Powerbuilt 940536 Spindle Remover
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It's almost certain. The F250 has a 10-inch spindle. 10 if you're 25 or older Since the early 1980s, the 5 axle configuration has remained unchanged. I'm pretty sure it'll work for my previous ten. 25 spindles is a good number.
No, it doesn't appear to fit a Ford/ keep looking. I have a Dana 70, and you'll need to know what axle you have as well.
Maybe. You'll need to take the axle out and measure the nut's diameter.
I'm not sure about the 2011 duallies, but if you're just replacing the rear rotors and pads, you shouldn't need this. On my SRW 2004 f-, I have a 250 I used this to unscrew the spindle nut from the hub's inside. So you'll need this socket or something similar to replace or repack bearings.
Selected User Reviews For Powerbuilt 940536 Spindle Remover
This is an excellent tool that is both necessary and useful. I had no issues bending tabs or anything like that. ***REMEMBER*** On a Super Duty (and many other vehicles), the driver's side spindle nut is REVERSE THREADED! If you tighten when you should be loosening, the tabs will definitely bend. If you're lucky, you might be able to get away with it. If you're unlucky, your axle threads will be ruined and/or the spindle nut will be destroyed, and you'll curse the day you were born.
5 SPINDLE NUTS FROM AAM. The Dodge drw 11 will be able to use this. With a slight modification, 5aam rear end spindle nuts are used. It only took me 5 minutes to grind down the inner parts of the studs as well as the left side of each one with a Dremel and a cut off wheel, and then take a look at the pictures! It's a better deal than paying $190 for one! It is available for purchase and modification.
This was installed in my 2007 LBZ 2500 duramax. Because it didn't fit, I had to grind the insides of my teeth down to make it fit. Others had used it for theirs, according to what I had read. I'm not sure if it was because my part was too small or because it wasn't designed for it. However, it only took one minute to complete and was very effective.
I had to do some filing to get it to fit the half moon shaped cutouts found in most 14 bolt spindle nuts, but it wasn't too difficult to do so because it wasn't heat treated. I don't think the lack of heat treatment is an issue because these are only used to set the bearing preload when installing the hub. br>br>Some square lugged sockets will work, but they have undersized square lugs and thus fit sloppily. This isn't one of them, by the way.
It would not budge with a sledge hammer, but 10 minutes with this did. Get the right tool for the job, and you'll be glad you did. With thick walls and a nice finish, this socket is well made. My Dana 44 used the middle of the three thread sizes, but any slide hammer with 5/8th inch threads on its shaft should work.
I had to remove some rusted crusty northern rust belt spindles from a 1997 Ford F350 front axle. This fit my 5/8 slide hammer perfectly and threaded perfectly on the 2" spindles. The spindle was broken free and out of the knuckle in about 15 minutes per side. There was no damage to the threads, and I wasn't being gentle with the tool. Get yourself a 10lb slide hammer to go with it; I used a 5lb and my hands were still hurting days later from all the hammering. Overall, excellent value for money; it paid for itself in just one job.
For your 4x4 toolkit, this is a must-have item! My Spline Nuts had been abused by the previous owner, who had cut off the corners on all four indents with a chisel or screwdriver. I was still able to remove the nuts with this tool; the "teeth" are long enough to grab whatever is left of the nut if you have the same problem as I did. In my 1987 Ford Bronco 5, I used it to replace the spindle nuts. Dana 44 front ends on a 0 XLT. I was able to achieve the required 200 ft-lbs of torque on the outer nut. lbs. I'd rather you buy the tool than spend $60 on a new set of nuts, which is exactly what I had to do!.
The first one I bought worked fine, but I couldn't get nearly enough torque on the nut with it. No matter how hard I braced against the tire, it kept slipping out; I got close, but it wasn't up to spec. I believe that if the "teeth" were just a smidge longer, perhaps even 1mm longer, it would have helped with the slight wobble I experienced as I cranked to keep them seated in the nut. That may be a novice's opinion, but that has been my experience.
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