaps with butyl tape. I'm only halfway through, but it appears to be working. I believe I'll need 24 rolls of this stuff, so with the cost of beefier screws, I'm looking at an $800 repair job, not including my time. Even so, this repair will be less expensive than replacing the roof with metal.
When I was installing a slide topper awning on my travel trailer, I used this tape to hide a few brackets. This tape isn't like any other I've used in the past. The first issue I had was with the tape's edges as it came off the roll, which were wavy and irregular. This made attaching it to the awning's 20-foot aluminum track difficult. The second issue I had was that the tape oozed out from behind the brackets a lot more than other tapes I'd used before, to the point where I had to trim it to get a razor blade in. We'll see how it holds up over time, but the installation process is not particularly user-friendly.
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