Yukon Gear & Axle (YK M20) Master Overhaul Kit for AMC Model 20 Differential
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Questions & Answers
Both high and low pinion Dana 30s axles are compatible with this setup.
If you're in possession of the number eight, Yes, if you have 25 IFS in your Denali. It makes no difference what gear ratio you use. These distinctions are a source of contention. Yes, the pre-inspection instructions must be followed. The bearings are under a tremendous amount of load.
Only a portion of it, not the entire kit, will work. There are differences in the bearings.
H2 rear diff will not fit; an 8-lug rear differential should be replaced with a 10-lug rear differential. You'll require a 5-ring gear set.
Selected User Reviews For Yukon Gear & Axle (YK M20) Master Overhaul Kit for AMC Model 20 Differential
Four out of five stars for being a fantastic product, with a - 1 star for the difficulty in determining which kit to purchase. Larger carrier bearings are required if you have an aftermarket positraction carrier. LM102949 bearings and LM102911 races (pre-assembled) are both required. LM603049 bearings and LM603012 races (1999 GM), or LM603049 bearings and LM603012 races (2000 GM). If there was a reference somewhere, that would be great. YKGM8. br>br> Timken LM102949 bearings and LM102911 races are included in 5HD, as are Koyo pinion bearings and races. If your car is 99 years old or older, you should get this. YKGM8. br>br> Timken LM603049 bearings and LM603012 races are included in A, as are Timken pinion bearings and races. If your GM vehicle was manufactured between 2000 and 2008, this is the product for you. br>br>Get the YKGM8 if you have a newer GM than that.
Yukon has a well-deserved reputation for being a high-quality destination. For years, I've relied on these kits and have never been disappointed. They include everything you'll need for a standard differential regear or rebuild. It would be nice if they included the better carrier shims they sell, which don't require you to pound a stack of thin shims into the back of the carrier bearing when setting preload. The good shims have two thick outer shims that interlock with the thinner shims in between them and perform admirably. I always get them for any rear axle that has shims outside the bearing races. If you don't have a pinion depth tool and have to run the setup several times to find proper pinion depth, a little more marking compound would be beneficial. Finally, better packaging would be appreciated; the bearings, for example, are almost always loose in the box when I receive them because they are too heavy to be held in place by plastic over cardboard alone. Nothing is ever lost or damaged, so it's a minor issue, but it's because of these minor annoyances and issues that I gave it a 4 instead of a 5 star rating. To be honest, it's far superior to any other similar kit you'll find. I'll add that, depending on how you're setting up the gears and what tools you have, setup bearings can be very useful; I simply get an extra set of cones and grind the ID out with a carbide cutter until they slip fit. Because most pinion bearings are essentially blind pressed, this prevents you from damaging a bearing while attempting to remove it if the shim under it isn't correct. I usually cut off the cage and slot the inner race before splitting it with a cold chisel if they need to be removed. Here are a few pointers for those who are new to this.
Kit possessed a wide range of abilities. The original crush spacer was not the same as this one. I couldn't get the shim to crush when I was trying to set the pinion. It wouldn't crush even when I put it in my 12 ton press. Manufacture has a problem that needs to be solved. If you buy this kit, I recommend getting crush shims from someone else, or your vehicle will be stuck on blocks for 5 days like mine was.
If I had a ten-star rating, I would give it to this product. br>The bearing numbers are identical to the OEM's, and the bearing brand is Timken/Torrington. The extra crush sleeve is reassuring, and the instructions are extremely thorough. br>What really impressed me was Yukon's decision to make their pinion nut washer slightly thinner than OEM, and the nut itself slightly longer, giving you a few extra threads. It may be a minor enhancement, but it is this type of thinking that distinguishes Yukon as a leading brand.
I decided it needed to be rebuilt, so I called the local Chevrolet dealership for a quote, which came to $2400. They said it would cost at least $2,000 depending on what they found, so I decided to do it myself because I could get all new bearings, carrier group, ring and pinion, seals, gear lube, and all the tools I needed for under $2400. 00, and I followed through on it. Everything I needed to rebuild my rear end was included in this master rebuild kit, and it was all of excellent quality. It's a must-have for anyone attempting a rear-end rebuild.
Before installing, the manufacturer recommends crushing it down in a press to just over spec. That worked on my other truck before, but my 12 ton press refused to crush it this time. So I ground it down a bit, calipered it, and put it together. I disassembled it and ground it some more, and so on, until it was just right.
Bolts were incorrect, and the crush sleeve was incorrect. If I were you, I would just buy the parts separately because the chances of getting everything you need in this kit are slim to none. br>br>UPDATE: br>br> After 300 miles, the pinion seal completely failed, dumping all of the gear oil it had in under a minute. I'm just glad I caught it early; if it had happened on the highway, my entire differential would have been destroyed, not to mention the fact that I now need to purchase a new seal, crush washer, and oil. br>br>This is the worst review I've ever written, and boy do I wish it could be worse, a 10/10 bad experience.
It's quite pricey and claims to include everything you'll need to rebuild your ring and pinion, but it's not true. br>I'm missing one retainer bolt for the Ring gear, so I had to use one of the old "One Time Use" bolts, which I didn't like. Next, both of the case bearings are too small, so I had to replace them both. To top it off, the rear race bearing is 2,000th of a millimeter too small. This company should be avoided at all costs. Unless they make things right, I will never buy from them again. br>br>I'm going to report this seller to Amazon for selling junk!.