Permatex 80037 Valve Grinding Compound, 3 oz. , White
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The 3 oz. bottle's back. The following is taken from the tube package (80037): br>br>NOTE: if you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, this is the place to be The valve grinding compound comes in four grit sizes in one application: 220, 180, 150, and 120 are the four numbers that make up the numbers 220, 180, and 150, respectively It begins with a coarse 120 grit and grinds down to a fine 220 grit. Add a few drops of water to thin the compound out.
A single 36-ounce tube was purchased. It's 12 3 oz tubes, I'm guessing. I'm still trying to figure out what the "grit rating" is. Like the size tag on hats and shoes, you'd think it'd be self-evident. I bought this on a whim to sharpen a reel lawn mower after reading several positive reviews from people who had done the same thing and said it worked great. So I figured I didn't need to know the exact grit size, though knowing the exact grit size for more precise work, such as valves, may be more important.
Silicon Carbide is a material that is made up of silicon and
I've re-purposed a rotating-head electric razor. Sharpened using 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (available on Amazon), rather than Permatex VGC. To adhere the paper, wet it and lay it flat. The edge was restored with light pressure and a circular motion for about two minutes each.
Selected User Reviews For Permatex 80037 Valve Grinding Compound, 3 oz. , White
drive the screws One day, a fellow mechanic showed me how to remove screws with partially stripped drives, and it proved to be extremely useful. Apply only enough valve grinding compound to fill the screw's drive, and get a half-filled drive. Apply as much weight as possible to the screw while slowly turning the ratchet. inch drive ratchet with hex bit holder and bit This method has a 99% success rate in removing worn or damaged drive screws. br>br>I'm not sure how well this product works for valve grinding, but it's a must for my job when it comes to removing screws with damaged drives.
I was looking for a way to sharpen the blades on my mother's old reel mower. Because I'm cheap and don't want to have to cut anything, I'm not going to use a saw. sandpaper to fit- I examined the lapping compound kits as part of the holder system. The blades are cranked by a handle. br>br>However, after doing some research, I discovered that I didn't need the handle. It was as simple as removing the wheel covers and swapping the gears to the opposite wheel. Apply the lapping compound to the blades, tighten the clearance, and push the mower around for a few minutes on the street or driveway. The blades go in reverse when the gears are swapped, which is necessary for sharpening the blades. Reassemble the wheels after swapping gears and cleaning the blades. The blades have been sharpened. br>br>In addition, this tube will most likely last a lifetime of sharpening. In the process, only a small amount of water is used.
It doesn't specify what grit this compound is, but according to Permatex, it starts out as a coarse grit and gets finer as you use it (the larger particles move out of the way). When you lap the valves, you'll notice a difference. With each passing second, the sound becomes less "scratchy. " When you're nearing the end and want a finer finish, don't lift the valve off the seat because the coarser grit will return. If you use a drill to speed up the process, be careful not to remove too much valve material if you aren't paying attention.
The lapping compound should be between 100 and 240 grits, according to the instructions for my push reel lawn mower. In comparison to other lapping compounds I've seen people use on YouTube, this one is not only more expensive, but the grits are higher than the manual suggests, so I bought it. This paste is somewhere between a paste and a liquid, and I use a paint brush to apply it and adjust the blade height so that it can be sharpened. I'm so glad this one works with my push reel lawn mower, even if it's called a valve rather than a lawn mower, LOL:.
When I was replacing the head gasket, I used this to remove some pitting on the valve seats. In fact, I went so far as to correct some erroneous information. Despite the fact that I should have had a shop re-align the valves, I used this stuff. The seats are being ground down. But it was a success, and I've been driving the truck ever since. br>An important point to keep in mind is that When you first open the tube, the compound is very coarse, but it quickly breaks down into a finer consistency when you use it. The packaging mentions the use of various grits but does not specify which one this is. I only used this product and got a satisfactory result.
usage that is not typical I don't sharpen knives, but I do grind valves. This works great for sharpening any blade when rubbed into leather mounted on wood. Cover the entire surface of the leather with the first coat, then work it in. Sharpen after allowing to dry. With each sharpening, a small amount of compound is added. There will eventually be so much compound embedded that you won't need to add any more. br>br>The only drawback is that it can get a little messy if some grit falls off. If you're sharpening at a nice dining room table, a piece of news paper under your sharpening space is appropriate; if you're sharpening in your shop or outside, let it fly.
br>br>It takes a little time to properly hand lap a valve to its seat, so use a bit of snug fitting rubber hose on the tip of the valve stem and rotate back. back and forth between your palms, occasionally opening and closing the valve to let more grinding compound in. br>br>It's a win-win situation for the D. 'er or field Mechanic, vintage engine mechanics, etc. , etc.
- Nate.
I used this to sharpen the blades on a used reel mower I purchased that was in pretty bad shape (what do you expect for $20?). The procedure is a little time-consuming, but it's not difficult if you're handy - You can learn how to do it by watching one of the many videos available on the internet. After brushing on the grinding compound, I turned the reel with a 1/2 inch chuck drill. If you decide to do this, I recommend using a fairly powerful drill. My home- I had a hard time with the owner grade 1/2 inch drill, and I think I was on the verge of destroying it by the time I finished - It became unbearably hot. Maybe I had the cutting knife against which the reel blades cut (and grind) a little too tight? br>br>In any case, this stuff worked great. I ground the reel on top of a crumpled cardboard box, which allowed me to easily clean up any compound that splattered during the process. "There are four grit sizes in one application of the valve grinding compound:" br>br>According to the back of the package, "there are four grit sizes in one application of the valve grinding compound: 220, 180, 150, and 120 are the four numbers that make up the numbers 220, 180, and 150, respectively It begins with a coarse 120 grit and grinds down to a fine 220 grit. "Add a few drops of water to thin the compound. " According to various internet sources, 120 grit seems to be about right for this job. I thinned it out until it resembled cake batter in consistency - perhaps a tad thicker.
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